The Z1 Toe bolt kit is a literal scam.

[Midz10]

I think everyone here is being harsh on Z1. Out of the dozens of parts they make it's normal they have issues with a few. Do your research before ordering any part. No shop is perfect.

No other company/shop has been releasing this amount of parts for our car like them. Do not push them away from our platform.

 

[OptionZero]

I think everyone here is being harsh on Z1. Out of the dozens of parts they make it's normal they have issues with a few. Do your research before ordering any part. No shop is perfect.

No other company/shop has been releasing this amount of parts for our car like them. Do not push them away from our platform.

They're not making the stuff, let's not give them too much credit

And they've had more than enough screw ups that i'm not inclined to give them any slack , this isn't new information

 

[Midz10]

They're not making the stuff, let's not give them too much credit

This tells me everything I need to know.

To each his own. Have a good day, sir.

 

[Drago86]

Throwing around the word "scam" and trying to ruin a brand's reputation because of a botched driveway install is ridiculous.

OP, your own photos prove you misunderstood how the eccentric bolts and the templates work.

• The Template: You are holding the bolt against one side of the template and call the remaining gap "wasted metal". That gap is the exact space required for the bolt to travel. When you rotate the eccentric washer 180 degrees, the bolt shank needs that empty space to slide to the opposite edge. The template marks the total necessary width of the subframe slot to allow full lateral movement. It is not supposed to match the static diameter of the bolt.
• The 1mm Offset: You are questioning a ~1mm difference in washer offset. A 1mm increase at the inboard pivot point translates to a massive camber and toe degree change out at the wheel hub. In suspension geometry, fractions of a millimeter matter.
• Spinning without grinding: If you put the bolt into the subframe without grinding and it "fully rotates", you are not getting the full adjustment. The bolt shank is just hitting the factory slot walls and stopping. If you can still twist it, you are just flexing the control arm bushing with your wrench instead of actually moving the arm.

To top it off, you admitted later in the thread that you didn't even need the adjustment because your car is not low enough. You are buying suspension parts you do not need for a sub-1-inch drop, failing to understand how they physically work, and then claiming scam when you misinterpret the installation.

The same logic applies to others in this thread complaining that diff braces or chassis components do not clear oversized aftermarket exhausts. Vendors cannot account for every random pipe you bolt under the car. That is just a lack of common sense.

I run a lot of Z1 parts on my car. The only issue I ever had was with their coilovers, and it turned out to be my own fault for misunderstanding how to preload the rears. After a simple adjustment, the issue was completely resolved.

If you are going to accuse a major vendor of running a literal scam, bring hard data from an alignment rack after proper installation.

"The Template:"
- No, YOU don't understand how they work, look again. The bolt in the photo is rotated to one(out of two) of it's fully adjusted (most eccentric) positions, If I rotate it 180 degrees in the opposite direction there is just the same ~1/4th inch (basically the entire z1 template vs stock) "wasted metal" on the opposite side. "not supposed to match the static diameter of the bolt"?? are you serious, the template AND the bolt both us the raised protrusions on the subframe to index, that's literally how the cam bolt works, go look at your car. Also, the SPC bolts work properly so what are you even trying to argue?

I'll post a video rotating the Z1 bolt a full 360 vs the SPC bolt in the Z1 template if that's what you need to understand.

Look at the under car photos again, only the welded side of the z1 bolt BARELY interferes in the stock slot, the non-welded side can fully rotate in the stock slot with the bolt inserted with NO interference. The SPC would not even be close to fully rotating without grinding the slot.

"The 1mm Offset:"
- No, 1 mm is almost nothing, look at the range the stock eccentric bolt travels, more than a half an inch, apply critical thinking, then think about what you just said.

Also I thought you said I was doing it wrong when I got 1mm? hmmm...

"Spinning without grinding:"
- I don't even understand your final point. The eccentric bolt shank IS the pivot the toe arm rotates about, and nothing can cause the "arm bushing to flex allowing more rotation", again, please go look at your subframe and think before you post.


"To top it off,"
I bought them because the forum mentioned they might be needed with coil overs depending on drop and didn't mind having the extra adjustment range. I don't see how this is even relevant, I bought a part that claimed to provide "+/-" 2 degrees more adjustment and they very clearly do not (again, please educated yourself on how they work). I can buy and install any part I want on my car, but I DO expect those parts to deliver what they promised.

Others in this thread are also free to voice any issues they've had. This also about a company that released parts that could have literally killed people because they refused to do any testing or development before drop shipping their chinese crap: Z1 Front Upper Control Arm (race) followup - Page 5 - MyG37

"I run a lot of Z1 parts on my car."

I'm sorry to hear that, good luck.


"If you are going to accuse a major vendor of running a literal scam, bring hard data from an alignment rack after proper installation."

I'm not going to grind my subframe 6+mm for bolts that only travel ~1mm and then pay for another alignment all because you(just you) don't understand how eccentric bolts work.

 

[NorthSaltJake]

"I'm not going to grind my subframe 6+mm..."
You literally admit you refuse to do the required modification for the part to function. Why would you expect a product to work as intended when you actively refuse to install it correctly?

You bought these bolts strictly because "the forum mentioned they might be needed" for your minimal drop, rather than doing five minutes of your own research to see if your specific setup actually required them.

