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Which Brake Pads for speeds 130MPH+ ?

thesilverbullet

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Right but I'm saying stopping a 2800lbs car is not the same as stopping a 3600lbs car. You daily the Z with xp10 and xp8s? Stock rotors?
~50% daily and they got a workout with a 8 mile of stretch of twisties. bone stock brakes except for the pads - never had any concerns with them on the street. i didnt feel like i gave up anything over stock pads. i loved them - the harder i pushed them, the better.
 

traska_rz34

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Like @KrackaC8 said, I just put on the Powerstop Z26 brake set with new pads and rotors. I mainly did it for looks if I'm dealing totally transparent. Obviously super early but I like the look a lot.

IMG_8042.webp


One thing I thought was interesting is that I noticed about 1/2" on every rotor isn't making contact with the new pads. Just measured and the contact area of the new rotors is indeed 1/2" bigger than OEM, meaning the pads don't make contact with the entire rotor.

IMG_8074.webp
 

KrackaC8

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Like @KrackaC8 said, I just put on the Powerstop Z26 brake set with new pads and rotors. I mainly did it for looks if I'm dealing totally transparent. Obviously super early but I like the look a lot.

IMG_8042.webp


One thing I thought was interesting is that I noticed about 1/2" on every rotor isn't making contact with the new pads. Just measured and the contact area of the new rotors is indeed 1/2" bigger than OEM, meaning the pads don't make contact with the entire rotor.

IMG_8074.webp
Exact same way on the PowerStop C8 Corvette rear rotors!
 

FSUZ33

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Just FYI, modern common knowledge for track driving is to not run drilled rotors due to the tendency of them cracking at the holes like so:
1777943780884-sf.webp


It's best just to get vented rotors, slotted if you so desire.
Researched this in the last couple of months, as I was under the impression that slotted (of whatever variation) was preferred due to drilled rotors cracking. It is true that drilled are much more prone to cracking, but once you get into high-tier rotors it's not as much of a problem due to different (better) metal and manufacturing processes (heat treatment during mfg, etc...). Fortunately most brake rotors come from a handful of places, so the casting process is somewhat limited, but the material spec, machining, manufacturing, quality and inspection processes/control can be vastly different. My go-to is there's a cost for parts, and if something that shouldn't be cheap is cheap, or if it's significantly cheaper than the industry standard, there's a reason it's cheap. The flip-side of that is just because it's expensive doesn't mean it's good.

When I think of cheap brake rotors and other parts, I picture those youtube shorts that always pop up of some middle eastern guy sitting in the dirt banging out brake rotors between his flip-flopped feet.

Bottom-line, do a little research and buy the best parts you can afford, especially if there's a safety element to it, like brakes, tires, suspension, etc.

Disclaimer: This, coming from the guy that bit on Z1 forged FUCAs. Haven't run them, and not saying there is or will be anything wrong with them. Nor have I found any negativity on the forged version. But the tubular version has all kinds of dark history, and at this point, hindsight, I wish I had gone with a known-good brand.
 

dogunbound

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Researched this in the last couple of months, as I was under the impression that slotted (of whatever variation) was preferred due to drilled rotors cracking. It is true that drilled are much more prone to cracking, but once you get into high-tier rotors it's not as much of a problem due to different (better) metal and manufacturing processes (heat treatment during mfg, etc...). Fortunately most brake rotors come from a handful of places, so the casting process is somewhat limited, but the material spec, machining, manufacturing, quality and inspection processes/control can be vastly different. My go-to is there's a cost for parts, and if something that shouldn't be cheap is cheap, or if it's significantly cheaper than the industry standard, there's a reason it's cheap. The flip-side of that is just because it's expensive doesn't mean it's good.

When I think of cheap brake rotors and other parts, I picture those youtube shorts that always pop up of some middle eastern guy sitting in the dirt banging out brake rotors between his flip-flopped feet.

Bottom-line, do a little research and buy the best parts you can afford, especially if there's a safety element to it, like brakes, tires, suspension, etc.

Disclaimer: This, coming from the guy that bit on Z1 forged FUCAs. Haven't run them, and not saying there is or will be anything wrong with them. Nor have I found any negativity on the forged version. But the tubular version has all kinds of dark history, and at this point, hindsight, I wish I had gone with a known-good brand.
Yeah. A lot of people just run blanks or slotted at all the HPDEs I go to. Quite a few run the cheapest shit they can find and say they have been happy with that. If you are tracking, the rotors, pads, fluid, tries, etc... are consumables that disappear very very fast. I've ran through 250$ pads in 2 weekends, and the shitty rotors from z1 in 1 day. Just got to experiment to find what I like.
 
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traska_rz34

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Thanks @FSUZ33 ! It's tamper indicator paint. I used it the first time I put the spacers on to be able to see if any of the nuts shift or move over time.
 

FSUZ33

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Exactly. There's a ton of names for it. Mine's always been "torque seal" which doesn't torque or seal, but it does tell you if something's moved.
Top-knotch work!
 

FSUZ33

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Yeah. A lot of people just run blanks or slotted at all the HPDEs I go to. Quite a few run the cheapest shit they can find and say they have been happy with that. If you are tracking, the rotors, pads, fluid, tries, etc... are consumables that disappear very very fast. I've ran through 250$ pads in 2 weekends, and the shitty rotors from z1 in 1 day. Just got to experiment to find what I like.
Not sure about online retailers and bargain rotors, but you can get a full set of OEM rotors from Nissan (not including tax or shipping):
$450 - Sport
$472 - Performance
$468 - NISMO
 

dogunbound

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Not sure about online retailers and bargain rotors, but you can get a full set of OEM rotors from Nissan (not including tax or shipping):
$450 - Sport
$472 - Performance
$468 - NISMO
Much cheaper just to rock auto that.
 
 






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