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Only ones I would trust are the EIbach. Just go on their website, search for the slip on's, they come with the studs, the spacers and studs are a machining work of art, made in Germany. This is the link for the 15MM and what I bought for the front...

I agree on the mustang, but man, what a platform. You can buy a five- or six-year-old mustang 6mt for peanuts slap a supercharger on it and run 10's.

If you’re dead set on the Nismo, go for it. But the thing about the Z, unlike some other sports cars, is that the Performance 6MT has basically the same drivetrain as the Nismo. Yes, Nissan says they improved the shifting feel, and yes, the Nismo makes a little more horsepower, but not enough...

I’ve owned several performance cars and tracked a few of them. I had a C6 Z06, which was an amazing car, but after 20–30 minutes on track, the oil temperatures were getting into unsafe territory. I also tracked an Audi RS4 and had cooling issues, and I had a 2013 GT500 that I took to the track...

I have the RSR springs, and the drop was perfect, and the ride is amazing. I think overall the spring rate is only 10-20% stiffer, which is all you really need on the stock shocks. It's really a solid set up and drops the rear a bit more then the front. Yes, you will need an alignment, I was...

I have 15mm front and 20mm rear with are perfect. I don't use bolt on spacers, I use the slip on style with extended studs. The 15mm in my opinion looks the best on the stock performance set up, but you need the proper studs and slip on style. I used the Eibachs, which come with high quality...

If I had the Nismo, I would not touch the wheels or the suspension. The only thing I would do, is a set of LDP's, a solid exhaust and a tune. Maybe a heat exchanger, but the Nismo has better colling factory. In my opinion, this is the best bang for the buck.

The manual car could not pass the drive by decibel test, so they had to put a larger muffler on it.

Easy fix. If it's the gauge pad, it easily pry's off with just some light upward pressure. It's two pieces attached with about 10 machine screws. Once you remove the dash pad, unscrew the two pieces, and install some insulating material between the two halves and screw back together. I did this...

Something is not right. With these cars, tuners keep the torque well below 500, pushing too much torque like that is risky on the stock fuel system. A health 93 octane tune seems to be mid 400 for HP and Torque. On the Auto's you can push a little more torque, but your numbers are off the charts.

If I was not in a rush, I would wait to see what the Concept Z kit ends up looking like. I would imagine it would be out soon but based on what we have seen it looks like the kit will be using Garrett G25-550s.

Why would you go 2.5 when better options exist in 3.0? The best ones on the market right now are the boosted 6 resonated 3 inch pipes, it will match up with any exhaust you have.

No, don't need to do anything special. I have 3 inch Boosted 6 LDP to a Megan Racing 2.5 y-pipe, the supplied gaskets work fine, don't overthink it.

I agree with you, and that is where I was. I had a 700HP GT500 and it was too much, so I wanted to get into something I could rev all the way to redline on the street and have fun. The one thing I will say, being a twin turbo, with a few mods you can make 430RWHP with an ECU tech tune and switch...

Get the Megan racing option, it's a bit more, but much higher quality and thousands of reviews.

The knocking of the exhaust is installer issue. It's a slip fit system, so tolerances stack as you get to the back towards the undercarriage brace. Make sure that the resonators are not under the brace that's the noise. On mine, we had to work with it on install to make sure the resonators...

You need a LPFP also. And it may give a little more power, but the key to E-30 is giving a little head room against detonation so you can run a bit more timing.

Bro, once again I am not going to debate, and yes you will window your block if you push too much boost on the stock turbos, the Q guys do it all the time, so it's best to keep it conservative. We have several people I know locally making well over 600-700WHP on these cars with the proper...

So now you see the light, you cannot make 500WHP on the stock turbos reliably. The best bang for this car is the following mods. Heat Exchanger, Intakes, LDP, Exhaust and tune. On 93 without pushing the car too hard you are at 420-430WHP and 450TQ. The issue with these cars is once you push the...

Do you have a Dyno chart, haven’t seen one at 500 yet, would love to see with stock turbos.