The Z1 Toe bolt kit is a literal scam.

[OptionZero]

Before they tried this, I mentioned that nowhere on their product listing did it say it will or won't clear '3 exhausts.

Then I added they can now put this caveat on their listing. They said ok. Full refund + ship.

BUT it is true. Now they can.

they paid for return shipping on an exhaust? Im shocked

 

[el mágico]

they paid for return shipping on an exhaust? Im shocked

No. The diff brace.

 

[OptionZero]

No. The diff brace.

ah

 

[Thefunk]

These aren't the toe/camber lockout bolts right? Mine fit perfectly and was able to achieve alignment. But I agree with the general sentiment towards Z1. I only buy stuff from them if/when needed like their upgraded intercooler water pump. I've bought plenty before but I started looking elsewhere.

 

[OptionZero]

These aren't the toe/camber lockout bolts right? Mine fit perfectly and was able to achieve alignment. But I agree with the general sentiment towards Z1. I only buy stuff from them if/when needed like their upgraded intercooler water pump. I've bought plenty before but I started looking elsewhere.

lockout bolts are different. They aren't supposed to move, they are supposed to be fixed because you have added adjustable arms elsewhere that can change length

"upgraded" eccentric bolts are supposed to be able to spin and theoretically offer a greater range of adjustment

OP is talking about eccentric bolts

 

[dogunbound]

Yea my default impression of Z1 motorsports is to avoid their inhouse products unless it's the only ones available. I do buy stuff off their site, but it's usually the stuff other companies have engineered like SPL.

I did get their inhouse dust shield with 2.5" NACA ducting but, cmon. How can you fuck that up lol. Again, this is the only thing I saw on the internet for a dust shield with a prefabed 2.5" hole.

 

[Thefunk]

Yea my default impression of Z1 motorsports is to avoid their inhouse products unless it's the only ones available. I do buy stuff off their site, but it's usually the stuff other companies have engineered like SPL.

I did get their inhouse dust shield with 2.5" NACA ducting but, cmon. How can you fuck that up lol. Again, this is the only thing I saw on the internet for a dust shield with a prefabed 2.5" hole.

So far their poly bushing arms in the rear are good. Their catch can is good, aluminum oil pan (with the exception of easily sheered threads at 25ft/lbs) good. They did send a replacement for free. Also their trans and diff braces are good. 2pc rotors and braided lines have been good.

 

[beergeek]

SPC in Z1 template, still doesn't use the full 1/4 inch Z1 wants you to grind but much closer:

Do you have the part number for the SPC bolts?
Is it SPC 72265?
The ones for a 370?

 

[Drago86]

Do you have the part number for the SPC bolts?
Is it SPC 72265?
The ones for a 370?

Yes this was spc 72265 that offered real expanded adjustment. Almost any suspension part for the 370z will fit the z theyre identical underneath sans some brake line bracket differences.


The Voodoo camber arms are also listed for the 370 and are awesome. They do have double adjusters and are fully adjustable on the car. They do use jam nuts though, unlike the spc pinch/clamp solution. I did have the alighnmet guy lock tite them just in case.

Here is the alignment I ended up with with just the vodoo13 camber arms and the stock toe bolts(because my discovery about the z1 bolts cause me to NOT install them):

Done by Auto Innovations in Milpitas which I HIGHLY reccomend if you need a alignment in the bay area. They specialized in performance cars, take their time to dial it in perfectly and will align to your spec. They also do corner weighting and other services.

Again I requested the out of spec 1/32 rear toe in, which is why it's still red, and dont have fucas for the front camber (and acrually think the car needs more front camber).

 

[Drago86]

lockout bolts are different. They aren't supposed to move, they are supposed to be fixed because you have added adjustable arms elsewhere that can change length

"upgraded" eccentric bolts are supposed to be able to spin and theoretically offer a greater range of adjustment

OP is talking about eccentric bolts

I did use the Z1 lockout bolts for the Voodoo13 camber arm install and they were fine. I actually liked the fact that they were offset so you could tune the arm length slightly.



Here's a pic of the excellent Vodoo13 arms after I installed rod end boots and seals (didn't come with the arms):

 

[trajiiic]

I too thought Z1 was GTG based on my friend's word from his 350Z days. I guess I'll look somewhere else for a catch can.

 

[OptionZero]

I too thought Z1 was GTG based on my friend's word from his 350Z days. I guess I'll look somewhere else for a catch can.

Radium stuff is recommended. Wierdly, they have catch cans listed for Z34 but not RZ34. They have universal kits you can buy if you want to fab mounting points with your own lines

https://www.radiumauto.com/products/dual-catch-can-kit-nissan-370z-g37

 

[el mágico]

I too thought Z1 was GTG based on my friend's word from his 350Z days. I guess I'll look somewhere else for a catch can.

Mishimoto

 

[KrackaC8]

I do appreciate their isntall videos though

I too thought Z1 was GTG based on my friend's word from his 350Z days. I guess I'll look somewhere else for a catch can.

2nd for Mishimoto

 

[NorthSaltJake]

Throwing around the word "scam" and trying to ruin a brand's reputation because of a botched driveway install is ridiculous.

OP, your own photos prove you misunderstood how the eccentric bolts and the templates work.

• The Template: You are holding the bolt against one side of the template and call the remaining gap "wasted metal". That gap is the exact space required for the bolt to travel. When you rotate the eccentric washer 180 degrees, the bolt shank needs that empty space to slide to the opposite edge. The template marks the total necessary width of the subframe slot to allow full lateral movement. It is not supposed to match the static diameter of the bolt.
• The 1mm Offset: You are questioning a ~1mm difference in washer offset. A 1mm increase at the inboard pivot point translates to a massive camber and toe degree change out at the wheel hub. In suspension geometry, fractions of a millimeter matter.
• Spinning without grinding: If you put the bolt into the subframe without grinding and it "fully rotates", you are not getting the full adjustment. The bolt shank is just hitting the factory slot walls and stopping. If you can still twist it, you are just flexing the control arm bushing with your wrench instead of actually moving the arm.

To top it off, you admitted later in the thread that you didn't even need the adjustment because your car is not low enough. You are buying suspension parts you do not need for a sub-1-inch drop, failing to understand how they physically work, and then claiming scam when you misinterpret the installation.

The same logic applies to others in this thread complaining that diff braces or chassis components do not clear oversized aftermarket exhausts. Vendors cannot account for every random pipe you bolt under the car. That is just a lack of common sense.

I run a lot of Z1 parts on my car. The only issue I ever had was with their coilovers, and it turned out to be my own fault for misunderstanding how to preload the rears. After a simple adjustment, the issue was completely resolved.

If you are going to accuse a major vendor of running a literal scam, bring hard data from an alignment rack after proper installation.