Hit a deer, hood poppers deployed

[splatrd]

Only 1/2 mile from home just getting dark and I hit a baby deer. Poor thing died. Impact was not that great as I had slowed down after seeing the mother. However, the hood pedestrian actuators deployed. Beyond that the only real damage I can find was the license plate bracket broke off. I had to drive back to scene to retrieve it. After spending the morning searching here and on Google, I can't find much information about replacing them. I worked in a body shop, so feel fairly confident I can do the job. I just wanted to know if anyone else has done this themselves? I would prefer to not run it thru my insurance since I have $1000 deductible and already made a claim a couple months ago for tree falling on my house. I found vendor online that has a used set for $849, but they don't look exactly like the ones on my car (at least what I can see without removing them). Even the ones on Nissan parts site don't look same either. I will try to remove the hood and poppers this weekend to see if I can find a part number.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[FSUZ33]

Check HERE

 

[up4speed]

I believe that you will have to also replace the computer as well as the poppers. If I'm correct, the computer is under the rear part of the center console between the seats. All that said. I believe there are companies that can "reset" the poppers and reprogram the computer. If I'm going to guess out of memory, I think the poppers were about $275 each to reset, and the computer was about $150.
Technically, you can get the $150 pop up eliminator kit (a resistor to avoid error light), and remove the deployed poppers, then just deal with the computer reprogram. So, you can be back in action for about $300 if you do the labor. But you obviously will be missing the hood popper safety feature.

 

[up4speed]

Pop up eliminator:
https://www.nengun.com/top-secret/g...32BWG0EpZn4SkOcG9GpcGDu87qGC3bL_o0-zNdADM1dgL

Repair for pop up actuator. Doesn't show new Z, but you can call:
https://www.myairbags.com/product/nissan-350z-2019-2022-active-hood-pop-up-pyro-actuator-repair/

Same company does air bag modules (I think same module used for poppers). You would have to call about poppers for the new Z:
https://www.myairbags.com/repair-reset-srs-airbag-control-module/

Not a US based company, and don't list the new Z specifically, but gives you the idea:
https://crashdata.co.uk/product/253...ine-hood-module-repair-and-reset-978780-0963/

 

[haohmaru]

I've got a set of the pop up eliminators and just need to install them. I can sell you my actuators if you want them.

 

[FSUZ33]

First thing I would do is remove the wiper valance, etc., and see if they can be easily removed (lthough they may need to be removed from the wheel wells, idk). If so, that will allow you to drop the hood back to the normal position to make it drivable. If you feel like you can remove them on your own, and do, then you know you can handle the reinstall. And it’s just a matter of shelling out cash for a new set, used, rework yours or install a delete kit. I think new ones from Nissan are over $1k ea.

EDIT:
Currently $1,300 ea from parts.nissanusa.com
Found them at another OEM Nissan parts website for $500 off, @ $790 ea. Not sure if it’s a reputable site so not posting a link.

Nissan pn’s
B5344-1EM1A (right)
B5345-1EM1A (left)

 

[up4speed]

One more reminder...Very important!
If you disconnect the poppers with the battery attached, you will get an error that only a dealer can clear.
If you replace the poppers, or add pop up disablers, you must disconnect the battery first, then only re-connect the battery after the new poppers, or the disabler resistor is plugged in.

 

[alienpoker]

Please note if you don’t read other threads:
I’d like to emphasize what @up4speed said.
These hood poppers are explosive devices, so you need to be careful. They are part of the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) airbag system, denoted by yellow plugs. That’s the standard color in the industry. Do not work on them without removing the battery negative cable and then leave doors open and wait 15 mins to be sure all capacitors are discharged.
Don’t reconnect the battery until you have a ‘delete kit’ installed. It tricks the BCM into thinking the poppers are still there. It’s probably just a resistor & plug for each side of the popper harness.

My apologies to anyone who understood this info already. Source: An ACRT (Collision Repair) Tech with iCar certification.

@haohmaru Any chance you (or someone else who buys a kit) are willing to measure the resistance of the replacement plug with a multimeter to confirm the ohms used? I don’t want to spread incorrect info, I do know 2 ohms (1/2 watt resistor would work) would be a common resistance for airbag deletes that trick the system. But it may vary depending on the explosive charge used.

A side note: You can Watch them pop when a Z left a Texas Car Exhibition. If you haven’t seen this shameful accident, you should.

I almost lost my 2025 Nismo almost exactly the same way just yesterday. I drove through a tiny amount of water flowing down a curbside. I turned and then accelerated too quickly before the tires had dried out. The tires spun & the rear stepped out hard, but traction control kicked in & saved my stupid ass. When the stock Dunlops get wet, they slide like crazy. Plenty of tread left, just over 3K miles on the tires. More than 1/2 of that was gentle break-in, no burnouts. They will be replaced ASAP, and until then I’m going to be very careful in the rain.

 

[RadzShadow]

Please pay close attention to the Nengun link, I emailed them directly and the kit is NOT for the RZ34 model.

