Alignment after Lowering Springs - Camber Help

[FSUZ33]

and this is where my mind is a little as well. Keeping the car for the long haul. Getting new arms from front and back to allow more adjustability seems like the move. The harder move is nutting up to afford coilovers to go along with them.

Are you also an aspiring Nerf Swordsman?
Lol...I assume you intended to reply to someone else's post, not my goofy-ass one.

 

[RedWinterZ]

Are you also an aspiring Nerf Swordsman?
Lol...I assume you intended to reply to someone else's post, not my goofy-ass one.

Nah I dig goofy. The point is unaddressed suspension holding the entire car experience back. A half measure is the same and just doing nothing but now getting crap tire wear.

 

[thesilverbullet]

I'll be doing bout 15k a year on the car. It's offically my daily driver other than Dec thru Feb where I'll have the truck.

Depending on the tire, you should be able to get a couple of years out of a set tires with that setup..

 

[RedWinterZ]

Depending on the tire, you should be able to get a couple of years out of a set tires with that setup..

Bit the bullet. Just ordered all the arms and bolts for full adjustable suspension and then figured "heck" and ordered the Nismo Coilovers. Might as well live the JDM life and get the car reasonably functionl.

 

[VR30Infection]

How does BMW get away with -2* front and rear on M cars ? Without excessive tire wire!

 

[OptionZero]

How does BMW get away with -2* front and rear on M cars ? Without excessive tire wire!

because camber doesn't kill tires, toe does
camber causes uneven wear but not necessarily significantly faster wear. I guess if you literally drive straight and never turn, maybe then -2 camber kills you

people know negative camber, within reason, is good, right? its helps your car . . . turn

 

[OptionZero]

Bit the bullet. Just ordered all the arms and bolts for full adjustable suspension and then figured "heck" and ordered the Nismo Coilovers. Might as well live the JDM life and get the car reasonably functionl.

the "Nismo" coilovers you got from Z1, presumably, are rebranded KW's, made in europe, so you don't actually have anything JDM other than the logo

if you got the Z1 arms...check for tightness. Multiple times. good luck!

We coulda talked about this stuff before you spent the money

 

[VR30Infection]

because camber doesn't kill tires, toe does
camber causes uneven wear but not necessarily significantly faster wear. I guess if you literally drive straight and never turn, maybe then -2 camber kills you

people know negative camber, within reason, is good, right? its helps your car . . . turn

Sorry, I was being facetious, and it was a rhetorical question.

 

[Nis Mo Z]

So at 150 miles on the car I had Eibach 1.2 inch springs installed and the very same shop did an alignment. The alignment guy asked me if I would like a sportier alignment that won’t cause excessive tire wear and I told him “sure why not ”. From all the comments from some Nismo owners I thought my tires would be at 5000 miles but take a look how they look at 5,150 miles on the odometer…,

 

[Kludos]

So with stock parts I could get 1.6 deg camber and pretty little toe with an inch of drop in the rear. I've now done adjustable toe and camber arms and I'm at 0.9 comber with 2mm toe and the car has so much more grip. It's night and day better for spirited mountain pass driving.

The front non-adjustable camber is mostly fine unless you're hitting the track, but the bump steer is worth correcting if you're an inch or so lower.

 

[Twinspoolin94]

I will never understand why some people act like coil overs are the only way. If you have good quality shocks, a lowering spring that doesn't drop you to low is perfect for most people on the street. Coil overs are more expensive, typically a PITA to setup, usually low quality unless you spend north of $1500 to $2000 bucks, and the majority of drivers will see no benefit on the street usually the opposite. I have coilovers on both my 3000's and my Evo so I am not saying they should never be considered but they are totally unnecessary for street use. Save you money, buy sway bars, springs, end links, and camber arms.

 

[Drago86]

I will never understand why some people act like coil overs are the only way. If you have good quality shocks, a lowering spring that doesn't drop you to low is perfect for most people on the street. Coil overs are more expensive, typically a PITA to setup, usually low quality unless you spend north of $1500 to $2000 bucks, and the majority of drivers will see no benefit on the street usually the opposite. I have coilovers on both my 3000's and my Evo so I am not saying they should never be considered but they are totally unnecessary for street use. Save you money, buy sway bars, springs, end links, and camber arms.

Probably because unless you have a nismo the stock shocks are underdamped and ultra soft even at stock spring rates.

 

[Twinspoolin94]

Probably because unless you have a nismo the stock shocks are underdamped and ultra soft even at stock spring rates.

But they pair up very nicely with swift springs. Took all the float and body roll out but still comfortable for daily life

 

[VR30Infection]

But they pair up very nicely with swift springs. Took all the float and body roll out but still comfortable for daily life

This is precisely why I stated previously that “need” in this realm is subjective. To me, the need for a better set of dampers was obvious and absolute. People get stuck on the springs and spring rates. Though they are absolutely of importance and can make a difference, the dampers are where the magic is. All coilovers are not created equal by far. On top of that, there is always give and take with every change that’s made.

 

[hipertec]

thats actually not bad. I have Tein Coilovers - about 1.25" drop all around and my front Camber is -2.1 and -1.8, with Toe at 0.02/0.03

Im a bit concerned with my rear camber at -2.8 both and toe at 0.13. And the rears have the Rear Z1 camber arms that the shop said it help "very minimal".