Why shouldn't I daily a 0w30 oil?

dogunbound

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I was looking at heavy weight alternatives to the stock 0w20 nissan recommends due to occasional track usage. I see some people use 5w30, and that is what I am using right now for track time. I recently stumbled upon a 0w30 that seems perfectly compatible to all of Nissan's requirements for oil specifications. This is on rockauto.

I can't see any downside to running this oil. During the cold days, it should be the same as a zero weight, and once it heats up, it should be a bit thicker. This would allow me to more comfortably let my engine oil sit at 220+ Fahrenheit. This can happen while commuting (maybe I should invest in a bigger oil cooler).

I literally cannot see a downside (other than gas mileage, but who here cares about that if you are getting a twin turbo vehicle). Maybe a loss in power due to the increased friction from the heavier oil? Other than that, I cannot see any other downside.

Anyways, what do ya'll think? Maybe if they ever come out with a 0w40 or 0w50 that is both SP and gf-6a compliant I should use those instead, no? Isn't a wider range multi viscosity oil simply superior to a smaller range viscosity oil?
 

VR30Infection

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The way I understand it is this. When you have a regular oil like SAE 30, it’s a pure 30 weight oil. It’s rated as 30 weight when it is at proper operating temps. Below standard temps it will be thicker due to being colder. A duel weight oil like a 5w 30 will act like a 30 weight when at proper temps however it will act like 0 weight when cold. So if you were to take a 0 weight oil and measure its viscosity when cold, that is what the 0w-30 would be like cold. When warm it will be like a 30 weight. (Hope that’s helps someone)

So, based on my understanding, you will be completely fine. You may see a slight loss of mileage but doubtful you would notice. I’m running Motul 5w-40 which both Z1 suggests, it’s what Nissan sells for the GT-R (from what I understand) and what my tuner suggests for more protection. Just my .02
 

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I’ve seen several videos by engineers that say going up on the second number (the 20) is fine as long as you stick to the first number (0). First number is the base oil weight. 2nd number is a chemical formulation that changes how the oil behaves at high temps.
 

VR30Infection

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Either way you slice it, it flows like a 0 weight when it’s cold and like 30 weight when it’s up to operating temps. The “W” literally stands for winter. The super light weight oils being used are more for mileage than anything else from what I understand. I will give up a fraction of a mpg for engine protection personally. If you look up temp ranges by the manufacturer of each oil, they tell you. I live in an area that doesn’t get super cold but it does hit 100 plus for a while each year. If going up a bit in viscosity was bad for your engine then I would have a lot of trouble throughout my years. I’ve had 0 issues. These engines are great but the one down side is heat. Especially when pushing more boost.
 

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I was looking at heavy weight alternatives to the stock 0w20 nissan recommends due to occasional track usage. I see some people use 5w30, and that is what I am using right now for track time. I recently stumbled upon a 0w30 that seems perfectly compatible to all of Nissan's requirements for oil specifications. This is on rockauto.

I can't see any downside to running this oil. During the cold days, it should be the same as a zero weight, and once it heats up, it should be a bit thicker. This would allow me to more comfortably let my engine oil sit at 220+ Fahrenheit. This can happen while commuting (maybe I should invest in a bigger oil cooler).

I literally cannot see a downside (other than gas mileage, but who here cares about that if you are getting a twin turbo vehicle). Maybe a loss in power due to the increased friction from the heavier oil? Other than that, I cannot see any other downside.

Anyways, what do ya'll think? Maybe if they ever come out with a 0w40 or 0w50 that is both SP and gf-6a compliant I should use those instead, no? Isn't a wider range multi viscosity oil simply superior to a smaller range viscosity oil?
I use 0w 30 Amsoil

IMG_0519.jpeg
 
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dogunbound

dogunbound

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That's pretty dope, but that stuff is 16$ a bottle, whereas the mobile 1 stuff is 7$ a bottle. Idk if I feel like it's worth doing 96$ oil changes when I can do 42$ oil changes.

