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Ohlins Coilover Setup

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FSUZ33

FSUZ33

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Do you know which shop is installing it for you?

Even if you aren't ready to install, talk to them about how you're going to set up your switches. I don't know whether you have any blank slots in the center console, but thats the obvious place if its free

Otherwise, pick a spot, figure out whether you want buttons, switches whatever. The center console is convenient because it doesn't require cutting anything up, there's an OEM switch you can use.
If you weren't talking to me this will be a pretty worthless post, but here goes...

Are you talking about the switch/button for the cups? If so, I've got 2 poverty buttons in the center console. The Stanceparts harness has just one panel mount button, I believe.

Planning to do the full install myself, which is the actual delay. Coilovers come next week, and cups hopefully in June or July (per Heath). Plan is to install the cups on the coilovers before install and then onto the car whether I have the compressor and the rest of the cup kit. If they go on without the rest of the cup stuff I'll cap the fittings so no crud gets in.

FYI, neither Heath nor Nick got back to me after talking with Heath about going true rear, other than a couple of emails with Nick, and out of the blue I got a shipment notification. The divorced plan was 14/11, and Heath and I spoke about the leverage change going to true and the spring rate difference. I actually don't know what rate spring is on the rear.
 

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If you weren't talking to me this will be a pretty worthless post, but here goes...

Are you talking about the switch/button for the cups? If so, I've got 2 poverty buttons in the center console. The Stanceparts harness has just one panel mount button, I believe.

Planning to do the full install myself, which is the actual delay. Coilovers come next week, and cups hopefully in June or July (per Heath). Plan is to install the cups on the coilovers before install and then onto the car whether I have the compressor and the rest of the cup kit. If they go on without the rest of the cup stuff I'll cap the fittings so no crud gets in.

FYI, neither Heath nor Nick got back to me after talking with Heath about going true rear, other than a couple of emails with Nick, and out of the blue I got a shipment notification. The divorced plan was 14/11, and Heath and I spoke about the leverage change going to true and the spring rate difference. I actually don't know what rate spring is on the rear.
yeah that was for you

and yes, the cups go on the coils off the card, because they go below the top mount, above the coils
 

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was wondering the same thing. Also the big gap between front and rear camber. Really you want it within .5 of each other. I would have expected at least -1.5 from a lowered Z.

I am running -1.1 Front and -1.9 rear on stock suspension because that is all I could get from the front without adjustable camber arms
Nissan appears to have intended for it based on the factory ranges. I pretty much ran a similar setup on my 370Z Nismo that I used for Time Attack.

without camber you aren't using them effectively
Quite effective for my purposes. This isnt meant to be a dedicated track car.
 
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yeah that was for you

and yes, the cups go on the coils off the card, because they go below the top mount, above the coils
My assumption, therefore plan, is to measure the preset spring height, measure the thickness of the cup, install the cup, then adjust the spring perch to original dimension + the cup thickness. Thinking that sets the preload back to where it was originally. Correct?

Yeah, what I was getting at was I'm probably not going to install the coils at all until I get the cups because I don't want to have to take everything back apart. Fingers crossed the cups don't take as long as the coils to turn around.
 

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Here's my alignment. I requested middle of factory specified ranges.

b3e187c4-20d6-4bbe-b122-8d4820f5197f.webp
I’m surprised that the nismo came with less camber OEM than the performance. I had to run more than 2.5 camber up front to tuck my 10.5 front wheels in, and even then the “tire hair” is still sticking out a bit.
 
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I’m surprised that the nismo came with less camber OEM than the performance. I had to run more than 2.5 camber up front to tuck my 10.5 front wheels in, and even then the “tire hair” is still sticking out a bit.
Lol, tire hair is The Devil. I don't know why it grinds my gears so much, but I posted a rant on here about it at some point. I pulled all 4 wheels/tires off not long after I got my Z, washed and ceramic coated them, then individually cut off every single tire hair.
#OCD-aero
 

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Nissan appears to have intended for it based on the factory ranges. I pretty much ran a similar setup on my 370Z Nismo that I used for Time Attack.



Quite effective for my purposes. This isnt meant to be a dedicated track car.
factory camber settings are limited based on their stupid lack of front camber adjustment and also because understeer is considered safer for gen pop
 

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My assumption, therefore plan, is to measure the preset spring height, measure the thickness of the cup, install the cup, then adjust the spring perch to original dimension + the cup thickness. Thinking that sets the preload back to where it was originally. Correct?

Yeah, what I was getting at was I'm probably not going to install the coils at all until I get the cups because I don't want to have to take everything back apart. Fingers crossed the cups don't take as long as the coils to turn around.
yes, you'll have to account for the thickness of the cup by lowering the height accordingly

you can just get it in the ballpark, you're gonna need an alignment afterwards anyways and the suspension shop can do it more precisely
 

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factory camber settings are limited based on their stupid lack of front camber adjustment and also because understeer is considered safer for gen pop
I know this and it’s exactly what I want. I don’t pretend to be a race car driver so there’s no point in having my car setup to drive like one and I would like to get maximum life out of my tires
 

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If you weren't talking to me this will be a pretty worthless post, but here goes...

Are you talking about the switch/button for the cups? If so, I've got 2 poverty buttons in the center console. The Stanceparts harness has just one panel mount button, I believe.

Planning to do the full install myself, which is the actual delay. Coilovers come next week, and cups hopefully in June or July (per Heath). Plan is to install the cups on the coilovers before install and then onto the car whether I have the compressor and the rest of the cup kit. If they go on without the rest of the cup stuff I'll cap the fittings so no crud gets in.
Sounds like your doing the same wait to install plan as I am then. I haven’t decided on switch location yet, I have no blanks in console so every time I drive I look for a quick accessible location. Going tankless, just have to find a good pump location. It will be interesting to see how well this all goes together for me.
 
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Leaning tankless as well. Haven't really dug into the install side of that, but I did read/see somewhere that you can get the compressor into the master cylinder compartment. No clue if that's true. As I plan tankless and front-only I hope there's a way to mount it somewhere in/toward the front. Doubt it makes inflation quicker, noticeably anyway, but would make the install less complicated.

I believe the push button switch on the Stanceparts harness is like the one below. Pretty clean install just drilling a hole somewhere relatively flat with a little space behind it, although it would be nice to avoid drilling a hole in the console or somewhere else.

1779450937828-y5.webp


Some unobtrusive spots below...maybe?
By a cup holder shouldn't be an issue as long as the switch is sealed (gets liquid sloshed over it). Last thing you want is it getting wet, popping off, and you're stuck doing the Carolina Squat at 80 mph on the highway.

1779451456698-f4.webp
 
 






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