Sway Bars: What did you choose & why?

[zRedBaron]

Why so hostile? We're just talking about sway bars on a car, not world peace.

It gets tiring repeating yourself and having to spoon feed and justify information that is readily available.

 

[Katum68]

It gets tiring repeating yourself and having to spoon feed and justify information that is readily available.

I understand. BTW, I had a 280ZXTurbo, 1991+93 300ZX Twin turbo and a 370Z with which I had 2 turbos by Z1.

 

[VR30Infection]

It gets tiring repeating yourself and having to spoon feed and justify information that is readily available.

I hope your day goes better. Nothing here is worth getting upset over.

 

[VR30Infection]

Some basic truths regarding anti-sway bar tuning.

When changing and or tuning with anti-sway bars, the stiffer bar increases what’s called roll stiffness. This is resistance to body roll. It is like adding a stiffer spring when you’re in a corner and the body is trying to roll over, without having that stiff of a spring over bumps or during braking or acceleration. When at the limit in a corner, they are used to tune understeer and or oversteer. It is the exact opposite of what some think. If you have a car that is under steering and you change nothing but adding roll stiffness to the front with either a stiffer front bar or stiffer springs, you will cause this car to understeer quicker than it did before. This is a fact. If you want to help the car rotate better and lessen the understeer issue in this hypothetical situation, you would either stiffen the rear bar or loosen the front to help weight transfer to that tire and increase grip. Please do not take my word for it or anyone else’s here on this forum, if you want to know and understand there are plenty of suspension tuning books out there that will help. Or talk to a manufacturer of these bars. Or test this yourself. I’m not adding this information to upset anyone. I’m hoping it helps people understand their cars and helps them with making decisions on where to spend their hard earned money. Just because something is stiffer doesn’t mean it’s automatically better. If it is prone to cracking then of course that would be inadequate. Spring rate tuning and sway bar or anti-sway bar tuning is not a one size fits all situation. It depends on rim and tire size, tire compound, and would even come down to what track you’re on. (If we were speaking of track focused cars). There is also driving style and preference. Some people aren’t comfortable with a car that has the ass step out at the limit and some people can’t stand It if the front starts to wash out. It just depends. The stiffer your spring rate is will typically lower the necessity of stiffness in the bars because at track stiffness, the roll stiffness has already been increased. If there is someone here with the HKS R coilovers that have 22k front springs, and stock bars, please chime in. I would bet you probably already feel like the body roll is almost gone. Again. Hope this helps.

 

[CPerdomo]

Why so hostile? We're just talking about sway bars on a car, not world peace.

Exactly!

 

[linebacker14R]

I went with Cusco front and rear....friend of mine who owns an STi suggested them since they come stock on some Japanese cars...gotta say I like the way they work both on and off track...only suspension mods currently...

 

[KrackaC8]

STILLEN front & rear

Hollow design and retains the stock bushings & mounts.

Stiffer isn't always better. Eibach was my #2 but I was trying to avoid aftermarket polyurethane bushings this time around.

In the past on other vehicles I've run:

• Eibach (Evo X & C8)
• Whiteline (S2k, Evo IX, & Evo X)
• Hotchkis (C7)
• Swift (S2k & Evo IX)
• SuspensionTechniques (DSM)

Of that list, the only swaybar brand I'd recommend or install again is Eibach. I could make a very similar list for aftermarket lowering springs...

 

[Katum68]

STILLEN front & rear

Hollow design and retains the stock bushings & mounts.

Stiffer isn't always better. Eibach was my #2 but I was trying to avoid aftermarket polyurethane bushings this time around.

In the past on other vehicles I've run:

• Eibach (Evo X & C8)
• Whiteline (S2k, Evo IX, & Evo X)
• Hotchkis (C7)
• Swift (S2k & Evo IX)
• SuspensionTechniques (DSM)

Of that list, the only swaybar brand I'd recommend or install again is Eibach. I could make a very similar list for aftermarket lowering springs...

I got Stillen also.

 

[kappa_md]

STILLEN front & rear

Hollow design and retains the stock bushings & mounts.

Stiffer isn't always better. Eibach was my #2 but I was trying to avoid aftermarket polyurethane bushings this time around.

In the past on other vehicles I've run:

• Eibach (Evo X & C8)
• Whiteline (S2k, Evo IX, & Evo X)
• Hotchkis (C7)
• Swift (S2k & Evo IX)
• SuspensionTechniques (DSM)

Of that list, the only swaybar brand I'd recommend or install again is Eibach. I could make a very similar list for aftermarket lowering springs...

I’ve been using Eibach springs and sway bars for over a decade now with varying platforms. Definitely improves handling and quality wise, I haven’t had ANY issue in terms of built and reliability.

It’s good to hear similar views and ownership experience using Eibach. Back in the day, Eibach makes TRD springs and sway bars and that led me to use Eibach in all my cars. Eibach continues to make (private label) springs and sway bars for other brands up to this day.

 

[KrackaC8]

I’ve been using Eibach springs and sway bars for over a decade now with varying platforms. Definitely improves handling and quality wise, I haven’t had ANY issue in terms of built and reliability.

It’s good to hear similar views and ownership experience using Eibach. Back in the day, Eibach makes TRD springs and sway bars and that led me to use Eibach in all may cars. Eibach continues to make (private label) springs and sway bars for other brands up to this day.

That explains why I see so many Tundras with red Eibach rear swaybars!

 

[KrackaC8]

Stillen front anti-sway bar installed on the softest setting this morning; will stiffen it up once I do the rear bar as well. Install was easy and fitment perfect reusing the stock links/brackets/bushings. I had to use an electric impact to get one of the end-link nuts off (17mm). The bracket nuts (deep 14mm) were no issue. I cleaned the brackets & bushings and relubricated them with a packet of Energy suspension grease for zero squeaks.

 

[hipertec]

Let us know if you noticed a difference with the Stillens.

 

[KrackaC8]

Let us know if you noticed a difference with the Stillens.

Will do! I need to go out for a solo test-drive.

 

[Katum68]

Will do! I need to go out for a solo test-drive.

I have stillens. On firmest. Not that bad at all. Difference, you feel some side pressure on turns but no downwind pressure.

 

[trackratZ]

They will make a noticeable difference vs stock when set to firmest front. I started with the middle setting but not that much of a difference. Rear is still on soft setting. Flat cornering and well controlled, still on stock springs and shocks.