HKS Hipermax R coilovers installed

[Kludos]

Might as well keep this thread going.

I got my Hypermax R's and installed them. The installation was super straightforward, 5 bolts at the front and 4 at the rear. The only issue I had is that I stripped the nut of one of the rear shock bolts, which is specced to ~120nm. I returned the torque wrench and swapped it for a better quality one to be on the safe side, but the other bolts I tensioned were reading correctly so I'm not sure what the problem was. It's pretty high torque for such a fine pitched thread, and of course the exact nut is not easy to source, so I had to get something close enough from the fastener shop until I can get a replacement nut from HKS.

That challenge aside, the shocks dropped the car by about an inch an a half once they settled. Initially they were extremely stiff and I thought I'd made a mistake by going with the R's, but the ride improved once they settled and now I've backed off damping it's totally acceptable. I'm about -10 clicks from stock (15/30) now, but I think I'll increase the front by 3-4 and the rear by 1-2 and that will feel pretty good for "spirited driving". I don't track my car, but it's also not a daily, so a firm but functional ride is what I'm aiming for.

To finish it off I got the Z1 lowered spacers for the stock wheels and the fitment is just right. I've only driven it enough to settle the suspension before getting an alignment, but even with the angles out of whack I can tell these shocks are game changer. It feels like a slot car in the corners, and I can put the power down so much better from a standing start. I'm very keen to get the alignment done this week and see how it handles.

The spacers are just a stopgap until the tyres wear out, and then I'll go with some aftermarket wheels in a proper offset and some stickier rubber. Love this car!

 

[Kludos]

I got the alignment done and HOLY what a difference the coilovers make. The car feels so gripped up now even on the stock tyres, and putting the power down is a lot safer.

Once settled the drop was 33mm at the front and 25mm rear, prior to lowering the front guards were 3mm higher than the rear, so HKS have given the car some rake with their standard setup.

With this drop the rears had 2.5 deg of camber prior to the alignment, and we could only get it to 1.7 with the standard arms. I've got some GKTech camber arms to fit next, but the shop thinks we can only get to 1.5-1.4 before needing adjustable toe buckets. GKtech make those too but they use 2.5" ID springs, which I think is different to what comes with the HKS.

I could probably get a spacer to fit the wider spring, but it's all a bit of a ballache, so I think I'll put the camber arms on and get it to 1.5 and call it good.

As far as settings go, I've now got the rear fully open on damping at -30 and the front at -25 and it feels pretty balanced with good grip on bumpy aussie roads. It's still stiffly spring but there's some decent compliance on bumps now that I've backed the damping off.

 

[el mágico]

I got the alignment done and HOLY what a difference the coilovers make. The car feels so gripped up now even on the stock tyres, and putting the power down is a lot safer.

Once settled the drop was 33mm at the front and 25mm rear, prior to lowering the front guards were 3mm higher than the rear, so HKS have given the car some rake with their standard setup.

With this drop the rears had 2.5 deg of camber prior to the alignment, and we could only get it to 1.7 with the standard arms. I've got some GKTech camber arms to fit next, but the shop thinks we can only get to 1.5-1.4 before needing adjustable toe buckets. GKtech make those too but they use 2.5" ID springs, which I think is different to what comes with the HKS.

I could probably get a spacer to fit the wider spring, but it's all a bit of a ballache, so I think I'll put the camber arms on and get it to 1.5 and call it good.

As far as settings go, I've now got the rear fully open on damping at -30 and the front at -25 and it feels pretty balanced with good grip on bumpy aussie roads. It's still stiffly spring but there's some decent compliance on bumps now that I've backed the damping off.

Clean! Personally, I've come realize lowering the Z is one of the first mods that I should have done.

From the my limited knowledge, HKS are a quality brand. I have been looking at BC (BR) and the Nismo versions for my Z. However, I'm trying to understand the difference between a divorce set-up and true set-up in the rear. Which is better for my use.

Cheers!

 

[Kludos]

I found a neat solution to getting proper toe once lowered with the Z1 eccentric kit.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/compo...-rear-toe-camber-eccentric-bolts-p-58876.html

You use the template to widen the adjustment holes and then replace the bolts with new wider adjustment range ones. Anyone rocking this setup?

