HOT DAMN! I've been SONICTUNED!

[FSUZ33]

It's probably on this site somewhere, so shame on me, but this is the Easy Button.

I'm a little aware of what people are getting when they go guns blazing (modding basically everything).
What the general HP/TQ ceiling that people getting out of their Red Sports on:
- Basic bolt-ons & tune & 92-92 pump gas (intake & exhaust)?
- Escalated bolt-ons & tune & 92-94 pump gas (+ heat exchangers, intercooler - A/A or upgraded W/A, etc...)?

Also, if anyone knows or cares to share what expectations would be based on octane. (eg. "...you can get up to 500 on 94, but more like 475 on 92.").

Pretty sure 93 is the highest available around me. Right now I'm focused on knick-knacks, next up what I consider upper-mid-grade coilovers (HKS?...not really sure where they fall in line on that scale). I don't see myself doing power stuff for a while, but it's inevitable that I'm going to fall down the rabbit hole.

 

[VR30Z6spd]

It's probably on this site somewhere, so shame on me, but this is the Easy Button.

I'm a little aware of what people are getting when they go guns blazing (modding basically everything).
What the general HP/TQ ceiling that people getting out of their Red Sports on:
- Basic bolt-ons & tune & 92-92 pump gas (intake & exhaust)?
- Escalated bolt-ons & tune & 92-94 pump gas (+ heat exchangers, intercooler - A/A or upgraded W/A, etc...)?

Also, if anyone knows or cares to share what expectations would be based on octane. (eg. "...you can get up to 500 on 94, but more like 475 on 92.").

Pretty sure 93 is the highest available around me. Right now I'm focused on knick-knacks, next up what I consider upper-mid-grade coilovers (HKS?...not really sure where they fall in line on that scale). I don't see myself doing power stuff for a while, but it's inevitable that I'm going to fall down the rabbit hole.

here is the FBO most run
heat exchanger (must even if stock and you dont want a tune)
Intercooler change (there is AMS and mishi generally it will drop charged air temps around 15 degrees)
Full Downpipe (catless)
Full free flowing exhaust
intakes (AMS or boosted 6) now ams just dropped a new intake 80mm which they claim better top end power

on PUMP gas 93 oct (best case scenario)
440-450 rwhp
500-520 rwtq

now if you add ethanol in the mix

upgrade your low fuel pressure pump $250
upgrade your high pressure pump $1500
flex fuel sensor and filter $500-600

here you will be able to get close to 485-490 rwhp and torque can jump close to 600

 

[goeagles11]

Don't know how much more juice, if any, can be squeezed out of a dyno over the remote SonicTuned tune with the current mods done. All I know is that my Z now feels/performs like I want it to, so the actual hard numbers aren't really all that important to me, rather a mere curiosity. Also don't want to start flirting with reliability or having to beef up more components in order to properly mate with even more power, at least not at this point. Regarding lower gears' traction; haven't turned off traction control yet to see what's happening unassisted by it, but she will now consistently bark the tires in shifts 2-to-3 and 3-to-4 no problem at full throttle with traction control on before it auto-corrects. With the damn price of these Michelins I'll definitely be watching my right foot a lot more closely than before the tune.

“Butt dyno” means drive feel difference haha not actual dyno numbers. I’m deciding whether to keep stock or to go your route and was curious how different it actually feels compared to stock.

 

[Mr. Mac]

“Butt dyno” means drive feel difference haha not actual dyno numbers. I’m deciding whether to keep stock or to go your route and was curious how different it actually feels compared to stock.

Ah, sorry, first misread your post as "But dyno feels much faster?" Anyway, yes, the "BUTT" dyno absolutely feels way different than stock. The extra edge from post-mods/tune "...now feels/performs like I want it to..." Very happy.

 

[Thefunk]

700NM ~ 516 LB-ft
pretty good trans to handle extra power, however other components would definitely need to be upgraded to actually make use of the added power.

Good point. Does the Nismo have solid trans and diff braces?

 

[FSUZ33]

Good point. Does the Nismo have solid trans and diff braces?

Is 'brace' the same as 'mount' in this context?
If so, both trans and diff mounts are rubber, but per Nissan, stiffer on the NISMO.

 

[Thefunk]

Is 'brace' the same as 'mount' in this context?
If so, both trans and diff mounts are rubber, but per Nissan, stiffer on the NISMO.

Ah interesting. The performance trans is braced but with a soft rubber bushing. The diff is not braced at all.

 

[FSUZ33]

I tried to figure out differences related to trans mounts/bracing and diff mounts/bracing. WAY too much time on parts.nissanusa. I may have found one thing that could be tied to diff bracing/rigidity, but not sure.

