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Never say never

Thanks! Yes, it's the stock gunmetallic colour. It gets an amazing liquid metal look in the right light. Plenty of people make do without a catch can, the benefit is just that the engine runs cleaner.

Great numbers, and props for doing the FDPs yourself - it's a badge of honour. How many cuts did you have on your fingers afterwards?

If you have warranty you don't need a catch can. The engine is designed to work without one with the stock tune. If you decide to tune, then your warranty is gone anyway and you can do some mods that will protect your engine like catch can, heat exchanger, oil solenoid delete, etc...

The worst mod of all, gear knob! TBH it wasn't that bad, just forget about trying to keep the original knob in tact. I put a lot of heat on this thing and tried and tried with the strap wrench, but I couldn't get it to budge without clamping it. Very easy to unclip the centre console...

I want to go with a setup like this for the track but I've been told some 18" wheels won't clear the akebono brakes. How did you know these would clear before you bought them?

Assuming you're going to tune, there are a few items that will keep your VR30 happy. Heat exchanger: The stock unit is tiny making the car susceptible to heat soak. Many people suggest this is THE upgrade to do on your VR30 Oil solenoid delete: prevents oil starvation by making the oil pump...

Just go +22 offset and add a spacer for the rear

I installed the catted FDPs and had no codes. Got a reasonable performance bump on the stock tune too. Obviously, much better now tuned.

You said you were running 275/40 on an 11 inch rim. That would be quite stretched wouldn't it?

I did my first track day and had fun so looking to invest in a square wheel and tyre setup, so wondering what people are going for? There's a thread here https://www.nissanzclub.com/forum/threads/18-x-10-5-square-fitment.8161/ with lots of good info, so I was also considering going 18x10.5 with...

I had the R's but they were too harsh. It's much less hassle to go with a true coil in the rear than doing lowered with divorced and adjustable mid links.

I'm looking to get some track wheels and tyres too. Is 18 inch a better option than 19? There is certainly more tyre choice in 18. Are you on 40 profile too @Maximum_Jars?

My CZP pan leaked a little at first which I think was just not having the gasket perfectly seated when I installed it. I gave the bolts a little more torque and that solved the problem.

Yeah I'm pretty happy with the rear of my car, just looking for a bit more turn in. I'll start with the "hard" front and medium rear and tune from there

I just found the info. Strange that the front bar is softer than stock. Front: Setting Effective Bar Size (mm) % Change vs Previous Setting % Stiffer Than OE Soft - Comfort / low grip 26.5 mm - -19.8% Hard - Maximum roll control 27.5 mm +16.0% -7.0% Rear: Setting Effective Bar Size...

I went with Whiteline, which of the mounting holes are people running? I was surprised that the rear bar was thinner than stock, and the middle hole is approx the same as stock, so it seems only the closest hole would be firmer :confused:

About to track my Z for the first time and can't wait! Thanks for all the great info in this thread. I'll have to sort my brakes out by the sound of things...

Just had this happen to my Z after I disconnected the battery to do some work. I thought I was going crazy at first, glad the reset trick worked!

Also in Aus running 5w40 and the solenoid delete and a GTR filter. I think many of us pushing our VR30s run this setup.