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What did you do with your Z today? 🙋🏻‍♂️

FSUZ33

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I also have the z1 5mm spacers. They said if I could get 6 or 7 full rotations on lugs it'd be fine, how many did you get? I haven't had the opportunity to swap yet as my wheels won't fit without full suspension stuff installed (at least on the 370z, haven't tried on the Z yet)
Posted yesterday (above, and on a spacer thread) that I have a vibration, and I'm 99% certain it's coming from the spacers. Plan to mic the spacers for thickness/coplanarity, but I assume they're fine, and the issue is one or more wheels aren't properly centered.

I didn't count lug nut rotations. Eyeballed a spot on the socket sleeve, where it was when the nut caught the first thread and after it was snug, which was about 3/8" diff. Although there seemed to be enough hub protruding to catch the wheel center, I suspect there wasn't. Going to do some fender measurements, remove all 4 and start over. Planning to remove one wheel, pop the center cap out, remount to see whether it's touching the hub. Wheels centers have a chamfer, and I should have measured that vs the hub protrusion before mounting.
Hindsight :rolleyes:

I had a good 48 hours where I thought the 5mm spacers had quenched my thirst for spacers/fitment. NOW I'm back to swapping the studs and adding slip-on hubcentric spacers...mill extended studs to length (stock stud length + thickness of the spacer, then mill the rest off). IF I ever get to that point.

1. Ordered a catch can kit yesterday, and may configure some type of quick/easy drain line.
2. Undertray...leaning toward Z1, as the entire rear of the panel is removable, or moves out of the way. I prefer that over the removable cover on the CZP and Mishimoto trays. Ordered a used OEM NISMO undertray from Z1 (under $30), tried to make my own removable cover and screwed it up (the used one...never touched the one on my car).
3. Freakin' extended studs and spacers, I guess.
 

FSUZ33

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@FSUZ33
You torque the wheels to 80ft lbs?
Wrench is set to 90. You think lb/ft could be a factor?
I was surprised how little force it took to break the factory nuts loose. They were all tight, and all basically the same which made me feel better about it, but they weren't as tight as I'm used to for lug nuts.

In the air, all nuts hand tight, wiggled wheel to make sure the wheel was set, checked all for tightness again, then added 180 degrees with the torque wrench. Once on the ground, tightened all to 90 lb/ft.
 

Who.Am.Eye.2716

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Wrench is set to 90. You think lb/ft could be a factor?
Shouldnt matter. Some people dont use a torque wrench and the lugnuts can be tighten uneven. Which could cause the vibration.

Does it vibrate at certain speeds? What about when braking?
 

FSUZ33

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Shouldnt matter. Some people dont use a torque wrench and the lugnuts can be tighten uneven. Which could cause the vibration.

Does it vibrate at certain speeds? What about when braking?
To clarify, it's an annoying vibration, not a "can't even see out of the rearview mirror" shake.

Peak vibration is around 35 mph. I haven't noticed anything worse while braking, but haven't paid too much attention to that specifically. I assume because I haven't noticed, that it's safe to say braking doesn't make it worse. Will pay closer attention on the way home.

No highway travel since the change, and highest speed limit between home and work is 45. Vibration seems to start ramping up a little above 45, but haven't gone much faster than 50.
 

Nis Mo Z

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I'd pay those prices for legitimate replacement trim pieces made of carbon fiber, but as soon as I hear double sided tape I'm out. Would be nice if a vendor would actually make some decent quality pieces instead of charging a premium for something you'd find on temu.

Replacement pieces would likely cost a lot more if you ask me.
 

Nis Mo Z

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So my Z1 filters came today and I was disappointed to learn that the Nismo Z doesn’t have the same size filter as the other VR30’s. It’s a bit wider. I didn’t want to do any of the intakes because all I’ve read is stressful stories of the install.

IMG_2327.jpeg


IMG_2328.jpeg


IMG_2306.webp
 

kevinbonds

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Posted yesterday (above, and on a spacer thread) that I have a vibration, and I'm 99% certain it's coming from the spacers. Plan to mic the spacers for thickness/coplanarity, but I assume they're fine, and the issue is one or more wheels aren't properly centered.

