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How fast is a stock Z really?

thesilverbullet

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I've seen varying WHP readings for the stock Z. I've seen 325whp to 370whp.
A lot of variables with dynos. Hub dynos like Dynapack will be real close to flywheel hp. A hydraulic drum dyno like dynojet and mustang will read much lower than a hub dyno. A mustang will typically read lower than a dynojet. boosted engines can vary more than n/a due to heat soak and variation in the boost control. Auto’s read lower than m/t. Like zmidlife said, the dyno software has different options to compensate for test conditions like temp, altitude, humidity, etc. so only real answer is calculating gains / losses with same dyno and conditions.
 
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Apex_Z

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I've seen varying WHP readings for the stock Z. I've seen 325whp to 370whp.
Dynos can vary a lot. I have seen as much as 20% difference. That said, if you take the published HP number from the factory and multiply it by 0.87 you will be damn close to the real wheel HP number. That is 348 for our cars. I would be surprised if one bone stock car to the next (of the same trim/year/etc..) varied more than 5hp from each other in the same conditions. Tolerances and QC are pretty tight these days.
 

Tranzor Z

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I know this is old, but I believe 15 psi boost is Max on these cars. If you're seeing 17 to 18 something seems off.
 

Kbl911

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Stock Z + stickier tires = surprisingly quick from a dig (assuming you have decent launch technique).

Even while being a bit derisive, Car & Driver and Motor Trend acknowledged that traction was holding the car back more than power. Now, some of that is due to the softer suspension setup on all but the NISMO but the tires have frequently been singled out as the primary culprit for straight-line performance issues.
 

Thefunk

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Dynos can vary a lot. I have seen as much as 20% difference. That said, if you take the published HP number from the factory and multiply it by 0.87 you will be damn close to the real wheel HP number. That is 348 for our cars. I would be surprised if one bone stock car to the next (of the same trim/year/etc..) varied more than 5hp from each other in the same conditions. Tolerances and QC are pretty tight these days.
Where does the .87 factor come from?
 

Apex_Z

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Where does the .87 factor come from?
Average drivetrain loss is 13% or so typically. Multiplying fwhp by 0.87 gives a pretty good wheel estimate.

Years back I was involved in some testing on a couple different super flow engine and chassis dynos for motorcycles.

We saw between 12-14% drivetrain losses.

Cars used to be worse (bigger heavier gears/shafts) than that but these days the transmissions and rear ends are pretty efficient so I think that 13% estimate is probably about as close as you're gonna get without doing testing on these specific cars.


Dynos are great for tuning and testing relative change on a given engine, but to get a true number I think taking the advertised flywheel horsepower times my multiplication factor is more likely to give an accurate rear wheel number.
 
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RadzShadow

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What a lot of youtubers skimp on or miss entirely is what attracted me to the Z to begin with. If you look at this car as a canvas ready for personalization, you've just unlocked half the fun and performance of it.

Nissan (maybe to a fault) I believe left the car with a lot on the table. Suspension, exhaust sizing, tires, etc are all on the more relaxed side rather than outright aggressive, but in my head canon, throwing on some PS4S or Sport Cup 2's and other minor additions will give a great OEM+ feel to it. I didn't just buy the car, I bought the experience of owning it.
Drive it like you stole it ... love this car.
 

bhamvett

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The Z is plenty fast. On par with my previous. 21 Supra. Not as fast as my C8. And damn close to my C7.
 

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I know this is a little late, but I'm a new member here. I'm in process of building a 2024 Nismo Z (brand spankin' new). Two questions. One, does this item work with the Nismo Z's configuration? And two, I'm leaning more towards a high end build (goal is 600-700whp). If you have any recommendations, I'm all ears. I have extensive experience in building blown/boosted V8 engines, but this is my first foray into Japanese style V6s, so I'm taking some time to learn the platform before I commit to a full send type build.
 

ZMidlife

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I know this is a little late, but I'm a new member here. I'm in process of building a 2024 Nismo Z (brand spankin' new). Two questions. One, does this item work with the Nismo Z's configuration? And two, I'm leaning more towards a high end build (goal is 600-700whp). If you have any recommendations, I'm all ears. I have extensive experience in building blown/boosted V8 engines, but this is my first foray into Japanese style V6s, so I'm taking some time to learn the platform before I commit to a full send type build.
You'll need aftermarket turbos to hit these #s.
The stock turbos are damn near in the center island of the compressor map.
Better intakes, turbos, fuel, exhaust and cooling.
 

Xylander

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You'll need aftermarket turbos to hit these #s.
The stock turbos are damn near in the center island of the compressor map.
Better intakes, turbos, fuel, exhaust and cooling.
I agree. I've already looked into a pair of Garretts for the build. As I've been doing research, the more I settle on, the more I realize that Z1's build is fairly similar. My main hangup right now is on the trans/driveshaft/axle half shafts. I'm pretty confident I can work with a shop to square away the power, but as a car, this thing will also be a daily. So, I'm going to build this thing out to be overbuilt and bulletproof. The DS might be OK with this build, but I think I'm going to end up overspeccing the half shafts and the trans past their torque limits.

I'll reach out to some performance shops and see what they recommend and go from there. Always open to suggestions as well :)
 

ZMidlife

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I'll reach out to some performance shops and see what they recommend and go from there. Always open to suggestions as well :)
[/QUOTE]
@Racebox
 
 






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