This particular dealer is certified to install Nismo and Z1 parts. So...? Who knows, tho. I have no idea if they preloaded the suspension before torquing things down. I will certainly mention it to the local dealer I'm going to on Thursday. Thanks.
It’s not that they “won’t work” as far as can not be installed or adjusted at all. It’s that when you lower the car, the ends of the bar will be angled upward. Ideally, you would lengthen the end links to get the sway bar to be parallel to the ground, however, with the rear of the Z, the camber arms are in the way so this cannot be achieved. With a lowered car, in general, geometry is compromised in many cases. With the Z, this issue is one that rears its ugly head. I’m starting to believe this is why a lot of guys that track their car say to run as thick of a bar up front as you can but to retain the factory rear bar. When a sway bars ends are at an angle it causes the bar to perform stiffer than it would if it were properly adjusted. I am looking into rear spindle replacements to remedy this issue with geometry correction but I’m in a weird place right now where I’m contemplating making a vehicle change in which case it would be counterproductive for me to move fwd. if you’re going to be driving aggressively, I would suggest a front bar of your choice and keep the factory rear bar. You could get adjustable end links up front but it’s not necessary at all unless you lower your car way over an inch. There is no binding or noise at all and it performs flawlessly with the factory end links. (I believe people that have issues up front have installed the front bar upside down which causes binding) get the necessary arms to get a proper alignment (proper as in NOT back to factory specs). Up front you want more negative camber than what is called for from the factory and more negative camber will plant the car proper in a corner and get rid to the cars major under steer issues upon initial turn in even on factory tires. Once you’ve done all this, based on your tire size choices, if you end up with under steer, THEN, get the rear adjustable bar. But only then. At this point I wish this would have been explained to me. I had to find out the hard way. With the geometry in the rear being lowered about 1 1/4” and having the front bar in the tightest setting and the rear in the loose setting, if ANY throttle is inputted in a corner at all, the ass slides out. Company’s produce parts to sell parts. They care about making money. Just because something is available for purchase, doesn’t mean it’s needed. (Write that down).
) Not necessarily in that order but that would be the list I would pull from. The KW will probably feel more plush due to being a twin tube design though. You will get a good ride and the car will handle better and be more composed at the same time while gaining better dampers than factory that are tuned to the spring rates.
From what I’ve read lately it seems the HKS Hipermax S would be a good fit for what you’re after.
What are the offsets & size of the DR57? I have the same set but on a Sport trim. I want to get a brake kit soon. Does the rim have a big clearance with the current brake from the Performance trim?The subject of coilovers drives me nuts. I was and still am really going through the idea of adding coilovers. In the mean time I just installed lowering springs. My goal was really simple lower the car just a moderate amount basically closing the gap , improve handling and keep an enjoyable ride. So for now I ended up holding off on coilovers and added “Ark Performance GTS Lowering Springs”(read about them here) “SPL Front Upper Control Arms” & ”SPLTitanium Rear Camber Links” Actually I can’t deny it actually rides pretty well, corners better than ever and ended up lowering the car just about where I wanted. (Not sure about the exact measurements) need to find that out. Also, no issues with clunking noises or anything strange coming from underneath.
I’ve been talking to one of the big Z parts retailers about adding the Ohlins DFV. Not cheap but I’m really more concerned about ending up w/ a car that looks and rides the way I want it. No track just spirited road. I’m willing to spend the money if I can achieve better than what I have with Lowering Springs. I know that most the guys here on the forum are not fans of Lowering Springs and I’m willing to switch but before doing that I want to be certain I can get at least what I have already.
I’m a total noob w/ coilovers and after reading so much on the subject both here and elsewhere I’m not sure if I really understand anymore than when I started. Not many photos since lowering it but found a couple. I'm switching over to the Nismo LM-RS1 Antracite (above) so when I get those installed I'll be back tackling the issue of coilovers...again.
So I have added the two piece rotors (Z1) on those but really not effecting anything else. As far as the DR 57 wheels they are F+25 and R+12. As far as clearance they fit fine. Sure the caliper is close but absolutely no problem at all. Now that I'm adding the Nismos I have kind of taken it a step further and went +12 all the way around. Spoke to an owner w/ the same +12 all the way around and they fit like a glove. Wish I could tell you the size of the Michelin PS4 . I'll need to look it up to see what I ended up with..
19" rims right? I have the same offsets.
Yes. 19 inch. Correction they are +25 on the front and +12 rear
Thanks. I noticed the rear have those rotors
.Let's see some photos when you get 'em mounted. Like to see how it turns out for you. Also, that Big Brake upgrade. Before and after photos FTW. How they pop with whatever color Z you're rockin'. I can tell you that on a White Z....they are straight-upThanks. I noticed the rear have those rotors
. Some say I'm nuts for changing out of these because they look so super nice on Gun Metallic. True..but lookin' forward to see how my new Anthracite Nismos will look too. Showing off those two-piece sprinkles. 