I didn't count lug nut rotations. Eyeballed a spot on the socket sleeve, where it was when the nut caught the first thread and after it was snug, which was about 3/8" diff. Although there seemed to be enough hub protruding to catch the wheel center, I suspect there wasn't. Going to do some fender measurements, remove all 4 and start over. Planning to remove one wheel, pop the center cap out, remount to see whether it's touching the hub. Wheels centers have a chamfer, and I should have measured that vs the hub protrusion before mounting.
Hindsight :rolleyes:

I had a good 48 hours where I thought the 5mm spacers had quenched my thirst for spacers/fitment. NOW I'm back to swapping the studs and adding slip-on hubcentric spacers...mill extended studs to length (stock stud length + thickness of the spacer, then mill the rest off). IF I ever get to that point.

1. Ordered a catch can kit yesterday, and may configure some type of quick/easy drain line.
2. Undertray...leaning toward Z1, as the entire rear of the panel is removable, or moves out of the way. I prefer that over the removable cover on the CZP and Mishimoto trays. Ordered a used OEM NISMO undertray from Z1 (under $30), tried to make my own removable cover and screwed it up (the used one...never touched the one on my car).
3. Freakin' extended studs and spacers, I guess.
I won’t run spacers, they just always seem to be a problem. I have the CZP undershroud, and it’s an amazing piece, comes painted, no rivites and in my opinion being one piece is my preference. I think the CZP panel is a bit better quality then the Z1:
 

FSUZ33

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I won’t run spacers, they just always seem to be a problem. I have the CZP undershroud, and it’s an amazing piece, comes painted, no rivites and in my opinion being one piece is my preference. I think the CZP panel is a bit better quality then the Z1:
The hatch in the CZP panel seems small. It's big enough to get a tool in there to remove the filter? And big enough that the oil doesn't splash inside?

I won't be running spacers after this weekend.
I looked at Z1's website the other day and they do say that their 2.5mm and 5mm flat spacers leave enough hub to center the wheel. We'll see. First thing is removing the center caps while everything's in place to see if the wheel bore and hub are making contact. Only other thing I can think is to check thickness/coplanarity. Overall plan is to remove the spacers, regardless.

Goal was 10mm hubcentric spacers and extended studs, but now that I'm going through this I realize I need to quit fiddling around with it and be happy with the stock fitment. Not going to spend ~$150 + hours tearing all four corners apart just to end up with another vibration.

If it were any worse I'd need a Manziere.
1752175020196-b3.jpg
 

kevinbonds

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The hatch in the CZP panel seems small. It's big enough to get a tool in there to remove the filter? And big enough that the oil doesn't splash inside?

I won't be running spacers after this weekend.
I looked at Z1's website the other day and they do say that their 2.5mm and 5mm flat spacers leave enough hub to center the wheel. We'll see. First thing is removing the center caps while everything's in place to see if the wheel bore and hub are making contact. Only other thing I can think is to check thickness/coplanarity. Overall plan is to remove the spacers, regardless.

Goal was 10mm hubcentric spacers and extended studs, but now that I'm going through this I realize I need to quit fiddling around with it and be happy with the stock fitment. Not going to spend ~$150 + hours tearing all four corners apart just to end up with another vibration.

If it were any worse I'd need a Manziere.
1752175020196-b3.jpg
The removable panel on the CZP shroud is large, more than enough to change the filter with room to spare. I did not like the fact that the Z1 was two pieces, the CZP is very clean, and the fitment was perfect.
 

FSUZ33

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The removable panel on the CZP shroud is large, more than enough to change the filter with room to spare. I did not like the fact that the Z1 was two pieces, the CZP is very clean, and the fitment was perfect.
With the hatch concern cleared, the only other concern is that both CZP and Mishimoto offer one panel that based on the fitment lists, is for all 2023+ Z models. Z1's has one a NISMO-specific panel, and the non-NISMO says, "Does not fit NISMO bumpers."
I'll reach out to them, but do you know if the CZP panel fits the NISMO?
 

kevinbonds

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With the hatch concern cleared, the only other concern is that both CZP and Mishimoto offer one panel that based on the fitment lists, is for all 2023+ Z models. Z1's has one a NISMO-specific panel, and the non-NISMO says, "Does not fit NISMO bumpers."
I'll reach out to them, but do you know if the CZP panel fits the NISMO?
ahh good question, I’m not sure about the Nismo fitment, call CZP they have good CS.
 

trackratZ

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This thread should be titled "What did you do *with* your Z today?" Road trips should count. @ZillaZ , WDYT?
Edit: Spoke too soon :clap:

Where's that thread "with your Z today" thought there is one already? Would be cool to keep that going love seeing road trips and local drives.

Short phone clip


IMG_7880.jpg


IMG_7883.jpg
 
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