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You should be able to adjust the coil over body length to limit the compression travel before it hits the bump stop then. This video is helpful: This is usually the first thing you do when setting up a new set of coilovers.

You're over stock overall diameter in the front and the back, that's probably why it's rubbing. Also if it's only on compression in the front, adjust the shock length so that the bumpstops fully engage before the tire bottoms out in the wheel well.

Took the backroads for a nice leisurely drive home 😁

HAHA, I had this happen with a rental car. I was adjusting the radio and it straight up said "radio controls disabled for x minutes, distracted driving detected" or something similar and all the radio controls stopped working.

Sport automatics get it also instead of the diff temp.

Sweet spec, welcome.

They're technically not supposed to ship non-CARB parts to California, COBB just got caught for this and the "intended for off road use only" didn't save them. The same would be true of tires, tire rack wouldn't legally be able to ship them to a CA address. You'd have to have freinds/family out...

The higher rear rate on the hipermax R's and Nismo ohlins is because when you factor in the rear motion ratio (they're both divorced setups) you end up with less at-the-wheel spring rate in the rear vs the front. Where do you see the Euro Ohlin's having 200n/mm? the site says this when I visit:

It also just feels bad that your new $60,000(+/-) sports car cannot turn right too long/hard with less than half a tank...

You're absolutely correct, the lock-out plate matches his symptoms perfectly and is the likely culprit. I was mainly responding to the "there's nothing to bend" portion because it IS possible (though difficult, depending on platform) to internally damage a transmission from the shift lever...

It's crazy because rolling resistance can be directly tied to tire grip, which effects stopping distances and ability to maintain control of the vehicle in dry or especially wet conditions (two-sided effect, harder tire compound and reduced tread depth to lower rolling resistance both hurt wet...

Is that an extra pump you added in the photo (like the Z1 system)?

Please don't rely on AI for car advice. Just google how to do whatever on a 370z, it's been around forever so there are thousands of videos and we share basically everything but the motor and dash with it:

additional TLDR : Sport trim with 9AT also gets an oil pressure gauge as it replaces the diff temp the LSD models get.

That was all replaced. I think they're talking about this internal shift rods and forks in the transmission being possibly bent by force on the shifter, which is possible, but would probably manifest as difficult/notchy/grinding/popping out of gear when shifting.

If you take the values from Ohlin's website, the rears appear quite different. I wonder if the Japanese is the raw spring rate not corrected for motion ratios and the American one is rate as installed with motion ratios? Or is Z1 trying to translate the Ohlin's EU rates using the motion ratio's...

I'm not sure if the Z1 page's spring rates are correct because the rz34 and z34 kits on Z1 both list nearly double the spring rate that the Ohlins website lists.

Pm'ed

It says that's per piece, unless I'm mistaken, so 2100 for a set....

Is it the MGT1445z with different wheels or a whole new/different garret turbo that bolts on?