I could write a thesis on this. Not about the rigidity differences. It would be about NISSAN's dumpster fire of a component structure. To get to the point, I'll say their "Vehicle Fitment" info is...'hot garbage.'

The image above are rear cross-member parts, #1 being the rear cross-member itself.
Pretty sure the diff tucks up in there.
Items 1, 2, 3 and 7 are shown used on all '23-'25 models. #7 is the rear diff mount and there are no subcomponents. So if that's a diff 'rigidity/mount/bushing' thing, if there's only one part for all, meaning that wouldn't play into any rigidity/stiffness differences.

If this is correct, this is literally the only useful info in this entire post. And even that is useful only for the 1 or 2 people who even care.
-> Items 4, 5 and 6, they say, are specific to the '24 Proto (doesn't show the '23...?) and '24-'25 NISMO. I do not know where these connect. If any connect to or play with the diff, then maybe that's the 'increased stiffness.'

They list 4 different diffs, which makes sense, open/LS x MT/AT (final drive difference). BUT...I was under the impression that the NISMO has a larger capacity cover that's more aggressively finned. And the Sport doesn't have a diff temp sensor mounted to the cover. If the NISMO has "firmer bushings" (speaking of the two on the input/front of the diff) wouldn't there be another full assy with the firmer bushings? Oh, maybe the input side bushings are separate? Well, yes, you can buy them separately. There's one part number. Just one. For all years/models.
So how come only 4 different full diff assys? It also says both the MT versions (open and LS) are used on all years and models. (open/MT used on the '24-'25 NISMO. Nope.

I'm not even going into the Hellscape that my transmission mount search turned into. I give up. This has left me markedly less sane. Hoping it's temporary.

Have a great weekend!

 

[Rzko]

This was fully remote tuned, not an in-person dyno (yet anyway), so not sure of the actual #s. All I know is it feels proper now. Huge difference over stock. All the tuners I've spoken to have said pretty much the same thing though which is with the mods I've done and with the tuning it normally puts these things in/around the low 500s area.

I am considering the remote tune from him also, what all was involved in the process? Ive read everything on his site for it but do you have to go out and do pulls on the high way or..? I was considering renting some dyno time instead of going out on the highway if so lol

 

[VR30Z6spd]

process is very simple, and what the time this car has been out. all mods have already been ironed out.

so first tune could be as 95% ready to final tune.

why keep your car slow when you can really enjoy it

 

[Suzuyabot]

I am considering the remote tune from him also, what all was involved in the process? Ive read everything on his site for it but do you have to go out and do pulls on the high way or..? I was considering renting some dyno time instead of going out on the highway if so lol

He would still suggest you run a pull outside. That's pretty much because the reason that data on the street is closer to your real-life situation. It would take 2-3 weeks for everything to be done. I just finished the process with him. You will need to do pulls from the beginning of 3rd gear to the end of the 5th gear, be aware of it. That's going to be something like over 130 mph on the road. But if you want, you can still try to talk to him to see if you can do it on the dyno, though.

But don't worry too much, just send him your mod list and you get your basemap. That's safe for daily drives. What I did was to run those pulls late at night, just find a good empty road and enjoy your car as normal.

 

[Rzko]

He would still suggest you run a pull outside. That's pretty much because the reason that data on the street is closer to your real-life situation. It would take 2-3 weeks for everything to be done. I just finished the process with him. You will need to do pulls from the beginning of 3rd gear to the end of the 5th gear, be aware of it. That's going to be something like over 130 mph on the road. But if you want, you can still try to talk to him to see if you can do it on the dyno, though.

But don't worry too much, just send him your mod list and you get your basemap. That's safe for daily drives. What I did was to run those pulls late at night, just find a good empty road and enjoy your car as normal.

Thanks for the info! I figured that was entailed but wasnt 100%. Ill be reaching out to him sometime this month.

 

[HWill]

He would still suggest you run a pull outside. That's pretty much because the reason that data on the street is closer to your real-life situation. It would take 2-3 weeks for everything to be done. I just finished the process with him. You will need to do pulls from the beginning of 3rd gear to the end of the 5th gear, be aware of it. That's going to be something like over 130 mph on the road. But if you want, you can still try to talk to him to see if you can do it on the dyno, though.

But don't worry too much, just send him your mod list and you get your basemap. That's safe for daily drives. What I did was to run those pulls late at night, just find a good empty road and enjoy your car as normal.

There is no difference between a dyno tune and a street tune except one is more controlled and safer. A good dyno can simulate road conditions.
The reason most offer street tunes is because not everyone has access or want to spend the extra to go to a dyno.