CZP Heat Exchanger Install

[thesilverbullet]

This was not a bad install and the CZP is a perfect fit - no issue with fitment at all…

Here are my notes & pics on the install. I reviewed the installation instructions for CZP, AMS, Z1 and Mishimoto. Also watched a couple videos on how to remove the bumper.

- i disconnected the battery
- I did not remove the wheels or wheel liners to remove the bumper.
- i did not drain the coolant and did not pull a vacuum to refill. Instead i used a couple of hose clamps recommend by @2Cool and pre-filled the new heat exchanger (also recommend by 2cool) with coolant thru the hose connection ports and used tapered plugs to prevent the coolant from leaking. I used the same plugs to minimize coolant leaking when removing the stock heat exchanger.
- i did not unplug the radar sensor.
- i used a big a$$ HF syringe to top off the heat exchanger thru the bleeder port. maybe 4-6oz to top off.



hose clamps - BILITOOLS 4pcs Hose Pinch Off... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CQYDLY26?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

HF syringe - https://www.harborfreight.com/lubricant-suction-gun-59513.html

HF plugs - https://www.harborfreight.com/silicone-rubber-plug-and-cap-set-116-piece-70792.html

 

[trackratZ]

Awesome write-up, leaving most connections intact! My next to tackle, CZP has good products, and the Z needs it in hot So CA once more tracking happens next year.

What was the appx time for the install and did you have to bleed any air even after pre-filling the HX?

 

[thesilverbullet]

I did it in ~4 hours. I’m guessing a shop could do this in 1-1.5 hours easy.

i maybe loss <8oz of coolant total from removing the stock HX and most of that was from the HX. Maybe ~2oz from the clamped hoses.

After installing, I removed the bleeder valve to top off - it took maybe 3-4oz. The plugs minimized the coolant loss from reconning the hoses.

 

[KrackaC8]

You're making me regret not tackling my own! Did you add any type of coolant booster into the system to increase efficiency/thermal transfer?

 

[thesilverbullet]

You're making me regret not tackling my own! Did you add any type of coolant booster into the system to increase efficiency/thermal transfer?

I did not - i used the cheap $20 gal. blue nissan coolant - lol. I still may do it. i’m surprised the chemistry is not standard for all coolants since max cooling is the purpose..

 

[KrackaC8]

I did not - i used the cheap $20 gal. blue nissan coolant - lol. I still may do it. i’m surprised the chemistry is not standard for all coolants since max cooling is the purpose..

OEM engineers are tasked with "good enough" at the lowest price possible.

 

[Osage]

OEM engineers are tasked with "good enough" at the lowest price possible.

My man, can you advise what type of coolant booster to use? I am getting the Mishimoto installed in a few weeks...

 

[KrackaC8]

My man, can you advise what type of coolant booster to use? I am getting the Mishimoto installed in a few weeks...

Redline WaterWetter is my choice as I've been running it for 2+ decades in everything I own. I have it in both of the Z's coolant systems and my Jeeps at the moment. Amsoil, Royal Purple, and others also make similar products...but Redline has been the one I've had the most experience with. Heck, before these became available we'd just add a few drops of dishsoap into the system to loosen the coolant's surface tension!

 

[el mágico]

Nice. I installed the CZP heatX and I added wetterwater. I need the pump controller now. I just want to go with the Z1 version, but it's been out since who knows when

 

[Who.Am.Eye.2716]

My man, can you advise what type of coolant booster to use? I am getting the Mishimoto installed in a few weeks...

Redline Waterwetter is the Bees Knees for racecar drivers. Since racecars cant have coolant, its added to distilled water for the extra cooling.

 

[Z-Nismo]

Just read this post, and the water wetter talk. I worked for a chemical company that sold commercial dishwasher chemicals for several years. The additive for getting spot free glasses was called a rinse additive, the terminology was the same wetter water , but what it really did was reduce the surface tension of the rinse water to not allow water beads to form and dry leaving residual minerals thus spots. Pretty much the same as car washes with the spot free rinse. The water sheets off instead. Home dishwashers also have a small reservoir for rinse aid, this is basically the same, doesn’t foam, and performs the function. I know on dump and fill 90 second commercial dishwashers we would pump in about a ml or 2 maximum with its ~1-1/2 gallons of water to get the results we were after, basically a few drops. If this is all it takes to help the heat exchangers, it could become a very low cost alternative that a lot of households would already have, or a quick visit to a supermarket IMHO.

 

[KyleWI]

Just read this post, and the water wetter talk. I worked for a chemical company that sold commercial dishwasher chemicals for several years. The additive for getting spot free glasses was called a rinse additive, the terminology was the same wetter water , but what it really did was reduce the surface tension of the rinse water to not allow water beads to form and dry leaving residual minerals thus spots. Pretty much the same as car washes with the spot free rinse. The water sheets off instead. Home dishwashers also have a small reservoir for rinse aid, this is basically the same, doesn’t foam, and performs the function. I know on dump and fill 90 second commercial dishwashers we would pump in about a ml or 2 maximum with its ~1-1/2 gallons of water to get the results we were after, basically a few drops. If this is all it takes to help the heat exchangers, it could become a very low cost alternative that a lot of households would already have, or a quick visit to a supermarket IMHO.

Basically that's all it is, works better with 100% distilled water than 50/50.