Deciding you do not want to cut your subframe is perfectly fine. But crying SCAM because you blindly followed forum nonsense, bought parts you did not understand, and then refused to follow the installation instructions is absurd. You have zero real world data from an alignment rack to back up your scam claims.

But hey, I am sure a major vendor is running a literal scam. The shops and owners running these exact bolts successfully are clearly all wrong and have no idea what they are talking about. You definitely cracked the case Sherlock.

 

[FSUZ33]

Not saying it’s a scam, but the fact that the hole appears to be only about 1mm further out than the OEM washer is a tad suspect. Maybe their numbers are right when it comes to additional angle adjustment from that approx 1mm, idk. But their template and their pics/vid of the amount you have to grind from the frame are way excessive compared to the eccentricity difference of the washer.

 

[FSUZ33]

"I'm not going to grind my subframe 6+mm..."
You literally admit you refuse to do the required modification for the part to function. Why would you expect a product to work as intended when you actively refuse to install it correctly?

Just on this topic, if the washer is 1 or 2 mm more eccentric it does no good whatsoever to grind more than that from the frame. The washers are captured by two nubs on the frame on both sides of the washer. It doesn’t matter how much larger it is than the adjustment range, you’re still bound by the distance from center the hole on the washer(s).

 

[NorthSaltJake]

Just on this topic, if the washer is 1 or 2 mm more eccentric it does no good whatsoever to grind more than that from the frame. The washers are captured by two nubs on the frame on both sides of the washer. It doesn’t matter how much larger it is than the adjustment range, you’re still bound by the distance from center the hole on the washer(s).

You are overthinking the template.

The template provides extra clearance on purpose. If Z1 only asked you to grind exactly 2mm, half the people using a die grinder in their driveway would under-grind it, causing the bolt to bind against the frame at full lock. Over-grinding the slot hurts nothing. It is just idiot-proof mechanical clearance, not a conspiracy.

Ultimately, these bolts are only needed if you drop the car past stock adjustment limits and don't want to pony up for fully adjustable arms. This whole thread boils down to typical forum nonsense. People overstate what is actually required for a build, then guys blindly buy parts they don't fully understand and complain when modification work is required to install them correctly.

 

[Drago86]

You are overthinking the template.

The template provides extra clearance on purpose. If Z1 only asked you to grind exactly 2mm, half the people using a die grinder in their driveway would under-grind it, causing the bolt to bind against the frame at full lock. Over-grinding the slot hurts nothing. It is just idiot-proof mechanical clearance, not a conspiracy.

Ultimately, these bolts are only needed if you drop the car past stock adjustment limits and don't want to pony up for fully adjustable arms. This whole thread boils down to typical forum nonsense. People overstate what is actually required for a build, then guys blindly buy parts they don't fully understand and complain when modification work is required to install them correctly.

The Z1 template asks you to grind 6 TIMES the amount needed, your explanation makes zero sense.

The SPC bolts claim the exact same extra 2-degree adjustment but are 5X+ more eccentric than the Z1 bolts. Nothing you're saying is grounded in reality.

 

[Drago86]

"I'm not going to grind my subframe 6+mm..."
You literally admit you refuse to do the required modification for the part to function. Why would you expect a product to work as intended when you actively refuse to install it correctly?

You bought these bolts strictly because "the forum mentioned they might be needed" for your minimal drop, rather than doing five minutes of your own research to see if your specific setup actually required them.

Deciding you do not want to cut your subframe is perfectly fine. But crying SCAM because you blindly followed forum nonsense, bought parts you did not understand, and then refused to follow the installation instructions is absurd. You have zero real world data from an alignment rack to back up your scam claims.

But hey, I am sure a major vendor is running a literal scam. The shops and owners running these exact bolts successfully are clearly all wrong and have no idea what they are talking about. You definitely cracked the case Sherlock.

Because I'm not dumb enough to grind my subframe to their template when I can see clearly the bolts don't do what they promised.

Which one of us is blindly following, when I presented evidence (Even if it was too complicated for you to understand) the bolts are trash and you are just parroting Z1 has to be good because big company.


Did you even click that link I sent? They literally almost killed people because they did ZER0 R&D on their products in the past.

 

[NorthSaltJake]

Because I'm not dumb enough to grind my subframe to their template when I can see clearly the bolts don't do what they promised.

Which one of us is blindly following, when I presented evidence (Even if it was too complicated for you to understand) the bolts are trash and you are just parroting Z1 has to be good because big company.


Did you even click that link I sent? They literally almost killed people because they did ZER0 R&D on their products in the past.

What you presented is not evidence of anything since you never installed the part correctly to prove your claim. Suspension geometry is measured on an alignment rack, not by holding parts between your fingers and making assumptions.

Deflecting to a 10 year old G37 forum thread about a completely different component is a pathetic strawman. A handful of decade-old anecdotes is not proof of a company almost killing people.

You are the worst type of customer for a business to deal with. You are completely blind to your own ignorance and determined to trash a brand's reputation online just because you lack basic knowledge and were slightly inconvenienced.

Buying suspension parts you do not need just because you can and someone on a forum told you to is peak cringe ricer behavior. Be better.