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KrackaC8

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They do... I'm sure your friend is a fine pilot, but mechanic he is not. Most professional racecar drivers couldn't tell you the difference between a wrench and a lug nut, either.
 

KrackaC8

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Drain engine.
Drain cooler.
Clean screen.
Every 50 hours!
That's basically the equivalent of 3 WEEKS worth of Houston commuting.

I'd rather just run a quality filter with a simple drain & fill procedure and worry about it a few times per YEAR instead.

Unfortunately, your pilot buddy doesn't understand how oil filter bypass valves work nor that it's unrelated to engine oil pressure and instead a pressure differential across the filtering media. Luckily for him since he doesn't replace them, they do work effectively enough to save his engines from immediate destruction once clogged.
 
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VR30Infection

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I’m pretty sure that the frequency is much greater because an engine failure could end very badly while you’re in the air. I’m also pretty confident that even when an airplane does have a filter, the oil and filter changes are still quite frequent compared to an automobile.

Secondly, he does understand the pressure differential. I was just trying to throw some interesting info about airplane engines and wasn’t fully articulating all details because I wasn’t expecting someone to throw so much shade on a Z forum.

And finally, why all the shade? Who pissed on your Cheerios?
 
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trackratZ

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Back on topic, if frequency of oil changes on our RZ34s is kept at 3-4k miles, I’d say filters should NOT be clogged enough to reach over a threshold kPa of any of the OEM listed filters.

If driven hard, I.e. lots more heat generated than normal, I’d be safe to use the GTR filter, more filter elements seem like better insurance especially for our turbo engines.
 
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Screenshot 2026-03-20 073703.webp


Yeah, back to our regularly-scheduled thread. The question also becomes, how much restriction occurs through the filter elements based off of viscosity? An oil with a higher viscosity would (in theory) be more restricted through the elements of the filter.

Problem is, I don't know if going to 5w20 creates 2 PSID, or 20 PSID.

The big concern in my mind is, at what point do the filter elements blow out from too much pressure across them?

Can just thicker oil, pared with a quick rev that bumps up oil pressure, cause the bypass to open?

Does a longer filter (GT-R filter) have more filter element surface area that would decrease the PSID? Think of it as the difference of 30 lbs of weight pushing down on you as a nail, or 30 lbs pushing down as a 1' x 1' plate.

In my free time, I'll message a few youtubers and see if there is some way to video flow vs surface area of the element taking in to account viscosity.

Sorry I don't have any answers, guys. Just made this topic to combine things.
 

trackratZ

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Not scientific by any means, but if the OEM GT-R filter is able to take on 0w40 as spec'ed with no issues, I'm confident it will be more than enough to handle our RZ34 with OEM 0w20 or even 0-5w30. Maybe the VR30 and VR35 tolerances are different??
 

Gudzy

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Where did you get the info on the relief bypass spec for each oil filter? I've been sent an oil filter with part number 15208-9F60A but want to see if it's at least the same spec as the 15208-65F1E I ordered
 
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Where did you get the info on the relief bypass spec for each oil filter? I've been sent an oil filter with part number 15208-9F60A but want to see if it's at least the same spec as the 15208-65F1E I ordered
Googled the part #. Added "specifications", or "bypass PSI" after the part #
 
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Just had a thought:

What if Nissan is recommending the F1B, F1E filters with the high bypass pressure so that there is less garf and crap to clog the oil solenoid?

A bit of bypass isn't bad. Eventually, all oil will pass through the elements. Under normal conditions, we aren't adding particulate, shrapnel, etc to our oil.
 

KrackaC8

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Just had a thought:

What if Nissan is recommending the F1B, F1E filters with the high bypass pressure so that there is less garf and crap to clog the oil solenoid?

A bit of bypass isn't bad. Eventually, all oil will pass through the elements. Under normal conditions, we aren't adding particulate, shrapnel, etc to our oil.
They claim it's for the turbos, but you absolutely could be on to something! Easier to explain away turbos than a suspect or flawed solenoid...
 

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Ok, thanks. I'd tried that but didn't find anything for that one unfortunately, I was hoping you had some insider knowledge!
 

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Based on my experience, airplane mechanics (even those with Inspection Authorization) aren't much better than auto mechanics - they just charge more.

Fun Fact: The Lycoming engine in my airplane never had an oil filter. The recommended overhaul time was 2000 hours - usually based on cylinder compression testing and/or oil consumption. That's roughly 200,000 miles.

Fun Fact #2: The '55 Chevy that I acquired in 1964 had a 265 V8 that had no oil filter (they were an option in those days). I got 100,000 miles out of that engine before I had it overhauled and bored out to a 283 - still ran it without a filter. Ah, the good old days. Right?

Now, what oil was it that is best for our turbo chargers?
 
 






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