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No, I’m on aftermarket arms and here’s my alignment, it’s still mostly a street car so I didn’t go for an overly aggressive setting.

Some thoughts after some seat time with the JDM ohlins. The daily ride quality honestly felt more refined, obviously it’s less “soft” than the OEM performance coilovers, but the motion of the car after big bumps and braking feels much more controlled and predictable, instead of the soft mushy...

Took her to the track yesterday. The ams hot air intake is surprisingly loud from the outside. The ohlins coilovers completely transformed the handling of the car, car feels way more planted without sacrificing too much daily comfort , money truly well spent I’d say. And yes you can hear I...

I ran 10.5+22 wheels front with 275/35/19 and 11+18 with 305/30/19 in the rear. I’d say there are plenty of clearance in the rear with the 305 so I’m pretty sure 315 will work, not sure about 325 though but I think with more camber it wouldn’t be much of an issue.(I ran 2.2 camber in the rear...

I’m surprised that the nismo came with less camber OEM than the performance. I had to run more than 2.5 camber up front to tuck my 10.5 front wheels in, and even then the “tire hair” is still sticking out a bit.

I just went with the suggested settings from ohlins. The ride height is perfect imo. Also installed SPL FUCAs, z1 rear camber arms, and te37 19x10.5 +22, 19x11 +18

6 months of waiting for parts.. big upgrade finally coming next week, can’t wait!

Ordered 3/27 arrived 5/6. JDM ohlins

Could you walk me through the steps for removing and reinstalling the trunk hardware? I'm a total beginner at DIY car work, but since you mentioned it’s low cost and effort, I’d love to take this on. Any 'newbie' tips would be much appreciated!

Thanks for the detailed explanation. My question now is, I understand that toe is the main reason for tire wear, do I need anything else other than rear camber arms and the eccentric bolt elimination kit to get the toe as close to 0?

I’m also new to aftermarket suspensions, from what I’ve read. Using a divorced rear and lowering will usually affect camber and toe. I’m ok with a little bit of camber but if I want more adjustments I’ll need a rear camber arm, and to adjust toe back to 0 I’ll just need the eccentric bolt kit...

Axelback from Fujimura Auto. Fitment and build quality is top notch. Sound is very subjective, I personally love the resonated note and the transformation to a higher-pitched note around 4k rpm.

I'm pretty sure the pic from black hawk is generic, I found this from a Japanese website where people post and review their mods, and this pic came from an RZ34 with JDM Ohlins (Source with English google translate...

I'm also looking for coilovers and torn between kw v3 and the ohlins. I found that ohlins Japan has made the DFV for the RZ34 (https://ohlins-czj.jp/automotive/auto-search/) and found that blackhawkjapan imports them for a fairly reasonable price...

Amazing conversion! May I ask how much did it cost(parts, shipping, paint, labour) for the bumper install? I'm looking to do this in the future on my white Z as well.

I'm pretty new to this but I'm looking at a set of coilovers from either ST/KW with -1 to -1.5 camber. Hoping this will result in no poke/rub and as a balanced street setup

Nice setup! I'm also looking to go with the TE37s but still debating between 10.5J +15 or 11J +18 in the rear. Do you notice any rub or wheel poke with this setup? (Can't really tell from this angle)

Thanks for getting back! So basically both sides has the same cables and hardwares, and just connect them to the fuse box at each footwell?

Hi, do you recall if the wiring and hardware(Including length and the connectors) are the exact same on the both sides(Passenger and driver)? Since I'm looking to import a set of RHD Fairlday Z kick plates and I'm wondering if there are any differences to the LHD variant. Pic for reference.