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Does anyone know if it's possible to scope the intake valves instead of having to pull the intake.

Does the Diff cooler use a pump to circulate the lube

The top one complements the car

I've read the same thing. Even had a tuner from one of the highest regarded Z shops tell me, Just disconnect it, nothing else to do. Now I read that it throws a light which requires going into the ECU to turn off.

I'll stand corrected but due to the 91 fuel it has to pull more timing which makes any engine run hotter. With 93 fuel the only time I see elevated temps is under hard multiple pulls.

Can't help on the octane booster other than to be really careful what you put in there. If memory serves you've only got 91 fuel where you're at. If so, your down around 30HP. I had to run 91 in my car for about 200 miles. I only had to lean on it once to realize the power loss. If you have E85...

Mine talks to me when I get in and out of it. I think it's telling me to lose weight. It also makes that funky noise when the window goes up and down to clear the weather strip. Awhile back I did have a whining noise, but a divorce fixed that one.

Gentlemen, Just keeping it real. Empirical data ie UOA report shows it shearing out of the minimum 8.8 to 8.2 in reference to the CST Viscosity @ 100C for a 30wt. Otherwise, it ain't a 30wt anymore when it gets some time on it. To keep things even steven, that report only showed 1% fuel...

Read the thread

Check for Z used parts on E gay

A 5-30 is good down to -20F.

Research on how to check your rotor run out. If it's bad enough you can eyeball it

Thanks for the tip. I knew there was a reason I bought one

Stealerships should only be used for warranty/recall service. I've worked at 4 of them. Their not even to be trusted with an oil change. Of course not all of them are like that. If you buy enough cars from them they'll treat you like a king.

And I thought it was just me feeling that. When I select vent/floor the floor air is always warmer. It's not bad enough that I'm going to let those clowns tear into it.

I didn't know that, thanks for the heads up. So if the light was on all the time how would you know if you threw a code.

Good Advice. Even though the oil I recommend does not show an API rating, it in fact exceeds all of said ratings. For documenting purposes you can refer to this on the M1 site for this oil's specs.

M1 0-30 ESP.

My info comes from many years of being on the site "bobistheoilguy". The short version would be calling M1's customer support. The whole AFE M1 line is designed to improve MPG. The only way that can happen is for it to shear down by design and or spec it to the lower side of said viscosity.

I did Sir. I can tell you the double sided tape that's used is no joke. Getting that stuff off was the longest part of the swap.