Z getting coilovers- Camber/Toe question

[hipertec]

Getting the Z lowered on coilovers this week- Most likely about 1.5"-2". I heard the rear inner tires will get worn out fast and the front tires too.
What are the parts need to correct some or all of these issues after lowering the Z?

 

[FSUZ33]

Assuming all of your suspension is OEM.

Would like others to chime in, but the general consensus, right or wrong, is that if you drop more than an inch you should replace suspension components, as that's the adjustability limit of the stock suspension and/or safety/performance limit.

I'm currently going through this process now. Ordered the coilovers and have about a month left before they arrive to figure out what I need. I'm only planning to drop 0.75"-1.00", and I'm told the rear OEM will accommodate that, but still researching.

Front: No OEM adjustment for camber or caster, only small adjustment for toe. Will need adjustable front upper camber arms (FUCAs). You can get a adjustable toe arms. Another option, Z1 makes a kit that gives you more adjustability with the OEM toe arm. It comes with new hardware for the eccentric side and a template to widen the slot for the eccentric bolt. With a 1.5"+ drop, you'll also want to get adjustable swaybar end links.

Rear: Pretty sure you'll need everything in the rear. Rear mid-links (for divorced setup) or camber links (for true setup). Toe arms, traction arms and swaybar end links.

You'll also need to consider NVH. I've found many more components with solid ("race") heim joints vs urethane/rubber/? bushings ("street"). 20 years ago I would have dailied an LMP1 Audi prototype, but not anymore. Heim joints do offer a more precise control, but they come at the cost of harshness and noise. I would love to do NISMO FUCAs, but they're solid/heim joint connections, and because my Z is a daily, I'm leaning toward bushed/sprung mounts vs solid/heim joints. For examples, compare the components from SPL vs. Z1's 'street' components.

 

[Drago86]

Dropping the front doesn't change toe, only camber.

Adjustable upper control arms should be all you need in the front.

Dropping the rear changes toe and camber.

The rear depends on if you are true coil over or divorced.

If you are true coil over you can run an adjustable camber and toe arm (toe arm replaced the spring buckets)

If you are divorced you either live with what the stock adjustment can get you, which may leave you with quite a bit of camber at 1.5-2 in drop, or run a camber arm with toe bolts which require grinding the sub frame to expand the stock adjustment track ~1/8th inch.

 

[OptionZero]

You will want SPL Parts adjustable arms or the Nismo version (only thing different is color)

Front upper control arm

Rear Traction Arm
Rear Camber Arm
Rear Toe Arm (if true style) or Mid Link (if OEM divorced style).
Midlink requires 60mm inner diameter springs (which is a common size)

After swapping the arms, alignment will be done using the adjustable joints, rathe than eccentric bolts. Replace those bolts with a lockout kit.

Congratulations - you now have full alignment and height adjustability, your suspension tech will love you, and you can fit any wheel you want

 

[el mágico]

You will want SPL Parts adjustable arms or the Nismo version (only thing different is color)

Front upper control arm

Rear Traction Arm
Rear Camber Arm
Rear Toe Arm (if true style) or Mid Link (if OEM divorced style).
Midlink requires 60mm inner diameter springs (which is a common size)

After swapping the arms, alignment will be done using the adjustable joints, rathe than eccentric bolts. Replace those bolts with a lockout kit.

Congratulations - you now have full alignment and height adjustability, your suspension tech will love you, and you can fit any wheel you want

Now just make a video and walk those of us interested through the purchase of parts, install, and adjustment.

 

[Hernandooo]

Another part I would recommend, High Misalignment Tie Rod Ends. Or tie rod ends to help with bumpsteer.

 

[OptionZero]

Now just make a video and walk those of us interested through the purchase of parts, install, and adjustment.

most of those are unbolting the old stuff and bolting on the new stuff

nobodys doing their own alignment unless they have a rack lying around

you should get all the stuff at once so your suspension Shop only needs to do one alignment

set your height, then set alignment at that height

to be really efficient, do your wheels at the same time but that might be more trial and error to really dial it in

 

[FSUZ33]

The experienced bunch can confirm or deny this, but one other thing I’ve come across when changing springs/coilovers is you should drive around for a little bit (100-200 miles) so the springs can settle, before getting an alignment.

My thought on this is the lower you go, and especially if you change to adjustable suspension components, you should probably get an alignment right after installation, monitor ride height (flat ground to fender) and the more drop you see after a couple hundred miles the more you may want to get a second alignment.

 

[el mágico]

If any one can post a pic of a 1 inch drop or .75 drop, I'd appreciate it. I want to see a visual. Not going low low, just enough to close the gap.

I just want to make sure I do it right.

 

[msquared94]

Check out the thread that was posted on Dec. 27th. Shows pics of the front lowered 1" and rear 3/4"

 

[FSUZ33]

If any one can post a pic of a 1 inch drop or .75 drop, I'd appreciate it. I want to see a visual. Not going low low, just enough to close the gap.

I just want to make sure I do it right.

Hopefully I'll be able to in about 4-5 weeks. Planning for 3/4"-1". Depending on look, may go 3/4 and see if/where it settles.
Ohlins coils and Z1 street FUCAs and sway bar links. From what I'm reading I should be OK alignment wise with just that stuff...not that the sway bar links affect alignment. Just didn't want to strain them with a drop.

 

[el mágico]

Hopefully I'll be able to in about 4-5 weeks. Planning for 3/4"-1". Depending on look, may go 3/4 and see if/where it settles.
Ohlins coils and Z1 street FUCAs and sway bar links. From what I'm reading I should be OK alignment wise with just that stuff...not that the sway bar links affect alignment. Just didn't want to strain them with a drop.

Nice. I'm interested. Follow up if you can or care to.

 

[hipertec]

I'm looking to drop about 1" front and 1.25" in rear. Hopefully alignment won't be way far off and still be a daily driver.

Anyone have this drop setup on their Z and comment on clearance for daily driving and tire wear?

 

[el mágico]

Hopefully I'll be able to in about 4-5 weeks. Planning for 3/4"-1". Depending on look, may go 3/4 and see if/where it settles.
Ohlins coils and Z1 street FUCAs and sway bar links. From what I'm reading I should be OK alignment wise with just that stuff...not that the sway bar links affect alignment. Just didn't want to strain them with a drop.

Thanks for the heads up.

 

[BigBlue]

Question to people who run coilovers with lets say an 1 inch drop. How much does it decrease the suspension travel in the back compared to stock. Since the install and drop has anybody gotten into the bump stops. Not with this car but it's happened to me and other people I've known. Anyone that's experienced it knows how bad it sucks.