 

[up4speed]

Please pay close attention to the Nengun link, I emailed them directly and the kit is NOT for the RZ34 model.

I can attest that they work. I have them on my car for several months already. No error lights, and no problems (yet, lol)
Sometimes companies don't list compatible cars, if they didn't get the chance to test them on that specific vehicle. It happened to me with the AWE exhaust as well. The Nismo wasn't listed on their site as a compatible vehicle. However, since the OEM part# was exactly the same, I deduced that it should work perfectly, and it did. AWE admitted that the only reason it wasn't listed is because they didn't have a Nismo to test it on, so they didn't want to confirm it works on the web site (even though they verbally said it should work, so I ordered). I let them know that it worked, so not sure if they updated their site based on my confirmation.
I assume that the hood poppers may be a similar situation. They say it works on the GTR, but they apparently didn't test them on the Z, so it's not on the compatibility list. I purchased them because another forum member said that they worked for them. Now I can also confirm that they worked for me as well.
As Alienpoker also mentioned, if you install these, please be VERY careful, and follow the instructions word for word, or you can have problems, and it may even be dangerous!

 

[splatrd]

Check HERE

Thanks for the link, I had already read through this post. Just looking for more specific information.

 

[splatrd]

Please note if you don’t read other threads:
I’d like to emphasize what @up4speed said.
These hood poppers are explosive devices, so you need to be careful. They are part of the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) airbag system, denoted by yellow plugs. That’s the standard color in the industry. Do not work on them without removing the battery negative cable and then leave doors open and wait 15 mins to be sure all capacitors are discharged.
Don’t reconnect the battery until you have a ‘delete kit’ installed. It tricks the BCM into thinking the poppers are still there. It’s probably just a resistor & plug for each side of the popper harness.

My apologies to anyone who understood this info already. Source: An ACRT (Collision Repair) Tech with iCar certification.

@haohmaru Any chance you (or someone else who buys a kit) are willing to measure the resistance of the replacement plug with a multimeter to confirm the ohms used? I don’t want to spread incorrect info, I do know 2 ohms (1/2 watt resistor would work) would be a common resistance for airbag deletes that trick the system. But it may vary depending on the explosive charge used.

A side note: You can Watch them pop when a Z left a Texas Car Exhibition. If you haven’t seen this shameful accident, you should.

I almost lost my 2025 Nismo almost exactly the same way just yesterday. I drove through a tiny amount of water flowing down a curbside. I turned and then accelerated too quickly before the tires had dried out. The tires spun & the rear stepped out hard, but traction control kicked in & saved my stupid ass. When the stock Dunlops get wet, they slide like crazy. Plenty of tread left, just over 3K miles on the tires. More than 1/2 of that was gentle break-in, no burnouts. They will be replaced ASAP, and until then I’m going to be very careful in the rain.

Yes, I do understand the dangers of working on these things. I was an autobody technician in the 90's when airbags first came out as standard equipment. Everyone was afraid to work on them, but if you followed the manual procedure, it was not an issue. This is why I turned to forum members to ask for their experiences with these. I could not find definitive information as to what all had to be replaced. I met with a body shop owner, but he had never worked on one before and was not interested in taking on the repair. He was nice enough to print out some info from his Alldata system. So I went ahead and removed the popper yesterday and am now trying to decide if I want to order a used set or just the eliminator kit.

 

[splatrd]

I am able to report that the hood hinges are designed to be reset and do not need to be replaced. I lifted the hood and pushed the hinge back into position and then used a pair of pliers to flip the lever back in place. There is a tab that sits above the popper that rotates and allows hood to pop up when deployed. I read through the information from Alldata, and it does not specifically mention having to replace any sensors or having to hook up to Nissan computer to reset it. This is the part that I am looking for advice from those that have had their poppers deployed. Did you have to go to dealer for a reset?

 

[splatrd]

I've got a set of the pop up eliminators and just need to install them. I can sell you my actuators if you want them.

I just checked the Nengun site and says it will ship 14 days after payment. I am interested in buying from you if you would like to send a private message.

 

[CPerdomo]

Only 1/2 mile from home just getting dark and I hit a baby deer. Poor thing died. Impact was not that great as I had slowed down after seeing the mother. However, the hood pedestrian actuators deployed. Beyond that the only real damage I can find was the license plate bracket broke off. I had to drive back to scene to retrieve it. After spending the morning searching here and on Google, I can't find much information about replacing them. I worked in a body shop, so feel fairly confident I can do the job. I just wanted to know if anyone else has done this themselves? I would prefer to not run it thru my insurance since I have $1000 deductible and already made a claim a couple months ago for tree falling on my house. I found vendor online that has a used set for $849, but they don't look exactly like the ones on my car (at least what I can see without removing them). Even the ones on Nissan parts site don't look same either. I will try to remove the hood and poppers this weekend to see if I can find a part number.

Any help would be appreciated.

Very sorry...