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LOL. You think you're being clever, but moving goalposts to "entry-level suspension parts" just proves you can't argue the actual mechanics of an oil pan. Aluminum doesn’t magically warp three weeks after an install. You guys are so desperate to circlejerk about Z1 that you’ll ignore reality...

Calling Z1 "lowest bidder" hardware while unironically raving about a Dorman pan is wild. Dorman is literally the definition of budget, auto-parts-store replacement grade. Kludos even pointed out his CZP pan leaked at first until he actually seated the gasket right and torqued it down. It's a...

Installed some chassis bracing and took it out for a morning canyon run.

What you presented is not evidence of anything since you never installed the part correctly to prove your claim. Suspension geometry is measured on an alignment rack, not by holding parts between your fingers and making assumptions. Deflecting to a 10 year old G37 forum thread about a...

You are overthinking the template. The template provides extra clearance on purpose. If Z1 only asked you to grind exactly 2mm, half the people using a die grinder in their driveway would under-grind it, causing the bolt to bind against the frame at full lock. Over-grinding the slot hurts...

"I'm not going to grind my subframe 6+mm..." You literally admit you refuse to do the required modification for the part to function. Why would you expect a product to work as intended when you actively refuse to install it correctly? You bought these bolts strictly because "the forum...

Throwing around the word "scam" and trying to ruin a brand's reputation because of a botched driveway install is ridiculous. OP, your own photos prove you misunderstood how the eccentric bolts and the templates work. The Template: You are holding the bolt against one side of the template and...

Spot on. The 5-cylinder sound is incredible, and the new rear torque splitter definitely helps rotate the chassis to fix that old understeer issue. The fact that they offer two completely different driving experiences is why I chose the RS3 to go along with the Z. Living in Northern Utah, I...

Yeah, 7 speed DCT

Only got to drive it home last night but its special. The way it grips is a completely different driving experience to the Z. I traded in my Tacoma that I didn't drive. I think the RS3 would be a big upgrade from an IS350.

Added a new garage mate for my Z, 2026 Audi RS3. Insane little car.

That’s a solid tool for simple build lists. I was working on something similar called Copilot Garage, but with a heavier focus on the actual work. It includes an AI assistant to help with diagnostics/guides, a tracker for your physical tool inventory, and a route planner for drives. I paused...

The delay is likely a mix of the ECU ramping power to protect the drivetrain/traction and the physical time needed for the turbos to spool. In my logs, I see about a 0.5s lag for 'Actual Torque' to catch up; if you’re feeling a full 1.5s, it’s likely heavier torque management or traction control...

That’s the plan eventually, but I need to find a decent local shop first. I want someone reputable with the VR30DDTT to clean up the tune while it's on the dyno, rather than just doing pulls.

Level 1 Z1 tune was solid, but I recently added lower downpipes and a heat exchanger and moved to the Level 2 tune. It took three revisions to finalize, but I am happy with the result. Logs look great, clean timing, no knock, and safe AFR. I am basically maxed out now; pushing further would...

Its intimidating but easy, just take your time. No real pain points with the install itself. The biggest thing that helped me was purchasing a vacuum coolant refill kit. It makes bleeding the system foolproof and saves a ton of hassle with potential air pockets in the system.

Installed B6A resonated lower downpipes and Z1 performance heat exchanger. Waiting on my level 2 map update from Z1.

Used my cordless ratchet and its maximum is only around 35 ft-lbs, so I really didn't expect that to snap it.

Glad to know I'm not alone in snapping that exhaust bolt! I fixed it the same way: drilled it out and used a bolt with a nut. Next, I just need to repair the snapped bolt for the rear chassis brace reinstallation. These Nissan bolts don't like to be torqued.

Step 16 forward in the Z1 instructions covers it, but yeah it’s a little confusing. You set the spring preload, use a second jack to lift the spring into position, then adjust the shock length. I had to extend my rear shocks a lot before everything lined up, but once I did, the clunking was...