Clean! Personally, I've come realize lowering the Z is one of the first mods that I should have done.

From the my limited knowledge, HKS are a quality brand. I have been looking at BC (BR) and the Nismo versions for my Z. However, I'm trying to understand the difference between a divorce set-up and true set-up in the rear. Which is better for my use.

Cheers!

The divorced setup puts the force from the suspension straight into the chassis, while going to a full coilover rear puts it into the strut tower, that wasn't really designed for that load. Plenty of people run them however, and deleting the spring bucket makes life easier for camber/toe etc.

BC BR is a great choice, but if all you want to do is go lower you could just do swift springs like a lot of others here.

 

[Drago86]

Yesterday I had some HKS Hipermax R coilovers installed as well as 15mm spacers. We didn't go too crazy on the height - just a nice subtle drop. On the way home I started experiencing a nasty kerthunking sound from the front so I had to take it back this morning - thankfully it was one of the spacers that was dodgy and not the expensive coilovers.

I was debating for months if I should get the HKS R's or S's. In the end the workshop had a pair of R's already en-route from Japan and had no ETA on the S's so I that made the choice easier.

I was worried the R's may be a bit too stiff but actually they are perfect - exactly how I wanted. The car is transformed. It's much firmer but still totally compliant and smooth. It's so much more predictable and stable. Turn-in is sharp, it sits flat in corners, doesn't feel like it's trying to kill you under hard acceleration and under hard braking it no longer does that thing where the rear starts to wobble and feel like it wants to overtake the front end. They're pricey, but worth it.

The ass-end is still my favourite angle

Just a quick FYI, others have had big problems with 15mm spacers and the stock studs and wheels. The studs are too long and don't fit in the "pockets" of the wheels so you end up with a dangerous situation where the wheel isn't actually flush against the hub. This can cause the wheel to literally fall off while driving, I'd check them.

See this thread: https://www.nissanzclub.com/forum/threads/2023-nissan-z-wheel-spacers.2224/page-2

 

[OptionZero]

I found a neat solution to getting proper toe once lowered with the Z1 eccentric kit.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/compo...-rear-toe-camber-eccentric-bolts-p-58876.html

You use the template to widen the adjustment holes and then replace the bolts with new wider adjustment range ones. Anyone rocking this setup?


The divorced setup puts the force from the suspension straight into the chassis, while going to a full coilover rear puts it into the strut tower, that wasn't really designed for that load. Plenty of people run them however, and deleting the spring bucket makes life easier for camber/toe etc.

BC BR is a great choice, but if all you want to do is go lower you could just do swift springs like a lot of others here.

don't make your shop cut your subframe! its one more thing to screw up

Get adjustable arms and replace the eccentric bolts with locked units that won't slip

 

[Drago86]

don't make your shop cut your subframe! its one more thing to screw up

Get adjustable arms and replace the eccentric bolts with locked units that won't slip

That doesnt work for a divorced spring setup like the hipermax unless you buy the extemely expensive adjustable spring bucket arms from spl/nismo. The toe arm IS the spring bucket. You can add a camber arm but will run out of toe with the stock buckets. The linked kit is the usualy way to get around this outside of dropping 1500$ on the spl arms or going true coilovers (which stresses the shock towers in ways they weren't designed for).

 

[OptionZero]

Pay the money and do it right
I mean why did you pay $50k for a brand new sports car only to cheap out on suspension?

 

[Nice boat]

I’m also new to aftermarket suspensions, from what I’ve read. Using a divorced rear and lowering will usually affect camber and toe. I’m ok with a little bit of camber but if I want more adjustments I’ll need a rear camber arm, and to adjust toe back to 0 I’ll just need the eccentric bolt kit (E.g.https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-offset-eccentric-bolt-elimination-kit-p-11977.html). Please correct me if I’m wrong.

 

[OptionZero]

I’m also new to aftermarket suspensions, from what I’ve read. Using a divorced rear and lowering will usually affect camber and toe. I’m ok with a little bit of camber but if I want more adjustments I’ll need a rear camber arm, and to adjust toe back to 0 I’ll just need the eccentric bolt kit (E.g.https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-offset-eccentric-bolt-elimination-kit-p-11977.html). Please correct me if I’m wrong.

