Pop-up hood (popper delete kit) installed with pics

[FlagonFly]

Apologize haven't read all the pages here, but let's say the poppers deploy and no other major damage occurred, e.g. hitting a curb?? What would cause $6K in 'damages', the popper replacements and what else?? Thanks still contemplating this but also leery about any future warranty and/or insurance claims if poppers removed or bypassed, God forbid.

I tried unbolting the poppers but that passenger lower bolt is almost impossible to loosen, gave up for now.

guy on yt just posted today on this kit, he moved a lot of stuff out of the way to reach the bolts! A long skinny rachet extension with universal not get to it?

 

[FSUZ33]

if it is $6k, half of that would be the poppers themselves as they’re ~$1,450 ea.
Speculation, but the rest could be control module replacement (SRS?) And possibly the hood hinges themselves, as I’m not sure if they’re reusable.
Although there are companies that rebuild poppers and reset modules for a fraction of the replacement price.

 

[FSUZ33]

guy on yt just posted today on this kit, he moved a lot of stuff out of the way to reach the bolts! A long skinny rachet extension with universal not get to it?

@Schantin

 

[5thZ]

Apologize haven't read all the pages here, but let's say the poppers deploy and no other major damage occurred, e.g. hitting a curb?? What would cause $6K in 'damages', the popper replacements and what else?? Thanks still contemplating this but also leery about any future warranty and/or insurance claims if poppers removed or bypassed, God forbid.

I tried unbolting the poppers but that passenger lower bolt is almost impossible to loosen, gave up for now.

Heard loud and clear on that PITA bolt. Ended up using pliers to get it initially loose, then the rubber portion of a plier handle to grip and rotate without fear of rounding off the edges of the nut.

It is a nut so make sure you have a magnetic grabber ready.

Other people are saying that the $6k+ in damages is from the popper causing the air bag system to deploy as well.

 

[trackratZ]

Heard loud and clear on that PITA bolt. Ended up using pliers to get it initially loose, then the rubber portion of a plier handle to grip and rotate without fear of rounding off the edges of the nut.

It is a nut so make sure you have a magnetic grabber ready.

Other people are saying that the $6k+ in damages is from the popper causing the air bag system to deploy as well.

So, you're using the resistors that @FSUZ33 made and so far good that NO codes are thrown. Let's say sensors get triggered by hitting something, what happens now, airbag (popper) light will still come on and resistors need replacing? Sorry for my electrical newbie-ness.

 

[5thZ]

So, you're using the resistors that @FSUZ33 made and so far good that NO codes are thrown. Let's say sensors get triggered by hitting something, what happens now, airbag (popper) light will still come on and resistors need replacing? Sorry for my electrical newbie-ness.

I am using the resistors FSUZ33 built, so far no issues. I ended up buying extra because I'm not sure how the new Z will do on the track and if it will throw a "popper code" or whatever to initiate the hood poppers on hard braking or potential, knock on wood, off track events.

If that's the case from my limited electrical knowledge they would be toast possibly but they're so cheap I would feel safer just replacing them anyways.

My understanding of the new safety platform is the poppers might deploy but maybe not air bags, but sometimes air bags. But perhaps I'm wrong, though. I personally just didn't like the idea of getting a wheel or two off track and hood poppers deploying even if air bags don't - that's a huge PITA and track weekend ruined, plus whatever else would need to be replaced in the immediate vicinity

 

[trackratZ]

I am using the resistors FSUZ33 built, so far no issues. I ended up buying extra because I'm not sure how the new Z will do on the track and if it will throw a "popper code" or whatever to initiate the hood poppers on hard braking or potential, knock on wood, off track events.

If that's the case from my limited electrical knowledge they would be toast possibly but they're so cheap I would feel safer just replacing them anyways.

