Oil Filter compilation

[KrackaC8]

Yeah I wasn't happy to see the Pennzoil changes.

It is funny to see Nissan is going with 5w30 now that 0w20 synthetic base fluid is becoming scarce, it will likely be a short-term change just based on supply dynamics from the Middle East. One reason I may eventually stick with Amsoil, these big oil companies always mess around with their formulas and good formulas get watered down over time, Amsoil only seems to get better.

Redline too! Even with the ownership change I'm glad to see Redline hasn't degraded their product.

 

[KyleWI]

Ive been using Mobil1 5w30 Extended Protection since its first break in oil. And for over 30 yrs, never had issues with it. Whether I buy Amsoil, Motul, or OTC, I change my oil every 3k miles.

Next oil change, I will be switching to Mobil1 5w40 Euro.

I have also landed on M1 5W-40. I'm changing the oil more frequently than 3000 miles however due to track use.

 

[zeroptzero]

Back to oil filters, if anyone goes to the dealer and is told they use the same filter on all of their vehicles including the Z , give them shit. Dealers want to use the least amount of filters they can in their parts stock rooms. My parts guy had to bring in a box of 30 filters for the Z, no wonder they wanted to sell me the other filter with the lower by-pass setting. It was some kind of revelation to him when I told him the correct part number. Some days I really hate people.

 

[VR30Infection]

Greetings ....

Not knowing your buddy pilot's point of reference or specific type of aircraft engine, I have attached a few pics to perhaps help clear the air. First, keep in mind that aviation maintenance can not compare to that of the automobile industry. Second, in contrast to the statement that "most plane engines have no filter at all" feel free to study the attached pics and determine if your pilot friend can explain why one of the most prolific manufacturer of reciprocating combustion engines in the USA designs their engines with an oil filtration system which includes an oil filtration canister.

Again, not knowing your friend's aeronautical background/qualifications/certifications... base on the above subject statement alone, I recommend you politely refraining from actually flying with him/her at the controls!

Maintenance on aircraft engines is based on actual operational time...some components are changed/replaced regardless of condition at specific time intervals. Imagine how much operational time we accumulate when driving in areas where a 10 mile trip can take you as much as 1 hour in traffic! Along the operational life of an engine, some car engines accumulate more operational time-miles equivalency (you can develop a calculation formula that approximates your driving profile), than the actual miles recorded. As we drive and advance in accumulated odometer miles... would be prudent to check the operational clock/time recorder on the engine and determine if maintenance should be adjusted accordingly!

Planes have to be checked and certified yearly. And yes you are correct in saying that aviation and auto maintenance cannot be compared. The reason? Because if your car engine fails while you’re driving it, there is no way for it to plummet you to your death from above. Meaning that aviation maintenance is far more important than automotive maintenance which is why your car doesn’t have to have a yearly thorough inspection for you to put it on the road by law. But thanks for your concern. Lol. Also. If you look it up, some plane engines literally do not have oil filters. Just because you found that some do in fact have paper oil filters does not mean that every one of them does.
On top of all of the above, I was just pointing out a fun fact and am not here to argue aviation maintenance. If you’re still concerned, my buddy has been a pilot for years and has owned three different planes and of course gets it certified yearly. He’s flown all over the US with his wife and they are both still breathing. How he found out the info he had stated was due to the fact that his last plane did not have an oil filters. He, (at the time) thought he would prolong his engines life by adding an external oil filter kit to this particular engine. He was then told by a professional aircraft mechanic that he didn’t need to do that and that it wouldn’t make a difference. So, I will trust the word of this pilot friend of mine and the info he recieved from the aircraft mechanic over someone that did a google search.

 

[_ds_]

I just checked and Mobile-1 0w-20 is $12.99/quart and Amsoil Signature Series 0w-20 is $13.99 / quart delivered to my door. I think for less than the cost of a happy meal I will stick with the Amsoil.

 

[zeroptzero]

I just checked and Mobile-1 0w-20 is $12.99/quart and Amsoil Signature Series 0w-20 is $13.99 / quart delivered to my door. I think for less than the cost of a happy meal I will stick with the Amsoil.