Also, mobile 1 is already an incredibly reputable brand. I trust their stuff.

Definitely not knocking AMSOIL and I'm certain there are benefits to using it over other brands, so don't take it as me dissing your oil choice :p. I think as long as you pick a non-generic oil brand unlike supertech or oreilly stuff you are going to be fine in the long run.
 

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I think 0W-30 is fine as long as it’s API SP ILSAC GF-6A, as the manual states. SP is important on this engine.

On an old truck engine I’ll use what I think is appropriate. On an engine like this 3.0 I wouldn’t use higher than the 0W or 30. Pumps, galleries, etc. are designed for 0W on this engine. There are others like the VQ V6 or many other engines with legacy pasts that you can play around. I wouldn’t on this one unless you took a really good look at viscosities of 0W and 5W at various temps and you know for certain the 5W would never exceed the viscosity of 0W in colder climates.
 

BigBlue

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I was looking at heavy weight alternatives to the stock 0w20 nissan recommends due to occasional track usage. I see some people use 5w30, and that is what I am using right now for track time. I recently stumbled upon a 0w30 that seems perfectly compatible to all of Nissan's requirements for oil specifications. This is on rockauto.

I can't see any downside to running this oil. During the cold days, it should be the same as a zero weight, and once it heats up, it should be a bit thicker. This would allow me to more comfortably let my engine oil sit at 220+ Fahrenheit. This can happen while commuting (maybe I should invest in a bigger oil cooler).

I literally cannot see a downside (other than gas mileage, but who here cares about that if you are getting a twin turbo vehicle). Maybe a loss in power due to the increased friction from the heavier oil? Other than that, I cannot see any other downside.

Anyways, what do ya'll think? Maybe if they ever come out with a 0w40 or 0w50 that is both SP and gf-6a compliant I should use those instead, no? Isn't a wider range multi viscosity oil simply superior to a smaller range viscosity oil?
Been using M1 0-30 AFE in all my cars. Did a oil sample on the Z with 6k on the oil. First, keep in mind this oil intentionally shears down to a 20wt. The report showed it at the minimal number for a 20wt. That's fine for my other cars that are NA. Now I'm running the M1 5-30EP with no reportable difference in MPG.
 
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dogunbound

dogunbound

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Been using M1 0-30 AFE in all my cars. Did a oil sample on the Z with 6k on the oil. First, keep in mind this oil intentionally shears down to a 20wt. The report showed it at the minimal number for a 20wt. That's fine for my other cars that are NA. Now I'm running the M1 5-30EP with no reportable difference in MPG.
How do you find the shearing information on an oil?
 

BigBlue

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How do you find the shearing information on an oil?
My info comes from many years of being on the site "bobistheoilguy". The short version would be calling M1's customer support. The whole AFE M1 line is designed to improve MPG. The only way that can happen is for it to shear down by design and or spec it to the lower side of said viscosity.
 
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dogunbound

dogunbound

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My info comes from many years of being on the site "bobistheoilguy". The short version would be calling M1's customer support. The whole AFE M1 line is designed to improve MPG. The only way that can happen is for it to shear down by design and or spec it to the lower side of said viscosity.
Hmmm, maybe amsoil will be my goto oil then. Do you know a 0w-30 that doesn't shear down by design?
 

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Hmmm, maybe amsoil will be my goto oil then. Do you know a 0w-30 that doesn't shear down by design?
Just be careful with products that say stuff like “compatible with API SP” but then it has no API starburst symbol showing it passed and was certified with API. This is if you care about your warranty.

I love Redline. Not the API stuff for warranties, but the original Group V stuff originally designed for turbines. However, I don’t use it on cars with a warranty.

Just look for the starburst API symbol if you’re worried about your warranty. It’s required if it comes down to documenting your oil changes were correct.
 
 






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