My understanding of the new safety platform is the poppers might deploy but maybe not air bags, but sometimes air bags. But perhaps I'm wrong, though. I personally just didn't like the idea of getting a wheel or two off track and hood poppers deploying even if air bags don't - that's a huge PITA and track weekend ruined, plus whatever else would need to be replaced in the immediate vicinity

That scenario is my main concern, setting the Z for track later this year, we have curbing that I ride over for better times, here at Buttonwillow and Chuckwalla, don't want to chance blowing the poppers!! I may even enter a local autox to feel the setup, not thrilled about hitting a cone and doing similar damage, ugh!

 

[FSUZ33]

whether it’s the Top Secret ones from Nengun or the ones I made, they’re one time use (or one time pop). A car can send from 1 to 3 amps to actuate them. At 12VDC that’s 12 to 36 watts. Mine are (were, I’m out) 1 watt. And by the looks of the Nengun ones they’re 2 watt max. Preferably to have one that will pop quickly or one that’s built to handle the wattage, which would be expensive and need a heatsink or be attached to something metal to dissipate heat. im Sure there’s someone here who knows more about this than me though.

 

[Schantin]

I am using the resistors FSUZ33 built, so far no issues. I ended up buying extra because I'm not sure how the new Z will do on the track and if it will throw a "popper code" or whatever to initiate the hood poppers on hard braking or potential, knock on wood, off track events.

If that's the case from my limited electrical knowledge they would be toast possibly but they're so cheap I would feel safer just replacing them anyways.

My understanding of the new safety platform is the poppers might deploy but maybe not air bags, but sometimes air bags. But perhaps I'm wrong, though. I personally just didn't like the idea of getting a wheel or two off track and hood poppers deploying even if air bags don't - that's a huge PITA and track weekend ruined, plus whatever else would need to be replaced in the immediate vicinity

I'm 100% with your logic. I finally got my Nengum sourced poppers, but will not be discarding the ones from FSUZ33. If I mow over a rabbit enroute to work and have doubts, hopefully I can just switch to the new poppers and keep on driving.

 

[jliuod]

I just ordered some 2.2ohm , 1/2 watt resistors. I will be using them to the stock harnesses. I think the price tag on the commercially available product is a bit steep for what it is. My understanding is simply connecting the two ends of the resistor to the stock plug. Will report back once it is done.

 

[2Cool]

After a couple weeks I can confirm that these resistors work, and do not set any codes per my new Autel reader.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BYTQ3L6W?

 

[FSUZ33]

I just ordered some 2.2ohm , 1/2 watt resistors. I will be using them to the stock harnesses. I think the price tag on the commercially available product is a bit steep for what it is. My understanding is simply connecting the two ends of the resistor to the stock plug. Will report back once it is done.

Correct. What you get from a setup at least with the mating connector is the reliable connection. It can be accomplished with resistors and electrical tape, but you have to consider all of it getting hot and vibrating around. If you go the “shove it between the contacts and tape” method, it may help to fold the leads of the resistor on themselves before inserting to wedge in a little tighter fit. Especially if they’re really thin. A higher wattage can get you thinker leads I believe.

 

[hohenheim]

Correct. What you get from a setup at least with the mating connector is the reliable connection. It can be accomplished with resistors and electrical tape, but you have to consider all of it getting hot and vibrating around. If you go the “shove it between the contacts and tape” method, it may help to fold the leads of the resistor on themselves before inserting to wedge in a little tighter fit. Especially if they’re really thin. A higher wattage can get you thinker leads I believe.

There shouldn't be any issues with the way you built your resistive load. If you really want a beefy setup try the one below with leads into the plug you guys found. Only thing that will happen if the hood poppers are supposed to blow is that the resistor burns up and sometimes you will find that the resistor still reads fine but under load it will read incorrectly. I would just use the 1W resistor you guys are using and not worry about it. Great suggestion to pot the resistor although I just plan on 3d printing a removable cover in case it does blow and I can replace at a later time. Again, you guys should be fine with the resistor setup you suggested that kits a bit.....overpriced

If you're just gonna shove a resistor into the connector put shrink tubing over it and heat up the open side and clamp it shut so it seals the end to make it waterproof