Yes definitely , well worth it. Good choice

 

[zeroptzero]

I don't think I will mess with the oil control solenoid. I believe it may be a worthwhile thing to do for those inclined to mess with it. I have an 8 year bumper to bumper warranty so I will take my chances. Is there any advice on what one can do to reduce the risk of engine damage due to a bad/stuck solenoid ? I plan to use a 0w30 oil , full synthetic. My oil changes won't be longer than 3000 miles as I drive less than that in a driving season. No long drains for me and only quality oil. Standard Z oil filter from Nissan. Am I any safer running a 20 weight oil instead of 30 weight ? I will do dealer oil changes yearly to keep my warranty and I have 3 free oil changes with them.

Are there any tell tale signs of a bad solenoid ? Does oil viscosity make any difference? Thanks for any replies. I have read through some threads on this but it is a bit confusing for a newbie like me. Thanks for any replies.

 

[KyleWI]

I don't think I will mess with the oil control solenoid. I believe it may be a worthwhile thing to do for those inclined to mess with it. I have an 8 year bumper to bumper warranty so I will take my chances. Is there any advice on what one can do to reduce the risk of engine damage due to a bad/stuck solenoid ? I plan to use a 0w30 oil , full synthetic. My oil changes won't be longer than 3000 miles as I drive less than that in a driving season. No long drains for me and only quality oil. Standard Z oil filter from Nissan. Am I any safer running a 20 weight oil instead of 30 weight ? I will do dealer oil changes yearly to keep my warranty and I have 3 free oil changes with them.

Are there any tell tale signs of a bad solenoid ? Does oil viscosity make any difference? Thanks for any replies. I have read through some threads on this but it is a bit confusing for a newbie like me. Thanks for any replies.

The solenoid won't have issues with frequent oil changes. The issue is caused by extended service intervals. Deleting the solenoid is moreso just piece of mind.

Anything 0/5 - 20-40 won't affect the VR engine significantly with frequent oil changes. If running the engine oil at higher temperatures for long durations, you want to use 30 or 40, regardless of mods. It has everything to do with the oil viscosity under high heat.

By running 30 or 40 weight, you will sacrifice fuel economy to some extent.

Everything I said here is extremely simplified and there is a lot more detail, but the main point of frequent oil changes, it won't matter applies.

 

[zeroptzero]

The solenoid won't have issues with frequent oil changes. The issue is caused by extended service intervals. Deleting the solenoid is moreso just piece of mind.

Anything 0/5 - 20-40 won't affect the VR engine significantly with frequent oil changes. If running the engine oil at higher temperatures for long durations, you want to use 30 or 40, regardless of mods. It has everything to do with the oil viscosity under high heat.

By running 30 or 40 weight, you will sacrifice fuel economy to some extent.

Everything I said here is extremely simplified and there is a lot more detail, but the main point of frequent oil changes, it won't matter applies.

Thank you for that simple summary , it helps my small brain understand it better. Yes I will never have long drains, never. I will plan to use 0w30 , I could go to a 20 weight but a bit more peace of mind with a 30 weight. Fuel economy isn't a big issue , it isn't great to begin with , lol. I have 75w90 in the diff so 30 weight in the engine isn't much worse, lol.

Thank you kindly. I do have an extended warranty if things get back too

 

[VR30Infection]

Just a friendly reminder for those that don’t understand oil. The first number with the W behind it is what the oil acts like in extreme winter conditions and the second number is the actual weight of the oil under normal operating conditions. So for those of us that don’t live in freeze areas, the first number is pointless to us. If your Z is a grocery getter, then you can use 20 weight and won’t have any issues. Those who are in hot climate areas maybe 30 would be a good choice. For people that drive the car hard, track time, tuned and pushing more boost, then 40 has been suggested by multiple tuners. Nope this helps. So for clarification, if you are tuned and or doing track days etc then 5W-40 or 10W-40 will be fine as the “W” number is not going to matter