Since my dealer charged me 230$ to disable the ASE, I will do it myself

[KrackaC8]

Long story short, I wanted real engine/exhaust noises, not fake. I've achieved that goal with intake + exhaust at which point ASE only becomes distractive & annoying. On a stock car, it's fine.

That gas filler audible indicator is brilliant!

 

[Dying Star]

Can I ask, why do people want to disconnect the ASE anyway? Does it cause issues with the stereo system? I have a 2019 Titan that has a noise from the filler pipe when you fill up the truck. Everybody when back to the dealer to get it fixed. The funny thing is, it was a audible indicator. As the tank would fill the pitch of the noise will change as the tank fills up. For some reason that bothered people similar to the ASE. Maybe I am just old, but the ASE seems perfectly harmless, but I could be wrong. Can someone explain to me the detractors of this system?

When you compare the Bose system to other nissan factory Bose systems on different models like, pathfinder, maxima, etc the quality is night and day.
Sound quality is completely flat on high volume and speed volume enabled on the z.

Disabling them will get you a noticeable sound boost and quality, which is then we noticed how much power was wasted on the fake sounds from trying to boost them from the mics all over the cabin, etc.

without anc the cabin’s just loud.

 

[alienpoker]

When you compare the Bose system to other nissan factory Bose systems on different models like, pathfinder, maxima, etc the quality is night and day.
Sound quality is completely flat on high volume and speed volume enabled on the z.

Disabling them will get you a noticeable sound boost and quality, which is then we noticed how much power was wasted on the fake sounds from trying to boost them from the mics all over the cabin, etc.

without anc the cabin’s just loud.

^^This - Plus the annoying rumble if you swap out the “Spare Tire Subwoofer” for anything else. Usually they are active Subs (where the Z stock sub is passive). Once you have amplified Bass response, the ASE becomes unbearable. I hear it as ‘fluttering’ - like when you drive with windows open on the freeway in some cars and hit a particular resonance.

The Z has unbearable audio anyway, if you enjoy listening to decent systems and can hear the difference. Nissan really dropped the ball on the Bose Audio they went with for the Z.

 

[JChandler82]

@Dying Star Just wanted to say thank you for the pictures and info on removing the mic wires from the amp plug. Very helpful! I was able to do that in preparation for my sub install. Appreciate it, brother.

 

[RadzShadow]

Good to know it's that simple, thank you! You used the Consult III?

Yes and had no issues, other than the GUI is ugly AF

 

[David Montgomery]

Okay, I just finished turning off ASE/ASC and ANC using the VXDIAG method. I just wanted to stop in here and give a run down of everything I did to make it as clear as possible, because I put myself in pain by fiddling in the wrong directions.

So, first off, I got the SE version - the VXDIAG VCX SE for Nissan - though you can save money by getting the VCX Nano, but you will be limited to connecting wirelessly, where as the SE comes with USB and Ethernet connecting options, which makes things easier and you won't have to worry as much about dropping connection or wondering if things are connected in the first place. SE costed me $210 bucks with a 20% off discount code (I won't bother posting it because it may not be applicable by the time you are reading this. It does seem to be one of those products that is perpetually on some sort of holiday sale.) It probably cost about the same as a visit to the dealership, but is worth it to me for not having to deal with said dealership and also for any future use cases.

With that out of the way, the first thing you need to do is hurry up and DO NOTHING. When you first get your product in the mail, you're going to want to get the VX software and get going, but you need to immediately calm down and do nothing. Instead you need to send VXDIAG an email requesting download links to the Nissan's Consult III software.


Send an email to:
[email protected]
Say the following:



They replied to me later in the day with links to a PDF that had a walkthrough on how to download the Consult III package. If installed correctly this will not require any logins, only the hardware and the software provided.

On a laptop with Windows 10 (it may work on other Windows (7, 8, 11), but it is suggested that you use Windows 10).

In the download you will have a number of files and folders, including a video and a text guide into how to install VX Manager and Consult III correctly. PLEASE follow these steps exactly. If you don't, Consult will not be able to recognize the VX device and you will have wasted your time. If you mess this up, it isn't the end of the world, I will include some fixes to problems you might run into at the end of this post.

Note: You are going to probably want to be inside with the good connection for the first few parts of the installation. Mostly because there are two specific files that are going to give you a warning message on your laptop if you aren't plugged into a power source. Maybe its because the laptop I borrowed was old and had to use a 120W plug to charge instead of your typical USB-C, this may not be a problem for you but it was for me. Then one of the steps will tell you to plug in your device and thats when you head to the car.

Also, just turn the car on fully, just to make sure your systems are always going to be on and don't have a chance to time out and turn off again. Idk if this happens in the Z, but it is common in other vehicles (my GR86) when in "Accessory Mode".

