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I think a lot of people are unrealistic with the current price of manufacturing and want like 350Z prices. The Z is priced well and has tiers for different flavors of budget. Not speaking about dealership markup, that's just greed. If they want to make more money, they should try to sell value.

The VIN is legit, so good chance it's real.

Lots of coasting instead of full sending it, throttle -> brake -> trail brake

Going to Carbotech now saves you the hassle of having to remove a ton of brake compound from your rotors. Especially after a track day, they will be covered in pad transfer from the OEM pads. The GT-R fluid from what I read is fine, exceeds DOT4 standards. But I would consider SRF next.

Adding the brake ducting?

The one my dealer says they can get for me is red. And they were saying Pearl White is out there just hard to get.

I have Paragon 2-piece rotors and was using Carbotech XP10s with it. Only had an issue with the fronts, and it was the hottest day I've ever ran the Z on the track (90°F ambient temp). I do not have brake ducts like the OP however. As far as driver mod, I have an (instructor / coach) / lap...

Brake fluid and pads minimum. I can't stress OEM pads are not adequate. I saw another thread where someone had Total brake fade. I gave OEMs a shot in a pinch and had the exact same issue with Castrol SRF.

I have this exact same issue and am just contemplating saying screw the dust boots, or what is left of them right now. There are now Titanium shims by Z1, which could / should help keep the heat within the pads. I am getting rid of this Z for a NISMO MT, so I don't want to toss the money at it...

Maybe that's another requirement, mine was running. I was using a VIAIR to fill the pressure. It was great as I was filling the front tires too, and I didn't know of that "feature".

It also honks when you fill it up to the correct pressure only after the TPMS warning is initiated.

Look who's back.

Seems like it could be acceptable? If you're switching to something like Castrol SRF, you will want to do more than this to ensure you eliminate all the DOT4 fluid. Also, from the 370z the bleed order is RR→ FL → RL → FR, so I have been doing this for the RZ34 with the Negative battery terminal...

I got an idle that bounces between 800-700, and sounds like it needs an idle air control valve like back when that was an issue with cars, after filling up with some "93" at the track. The fuel starvation issue on these cars makes tracking them annoying, so glad 27' is fixing this.

My dealer said they did not receive pricing yet, they asked.

My dealer is likely getting me Red/Black variant M/T. I asked for Pearl White/Black, but they said it's unlikely, so I accepted the Red. They don't even have an invoice for the car yet or know what MSRP will be.

I know you're basing it off of track days, but do you know approx how many miles you're going between changes. Also, how many sessions per track day? Assuming the standard 2 / 2.5 hours (4-5 sessions). I've switched over to RL MT-85 & 75W-90 GL5 for my application, but haven't changed and have...

This is accurate as far as some variation with TW rating, but I have not ever seen a tire deviate that much, normally like 200, 220, 240 or something minor. Ideal setups are "square" for track days at least. Which is not the Z, but oh well, it does fine. Something like drag racing, this could...

Pretty sure, same as the resistor for the poppers: https://a.co/d/0eqaSzTE

It would be good if anyone can source the connector with some pigtails and just solder it and shrink tube instead of just trying to plug those pins in. If they unseat, you will be buying a daily consult membership or a Chinese scantool with Nissan equivalent software on it. - Also, I'm looking...