Any lowering of the car can change the alignment, regardless of whether it is with divorced rear (which is the factory arrangement) or true coilover (which requires replacing arms anyways)

The proper way to lower your car is height adjustable coilovers and adjustable arms.
And connected to that, the proper way to get aggressive wheel fitment is to buy wheels with more aggressive sizing and match that to your adjustable suspension.

This allows your suspension shop to set the height to your desired level (testing as needed) and once thats set, adjust the alignment.

I must note that NEGATIVE CAMBER IS NOT BAD. It is good for actually driving your car fast around a corner. How much camber, of course, depends on what you're doing and your setup.

Camber causes UNEVEN tire wear
Toe is what causes abnormally fast wear.

The R/Z chassis has minimal rear alignment adjustment and zero front adjustment alignment because Nissan is using a chassis from 2009 and only did minor tweaks like adjusting a spring rate or damping or an arm length (maybe?)

 

[Nice boat]

Any lowering of the car can change the alignment, regardless of whether it is with divorced rear (which is the factory arrangement) or true coilover (which requires replacing arms anyways)

The proper way to lower your car is height adjustable coilovers and adjustable arms.
And connected to that, the proper way to get aggressive wheel fitment is to buy wheels with more aggressive sizing and match that to your adjustable suspension.

This allows your suspension shop to set the height to your desired level (testing as needed) and once thats set, adjust the alignment.

I must note that NEGATIVE CAMBER IS NOT BAD. It is good for actually driving your car fast around a corner. How much camber, of course, depends on what you're doing and your setup.

Camber causes UNEVEN tire wear
Toe is what causes abnormally fast wear.

The R/Z chassis has minimal rear alignment adjustment and zero front adjustment alignment because Nissan is using a chassis from 2009 and only did minor tweaks like adjusting a spring rate or damping or an arm length (maybe?)

Thanks for the detailed explanation. My question now is, I understand that toe is the main reason for tire wear, do I need anything else other than rear camber arms and the eccentric bolt elimination kit to get the toe as close to 0?

 

[OptionZero]

Thanks for the detailed explanation. My question now is, I understand that toe is the main reason for tire wear, do I need anything else other than rear camber arms and the eccentric bolt elimination kit to get the toe as close to 0?

There is eccentric bolt for toe adjustment

whether it is sufficient to return your toe to near zero, i dont know.

 

[Kludos]

Pay the money and do it right
I mean why did you pay $50k for a brand new sports car only to cheap out on suspension?

Obviously HKS wasn't the cheap option, but every set of replacement buckets I've seen switch the springs to a 2.5" ID.

Actually, I need to look a bit more into it, the HKS main spring is wider but it's the helper spring that sits on the perch and that might be 2.5" ID and fit the aftermarket arms. Ideally I'd go with the eccentric delete and adjustable buckets if I can keep the HKS springs.

Thanks for the detailed explanation. My question now is, I understand that toe is the main reason for tire wear, do I need anything else other than rear camber arms and the eccentric bolt elimination kit to get the toe as close to 0?

The answer depends on how low you go. With stock camber arms and an inch of drop at the rear I could get -1.7 camber which is pretty aggressive for street and will wear the inside of the tyres quickly. With the camber arms alone I can get ~1.5 before the toe will be an issue which is only marginally better, which is why I also need to do something that will give me more toe adjustment.

 

[OptionZero]

I see no reason to be married to the HKS springs. Swift and Hyperco are well regarded brands with every rate you could want. Most coilover companies actually offer these as an upgrade on their coilovers anyways.

My Aragosta springs are sitting in a box. I went swifts and never regretted it.

Switched to Eibach when I needed a uniquely short spring to accomodate air cups.

 

[Drago86]

I don't see why you're so against the toe bolts. The part of the subframe to grind just expands the stock adjustment track ~1/8 inch and comes no where close to weakening anything. The bolts clamp and function identical to the stock toe adjustment in every other way.

See this video for the install(though I would want to be a little more precise on the grinding):