Once you've installed everything as instructed in the provided text instructions (the video is also very helpful if you are like me and are more of a visual learner) you will likely now be inside of the Consult III software. Once you are in there and have everything connected you will need to navigate through Consult using the following path:

1. Diagnosis (One System)
- It was either at this point or just before that you will be asked to identify your make and model. Since you are not logged into a Nissan network, you can't use the automatic ID using your VIN, so you will just need to find the Z, select it, and select the correct year. You may need to give it a second before the Select button is active, if it never becomes active to click then you may need to select something else and then reselect the Z and the proper year (2023MY or 2024MY).
2. Audio Amp
- This was on page 3 for me, just navigate the listed systems until you find it. Once you select it, it will contact your car. It will look like its not doing anything and sill stay at 0% for a while. Eventually it will either A. Successfully connect to the vehicles computer or B. Fail - if it fails check the bottom of this post for a fix.
3. Work Support (tab)
- In the work support tab you will find the ASC and ANC settings, you are now in the promised land, brothers. Select ANC, head into the menu, turn it off, confirm, head back. Go to ASC, rinse and repeat, leave.
4. Double Check Your Work!
At this point I left the entire Consult III software, unplugged and replugged VXDIAG device, and went BACK in and checked the settings again - they remained off, and victory was achieved.

Problems & Fixes
As I am a (lovable) dumbass and often get ahead of myself, I did run into a few problems that maybe you too have run into. I hope these fix your issues!

1. "When I am in Consult III and try to use the VI/MI scan, nothing shows up!"
-This is likely because you installed it wrong/out of order/or something just went wrong during the process and you need to try again. You will now need to uninstall everything and retry. Go into your add/remove programs in Windows and uninstall everything to do with Bosch, there will be like 3 or 4 things listed, get rid of them all. Uninstall anything about VX and VX Manager and uninstall anything to do with Contact III.
-Once you've gotten rid of that, use the windows search to go into Reg Edit to open the system's registry editor. Once you're in the Registry Editor window select Computer at the top of the navigator and then click on Edit at the top and select Find - I just typed Nissan and it showed the Consult registries. Right click and delete anything in there associated with Consult. Now start over and be meticulous about following those installation instructions VX give you! If any of this confuses you and you need references, check out the video that VX includes in the folder with all of the installation stuff and you can see what it looks like for a successful connection to be found with your VXDIAG device in Consult.

2. "I selected Audio Amp but failed to connect to the vehicle!"
- I fixed this problem by first by backing out of Consult, quitting the program. I then turned off the car and unplugged the VXDIAG device. After a few seconds I started the car back up, plugged the device back in, and re-launched Consult III. When I tried to get into the system this time, it worked perfectly. My guess is if there is a lot of sitting around the connection can time out in the background, but I'm just talking crap.

If you have any questions feel free to DM me, I'm not a professional, in fact I don't know anything about nothin', but I'll try my best to help if I can.

I know a lot of this is covered by some of the heroes in this post. The pioneers. The legends. So full credit and love goes to all involved in this thread, but especially @Kimbonits for the building blocks of my success and to @CasualSpec for the pictures that helped me navigate the dangers on this journey.

Does this really work. The fact that it comes from China would worry me.

 

[Killjoy_Z]

Does this really work. The fact that it comes from China would worry me.

Works perfectly, but I get your reservations. I was also a bit concerned. But it functions as advertised, and frankly the only company you're going to get a cracked version of the Nissan software from is going to come from China unless you find a t*rrent yourself.

 

[bpeckham]

Run it in VirtualBox VM.

 

[alienpoker]

Run it in VirtualBox VM.

Unless you have specific info on VXDiag, this isn’t always the case. The VM may not allow a program to talk directly to the hardware. The VXDIAG drivers (may) expect direct hw access, which the VM ‘sandbox’ will deny.

So you go through all the sw setup and find out the hard way it doesn’t connect to the ODBC port. Been there with Chinese BMW diag software trying to modify defaults. You may be better off running it on an old laptop you can reformat or don’t really care about anymore.

 

[HWill]

What else can you do when you get everything needed to turn off the ASC and ANC yourself?
I'm trying to see if it is even worth it in cost or should I just make some calls/trips to the dealerships.

Will be worth it if I can't find a dealership to do it but I think that might not be too hard to do.

Thanks

 

[FlagonFly]

I FINALLY took care of the these settings this morning. The difference was immidiately obvious even just sitting in the garage. I can now hear the real exhaust minus the ASE and it sounds like a sports car should. The ANC being off, GREATLY improved the BOSE sound system.
I procrastinated way, way too long on turning these off.

Hey on the ANC part specifically: Do you think disabling ANC alone is what improved the Bose system so greatly? I've never actually heard the ASE since I had the dealership disable it before I got the car, but I had them leave the ANC on and I've been wondering how much it might be "clipping" the Bose system. It sounds weak and unbalanced to me and if ANC off helps a lot I'd tolerate more general other noises along with better music.

 

[Ikazuchi6]

Hey on the ANC part specifically: Do you think disabling ANC alone is what improved the Bose system so greatly? I've never actually heard the ASE since I had the dealership disable it before I got the car, but I had them leave the ANC on and I've been wondering how much it might be "clipping" the Bose system. It sounds weak and unbalanced to me and if ANC off helps a lot I'd tolerate more general other noises along with better music.

I unplugged that speaker by the steering column and the stereo sounds much better. Big difference to my ears. ANC still plays through the sub, but honestly I can't tell.

 

[RadzShadow]

Hey on the ANC part specifically: Do you think disabling ANC alone is what improved the Bose system so greatly? I've never actually heard the ASE since I had the dealership disable it before I got the car, but I had them leave the ANC on and I've been wondering how much it might be "clipping" the Bose system. It sounds weak and unbalanced to me and if ANC off helps a lot I'd tolerate more general other noises along with better music.

Exactly, clipping is how I'd describe it before turning it off.