Oil Pressure at idle?

RobotAZ

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Not my dealer. I got my oil changed a month ago at Tacoma Nissan and when I asked about putting a heavier oil in for summer driving, he informed me that not following the recommendations in the owner's manual could void the warranty.

Sucks how much mixed messaging is out there, I don't care about MPGs and prefer the oil that protects the engine's long-term health, but I also don't want to void my warranty.
You would just need a reputable source that shows correct operating ranges of oil weights. Then you’d need oil change history showing the correct weight for time of year where you live. If temps didn’t get below or above the operating ranges of the oil, then according to Nissan’s documentation, you are free to make that choice.

From the manual:

IMG_2129.jpeg


IMG_2130.jpeg


If you look at this generic chart showing ambient temp range and oil viscosities, it is pretty clear that 0W-20 is a dumb choice for summer pretty much anywhere other than the arctic. Get this from a reputable place like API, Nissan, etc. Don’t use a photo off the internet.

FYI 20C is only 68F. That’s what 0W-20 shows below. Clearly dumb. 30C is still only 86F, which is what 5W-30 is good to. None of these will blow your engine up when the oil is operating temp, but I would think people in Phoenix or similar run 10W-40, or should anyway. You could even run 50 weight

IMG_2131.jpeg


I’m no oil pressure guru, but I’d think there are diminishing returns above 10W-40 on this engine with it having turbos and being smaller displacement. But a way bigger concern is the stupid oil bypass solenoid stuck open and blowing the engine.
 
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Bumflik

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That oil bypass solenoid is the problem. Gonna have it unplugged
 

Koryak

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Sucks how much mixed messaging is out there, I don't care about MPGs and prefer the oil that protects the engine's long-term health, but I also don't want to void my warranty.
Keep in mind that viscosity is only part of how well oil protects. I've seen tests done in Germany where a high quality 0W-16 gave less wear than a generic 5W-30 under identical autobahn & short trip driving. Because of direct fuel injection, our Zs get some fuel dilution and soot contamination in the oil. Changing oil more often than the warranty requires will also reduce engine wear and hedge against low speed pre-ignition (LSPI) in addition to using the specified API SN+ or SP oil.
 

Bumflik

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Keep in mind that viscosity is only part of how well oil protects. I've seen tests done in Germany where a high quality 0W-16 gave less wear than a generic 5W-30 under identical autobahn & short trip driving. Because of direct fuel injection, our Zs get some fuel dilution and soot contamination in the oil. Changing oil more often than the warranty requires will also reduce engine wear and hedge against low speed pre-ignition (LSPI) in addition to using the specified API SN+ or SP oil.
Agreed. Why I do mine every 3000 miles. And do Motul Full synthetic.
 

FSUZ33

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Haven’t decided yet how Involved I’ll be with oil changes vs my go-to shop. Going to take it to the dealership for my first oil change in the next month or so. I’m in FL, and it’s already hot as balls midday. 95 degrees (35C) is normal down here, or will be a month from now.
0/20?
5/20?
5/30?
I’m getting the feeling 0/20 is a poor choice especially during a Florida summer. Not sure what they’ll recommend and how much they’ll be willing to shift.
Appreciate your info/opinions.
 
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The key takeaway here is "Damage caused by use of motor oil other than as recommended is not covered under NISSAN's New Vehicle Limited Warranty.".

That language seems to specify that they are free to deny warranty claims if you don't use their recommended oil, which is exactly what the nissan tech told me at my last oil change.
 

RobotAZ

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The key takeaway here is "Damage caused by use of motor oil other than as recommended is not covered under NISSAN's New Vehicle Limited Warranty.".

That language seems to specify that they are free to deny warranty claims if you don't use their recommended oil, which is exactly what the nissan tech told me at my last oil change.
However, under the section for Oil Recommendations, it says this:

IMG_2139.jpeg

Nissan recommends: 0W-20, API and ILSAC, and using the correct viscosity due to ambient temperature range ā€œbefore the next oil changeā€ if 0W-20 isn’t it.

The part in quotations is apparently not worded well and means ā€œbefore going to the dealership and having your oil changed [determine the correct ambient temperature and corresponding oil viscosity for the next period during which the changed oil will operate]ā€.

Note: ambiguity is still there, but in this case I move away from worrying about someone else’s terms and conditions and focus on ensuring my own. I can do that with what they said in the manual and fight it easily if my oil is in the correct temp range its entire operating life.
 
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Bumflik

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0w and DI motors were pushed for EPA govt. efficency/ fuel economy not for protection and durability. I appreciate you for the video you shared. Scientific analysis of the oil should be done to find out what oil viscosity is best for reducing metal shavings (wear) in the oil.
 
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kevinbonds

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Haven’t decided yet how Involved I’ll be with oil changes vs my go-to shop. Going to take it to the dealership for my first oil change in the next month or so. I’m in FL, and it’s already hot as balls midday. 95 degrees (35C) is normal down here, or will be a month from now.
0/20?
5/20?
5/30?
I’m getting the feeling 0/20 is a poor choice especially during a Florida summer. Not sure what they’ll recommend and how much they’ll be willing to shift.
Appreciate your info/opinions.
I live in southern Florida and just had my break in oil change done at 600 Miles. Car is a year old, so it was time to have the first oil change. I have a great Nissan dealer near my house, it's a small privately owned dealer and the service department is pretty good. I took my car in, and service writer asked if I wanted 0w-20, or 5w30. Exxon makes the factory oil, so Nissan dealers stock the full synthetic Mobil 1 in 5w30, and I was told they have to use that because it's API SP certified and meets Nissan's standard. I used a coupon and was in an out with the larger GTR filter (they stock ay most dealers), for a total of $99. I will only use 5w30 and would not go with a 40 weight unless I was tracking the car and had a tune. I only put a couple thousand miles per year, since this is just a weekend fun car, so I don't see any need to go thicker than 5w30. I ran 5w30 in my 1995 300zx TT, and ran the car to 120K miles, the turbos were still working perfectly and stuck with Mobil 1 5w30.
 

Koryak

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I enjoyed the above video by Lake Speed Jr. He tells it like it is & is extremely qualified. He helped Joe Gibbs win NASCAR championships using a special synthetic oil that didn't overheat while drafting. The competition overheated and had less horsepower to pass while the drivers for Gibbs Racing didn't, LOL!
 
 






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