Ohlins Coilover Setup

[OptionZero]

99% of that was marketing mumbo jumbo

the relevant parts I took out of that was Swift springs instead of "standard", and some "race" oil over "standard" (which you will 100% not notice at all)

Additionally I would talk to them about:
- you're planning on SPL parts upgrades which required a 60mm inner diameter. These are available from Swift so getting them SHOULD be zero isue

- how much does it cost to rebuild? One advantage of Sakebomb is that they're located in the US so shipping is relatively easy. For street driving, they should last for years, but ask about service intervals

- related to above - if you're uhappy with the ride, i assume they can rebuild a soft/harder setup (it's just time and money, right)

- this is a a bigger point maybe - does their setup have thrust BEARINGS or thrust washers

Here's a small detour:
Across multiple platforms (S-chassis, SXE chassis, z-chassis), i inevitably read about peoples coilovers making a "popping" or "creaking" sound

This is from the spring rotating under compression and grinding against the metal perch it sits on. Cheap coilovers do not account for this metal on metal friction which creates noise.

The solutions are relatively simple. You can use a thrust WASHER (just a coupla appropriately sized washers in metal or plastic) that reduce friction and make for a smoother rotation) or a thrust BEARING (lots of little rollers to help rotation), or a built in rotating bearing in the coilover itself

Sakebomb and Ohlins knows what they are. Just make sure you're getting them in that setup so you dont getting any wierd noises. It doesn't really affect performance. Its a livability thing.

 

[FSUZ33]

At this point I've decided to hold off on arms/links for two reasons.
If I can get back to acceptable specs in all areas without changing anything, that's less money spent on the front end. Also, I'll know how coilovers alone affect the vehicle, and whether things feel too compliant or teoo stiff, etc. If I change some/all arms/links I won't know if the changes, good and bad, are coilovers, arms/links, or both.
Although...ANYTHING could change by the time I'm sliding the jack under the car. Well, the coilovers won't, but anything other than those could change.

We didn't talk about cost or time to rebuild, but he said under normal conditions for a daily 60K mile rebuild.

Softer/harder, yes. I'm back and forth about 14K on the front. I'm going to trust them and roll with that...already rolled with it, technically. Revalve for spring differences is in the back of my mind, if needed. I'm searching for a setup I'm comfortable with, not just slapping them on and dealing with whatever the outcome is.

Do not know the thrust washer/bearing situation. These would sit between the spring and top lock collar, so the base of the spring can spin under compression and rebound?

 

[OptionZero]

At this point I've decided to hold off on arms/links for two reasons.
If I can get back to acceptable specs in all areas without changing anything, that's less money spent on the front end. Also, I'll know how coilovers alone affect the vehicle, and whether things feel too compliant or teoo stiff, etc. If I change some/all arms/links I won't know if the changes, good and bad, are coilovers, arms/links, or both.
Although...ANYTHING could change by the time I'm sliding the jack under the car. Well, the coilovers won't, but anything other than those could change.

We didn't talk about cost or time to rebuild, but he said under normal conditions for a daily 60K mile rebuild.

Softer/harder, yes. I'm back and forth about 14K on the front. I'm going to trust them and roll with that...already rolled with it, technically. Revalve for spring differences is in the back of my mind, if needed. I'm searching for a setup I'm comfortable with, not just slapping them on and dealing with whatever the outcome is.

Do not know the thrust washer/bearing situation. These would sit between the spring and top lock collar, so the base of the spring can spin under compression and rebound?

washers on bottom or bearing on top from my experience but I don’t think it matters

 

[Murix]

I have the fpspec long stroke on my 124. I'm a big fan of sakebomb. Heath is great.

 

[Imperial]

Look what just came in.

 

[FSUZ33]

Ordered mine late-Jan and eagerly awaiting arrival...like a kid waiting for Christmas

 

[RSS]

So Sake bomb is taking orders Now? Will be watching to see your experience with them.

 

[Imperial]

So Sake bomb is taking orders Now? Will be watching to see your experience with them.

My set is from Ohlins Japan.

 

[FSUZ33]

Yes, Sakebomb is taking orders for their Ohlins RZ34 setup. Well, they've taken at least one. And told me a couple/few weeks ago one of their employees "got a 400Z" (lol) and they were about to install their Ohlins setup on it. Great guy, but I get the feeling they're pretty new to the Z world. I think they're well-entrenched in the FD, S2K and Miata worlds.

 

[Imperial]

Are the brake lines completely divorced from the shocks on our Z? I recall that the 370Z shocks has brackets for the brake lines.

 

[FSUZ33]

Almost certain the brake lines are not connected to the shocks.

 

[el mágico]

Like some on this forum I've been undecided for awhile. I decided for sure that I would go divorced in the rear. I had a few options, and the Nismo version was one of them.

However, I ended up pulling the trigger with Blitz ZZr. I'll install myself. Let's see how it goes.

 

[FSUZ33]

Need some guidance.

Decided not to leave the rear completely stock with the Ohlins install. Mine are being built divorced.

Please correct/expand/explain where necessary.

#1 - Toe link (?)
- Used only with a true rear setup.
- For divorced need toe arm, rear bucket, some call mid-link, that holds the bottom of the spring.
- For rear buckets (etc…) the diameter of the spring seat is something to consider.
- Best to install the toe eccentric lockout when changing to adjustable arms/links.

#2 - Camber link (?)
- Same function as a camber arm, but arms are typically billet or forged where links are typically dog bone style. Is there a noticeable (“worthwhile”) reason to get arms over links?
- I believe there is some OEM rear camber adjustment. Is there an eccentric bolt/hardware that needs to be added with this arm/link?

Not sure about #3 and #4. Suspect #3 is the traction link/arm. Also unsure of the criticality of changing either or both of these out.

 

[Imperial]

You'll only need #2 (camber arm) & #3 (traction arm) for a divorced setup.

Using the term "link" is generally only used to describe the whole system as a "multi-link suspension". Individual "links" are referred to as arms. There is no correlation with the individual part's method of construction.

The purpose of adding an eccentric bolt elimination kit when swapping to an adjustable arm is simply to remove what will be a redundant area of adjustment and lock it out to prevent slippage.

 

[FSUZ33]

You'll only need #2 (camber arm) & #3 (traction arm) for a divorced setup.

Using the term "link" is generally only used to describe the whole system as a "multi-link suspension". Individual "links" are referred to as arms. There is no correlation with the individual part's method of construction.

The purpose of adding an eccentric bolt elimination kit when swapping to an adjustable arm is simply to remove what will be a redundant area of adjustment and lock it out to prevent slippage.

Assuming I leave the mid-link (spring bucket) stock, toe is adjusted with the bucket eccentric?...and/or the traction arm? Not sure how the traction arm plays in...something about bump steer, which I think is toe-related.

Alignment pro's know what's needed, but I'd like to know for my own benefit. Searching isn't answering my questions. Or it does, then the next thing I read contradicts some of it.