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Recently installed Z1 oil pan leaking

DBZinTN

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Went in to garage this morning to find about 1/2 quart of oil on the floor. After jacking and removing most of the Z1 shroud for access, I find my Z1 oil pan leaking at highlighted bolt pattern. Was fine for 3 weeks, first sign of a leak after a spirited drive on a very warm day yesterday. I torqued to recommended spec using recommended pattern, bolts were still tight.

I saw a post saying torquing to recommended Z1 spec can strip threads. I hope I didn't as that be engine block threads?! I lowered for now and threw an oil drain pan underneath as I contemplate a next move. At minimum it seems I should reinstall with a new oil pan gasket. But I'm now 2nd guessing my brand choice. Could there be a warping showing itself in that corner? Not sure if that's possible.

I may be able to get a replacement gasket out of Z1, but really wondering if I should swap for another brand. I did not like the soft hex bolts used to secure the plate (see pic). They felt like they were going to strip as I was torquing to spec.

I found this forum pretty much after I made my mod purchases. Saying that as I see many recommendations for the Dorman pan (thank you KrackaC8), and the CZP looks stellar but is $ 100+ more. The Dorman has sturdy looking 8mm? bolts securing that plate. @KrackaC8 was that plate already installed?

Hoping for suggestions.. what's a good next step? Thanks!

Z1 oil pan leak.webp


Z1.webp
 

KrackaC8

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Oh man, that sucks! I'd bet either warped pan or gasket failure. You can reuse your stock gasket if you still have it, otherwise I'd ask Z1 to send a replacement. To check your pan for warpage you'll have to remove it and lay it face down on a granite counter (or other known flat table). A machine shop can resurface it back to true, but for all that work I'd just request a replacement or refund from Z1.

On to the Dorman, I still think it's the best value on the market since it includes a gasket and magnetic drain plug. That plate you mentioned does come pre-installed. I checked the bolts prior to installation and all 3 were tight.
 
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DBZinTN

DBZinTN

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Oh man, that sucks! I'd bet either warped pan or gasket failure. You can reuse your stock gasket if you still have it, otherwise I'd ask Z1 to send a replacement. To check your pan for warpage you'll have to remove it and lay it face down on a granite counter (or other known flat table). A machine shop can resurface it back to true, but for all that work I'd just request a replacement or refund from Z1.

On to the Dorman, I still think it's the best value on the market since it includes a gasket and magnetic drain plug. That plate you mentioned does come pre-installed. I checked the bolts prior to installation and all 3 were tight.
Thanks Kracka I'm reaching out to Z1 tomorrow. Think it could be an issue with the pan as all was perfect for 200mi, and I did recheck it a few times.
 

KrackaC8

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Here's my Dorman:
1000005111.webp
1000005110.webp
 

Andz

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Went in to garage this morning to find about 1/2 quart of oil on the floor. After jacking and removing most of the Z1 shroud for access, I find my Z1 oil pan leaking at highlighted bolt pattern. Was fine for 3 weeks, first sign of a leak after a spirited drive on a very warm day yesterday. I torqued to recommended spec using recommended pattern, bolts were still tight.

I saw a post saying torquing to recommended Z1 spec can strip threads. I hope I didn't as that be engine block threads?! I lowered for now and threw an oil drain pan underneath as I contemplate a next move. At minimum it seems I should reinstall with a new oil pan gasket. But I'm now 2nd guessing my brand choice. Could there be a warping showing itself in that corner? Not sure if that's possible.

I may be able to get a replacement gasket out of Z1, but really wondering if I should swap for another brand. I did not like the soft hex bolts used to secure the plate (see pic). They felt like they were going to strip as I was torquing to spec.

I found this forum pretty much after I made my mod purchases. Saying that as I see many recommendations for the Dorman pan (thank you KrackaC8), and the CZP looks stellar but is $ 100+ more. The Dorman has sturdy looking 8mm? bolts securing that plate. @KrackaC8 was that plate already installed?

Hoping for suggestions.. what's a good next step? Thanks!

Z1 oil pan leak.webp


Z1.webp
I went with CZP. Less expensive at the time than Z1. 100% satisfied.
 

2Cool

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Dorman was a painless install for me as well. Internal baffle bolts were tight, marked as QC'd and have obvious loctite. Installed with the provided gasket and original bolts, approximated the tightening pattern and guesstimated torque by hand. No leaks.
 

trackratZ

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Z1 Branded Hardware: made especially for the Z enthusiast and manufactured proudly by the lowest bidder.
And promoted heavily in social media ----> sold!! :confused:

Really, not good hearing all the spotty QC with their branded products, thanks to forums like ours!
 

2Cool

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Meant to add the OEM bolts are shoulder bolts. With hand tools you can feel when they bottom out and stop at a snug fit. Honestly would not use a torque wrench myself, the area where the bolt necks down is a fail point and would be a royal PITA to extract.

z oilpan bolt.webp
 

papozalsa

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Not the first time hearing about Z1 products liability. Had issues with more complex components, but this is not good to read about it. I really do not remember when I installed mine, but for sure had put over 500 miles since.
 

NorthSaltJake

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Calling Z1 "lowest bidder" hardware while unironically raving about a Dorman pan is wild. Dorman is literally the definition of budget, auto-parts-store replacement grade.

Kludos even pointed out his CZP pan leaked at first until he actually seated the gasket right and torqued it down. It's a rubber gasket on a machined surface. If it holds for three weeks and then starts seeping after a hard, hot drive, it's almost always a seating, shifting, or torque issue, not a "warped pan" or "spotty QC." But as expected, this forum jumps straight to the usual Z1 circlejerk instead of looking at the install.
 
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DBZinTN

DBZinTN

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Meant to add the OEM bolts are shoulder bolts. With hand tools you can feel when they bottom out and stop at a snug fit. Honestly would not use a torque wrench myself, the area where the bolt necks down is a fail point and would be a royal PITA to extract.
Thanks, a 3 step torquing process seems a bit much (per a few MFR instructions).
Calling Z1 "lowest bidder" hardware while unironically raving about a Dorman pan is wild. Dorman is literally the definition of budget, auto-parts-store replacement grade.

Kludos even pointed out his CZP pan leaked at first until he actually seated the gasket right and torqued it down. It's a rubber gasket on a machined surface. If it holds for three weeks and then starts seeping after a hard, hot drive, it's almost always a seating, shifting, or torque issue, not a "warped pan" or "spotty QC." But as expected, this forum jumps straight to the usual Z1 circlejerk instead of looking at the install.
Calling Z1 "lowest bidder" hardware while unironically raving about a Dorman pan is wild. Dorman is literally the definition of budget, auto-parts-store replacement grade.

Kludos even pointed out his CZP pan leaked at first until he actually seated the gasket right and torqued it down. It's a rubber gasket on a machined surface. If it holds for three weeks and then starts seeping after a hard, hot drive, it's almost always a seating, shifting, or torque issue, not a "warped pan" or "spotty QC." But as expected, this forum jumps straight to the usual Z1 circlejerk instead of looking at the install.
Agreed. While I believe I used best practices on install, could be the install. I'll be removing this weekend and will update.
 

haohmaru

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I ordered a Z1 pan a couple months ago and haven't installed it yet. I just checked and it didn't come with new bolts. It looks like it will accommodate the OEM shoulder bolts.
 
 






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