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Mugzilla

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Lots of purse-swinging on this topic. But also, there is a LOT of contradictory info from industry folks with a LOT of experience with this engine. There are no good aftermarket oil filters with the Nissan “recommended” bypass pressure value.

Please post in here with any updated info that can be helpful. If I made an error, let me know so I can correct it.

ALSO, I am NOT criticizing Racebox, Z1, etc. I'm just presenting their info/articles/etc.

The “Too long, didn’t read” (TL;DR): Use the 65F1B.


Here is what I found:


FIRST, the STOCK Nissan-recommended filter for our Z has a bypass relief valve pressure setting of 36 PSI. Here are a bunch of oil filters that WILL thread onto the side of our VR-30 and their relief bypass spec:

15208-65F1B (made in Japan by Mahle) : 250 kpa / 36 PSI
15208-65F1E (made in Mexico) : 250 kpa / 36 PSI
15208-65FOE: 98 kpa / 14.2 PSI
15208-9E01A (The GT-R filter) : 15 PSI
Mobil 1 M1-108A: 103 kpa / 15 PSI
Mobil 1 M1-110: 103 kpa / 15 PSI
WIX 57356xp: 8-11 PSI
Nismo 15208-RN011: 23 PSI
Bosch 3323: 14-18 PSI



NOW, What does this relief valve pressure mean? IF the difference in pressure across the filter elements is greater than its setting, the bypass opens, and becomes the path of least resistance, and that bypassed oil is pushed through all the bearing journals. It just isn’t “filtered” oil.

Things get murky when you listen to the experts: Racebox recommends different oils based off of pressure read at idle, and what your car’s mileage is. They THEN go onto recommend the GT-R filter. https://goracebox.com/blogs/guides/infiniti-q50-q60-and-nissan-z-vr30-maintenance-guide

Z1 sells the Nismo 15208-RN011. Their oil change kits are 0w20 and the 65F1B filter. https://www.z1motorsports.com/lubricating-system/nismo/nismo-performance-oil-filter-p-4275.html

Z1 ALSO says:

*ATTENTION*
If you are using a heavier oil weight than recommended in your FSM, we recommend using the 65F0E filter to allow the heavier oil to flow properly.

If they are picking the 65F0E over the 65F1B SOLELY because of the relief, I'll be disappointed. It is foggy if one filter would allow thicker oil to flow through it better or not.

z1 oil chart.webp




Let me expound a bit on filtration, and differential pressures.

If you had a filter WITHOUT the bypass relief, what could happen? First, if the filter got clogged, pressure would increase on the inlet side, and be LOWER on the outlet side of the filter. The filter element would eventually blow out. A teeny tiny bit of oil would flow through the filtration element, and the rest would flow through the blow out, and lubing your bearings.

Wait a minute! Sometimes my gauge says 20 PSI. If my filter is clogged, and my relief setting is 36 PSI, isn’t all oil flow to my bearings going to stop? Nope. The oil pump is a positive displacement pump. You cannot run a positive displacement pump at a deadhead. That oil is going out the discharge of the oil pump.

Why would someone recommend the “Longer GT-R filter?” Because Longer filter = more filter surface area = Oil flows slower through the filtration elements = lower differential pressure across the filter.


@KrackaC8 : If you could paste in your 65F1B vs 65F1E stuff from the WDYDTYZT? Thread on pg 136, it would be cool. (I could paste it in to my post, but you did the work and research…)
 
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KrackaC8

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Japan vs. Mexico:
1000005136.webp


Japan vs. Mexico:
1000005137.webp


Japanese F1B:
1000005138.webp


Mexican F1E:
1000005139.webp


1000005141.webp


1000005142.webp
 

5amp5on

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Mug thank you for the information compilation.
 

KrackaC8

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Z1 recommending a lower bypass pressure when running a thicker oil is backwards logic, and just forces even more unfiltered oil to flow more frequently.
 

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Good thread. I started one of the many threads a while ago when Z1 sent me a filter that was not correct. They did replace it when I emailed them about it so that was good.

I got the WIX one for my next oil change.
 
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Mugzilla

Mugzilla

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Z1 recommending a lower bypass pressure when running a thicker oil is backwards logic, and just forces even more unfiltered oil to flow more frequently.

thank-you-substitute-teacher.gif



I really wanted to post what you say above.

Let's say you get "high" diff pressure (DP) across your oil filter element. As long as the filter element is STRONG enough not to blow out, and make a hole for oil to flow unfiltered through to all your critical components, you are good to go.

If the F1E is strong enough not to blow out, awesome.

Perhaps all these oil filters that have lower relief settings couldn't handle a DP of 30+ PSI. (Because the filter element is made weaker, because the manufacturer knows the relief will lift to prevent the blowout....)

Of course, we all need to make sure we are doing regular oil changes, so all those 20-40 micron bits don't clog the filter.

Think I'll send some comments to those YTers that test these sort of things. I'd like to see what happens to a 15 PSI filter if it feels high inlet pressure. That high inlet pressure COULD be caused by higher viscosity oil not flowing freely through the elements. Would be cool to see some cut open filters to see if they DO blow out.
 

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Excellent findings, and overview of the whole issue.

(I think) bearings will prove to be the weak point long term for the VR30ddtt.
Then the Hi/Lo oil pressure solenoid which doesn’t ‘fail safe’.
Then prob the high pressure fuel rail, which should be a recall. Seems all pressure / fluid dynamics related problems?

I was able to buy only 3 of the 65F1B Genuine Nissan Mahle filters. But they came from the other side of the USA. They’re in FL I live in CA…and from a dealership that only service Zs/GTRs but don’t even sell new Nissans.

Most companies (if you are able to contact their customer service) will just cross-ref and send you out the 65F1A or 61F0E (most likely the 0E) when you order the 65F1B.
 

alienpoker

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Will someone much more knowledgeable than me create a table? I know there’s a lot of good info available … but a single summary would be good. Say showing us different oil viscosities and indicators:
Better where it gets very hot/cold, better for track use, better if using W30-xx or W20-xx.
Probably the 65F1B all around, but maybe not?

Edit: sorry I meant 0w-20, 5w-20 5w-30.
I go back to the days where it really would be sae 30. Good old 30w in a Z, not a multigrade.
 
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VR30Infection

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Want to know something that will blow your mind?

I have a buddy that is a pilot and owns his own plane. One day we’re talking about oil changes on our mini bikes and he says he never changes his filter because it’s pointless. I went 🤨…. Then he goes on to explain how much more important reliability is on a plane engine than a car or motorcycle. Which I agree with, and then he tells me that most plane engines have no oil filter at all. It’s not needed. 😳. Then he tells me how most oil filter bypass is lower than the oil pressure anyway so there is always oil bypassing the filter.

Just food for thought.

My thoughts. The filter doesn’t really matter that much. Just change your oil *AND FILTER often and use good oil *AND A QUALITY FILTER

(This edit is just to clarify my opinion. After reviewing this post, I realized that it makes it sound like I’m saying to not change your oil filter. This is not the case in my opinion. I always change my oil filters every time I do an oil change. I argue with my friend about this all the time to the point that he gets frustrated 🤣)
 
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Mugzilla

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Snip

Then he tells me how most oil filter bypass is lower than the oil pressure anyway so there is always oil bypassing the filter.
EDITING THIS TO ONLY LEAVE THE PERTINENT THINGS, and not my commentary. Using the strikeout feature so it doesn't look like I'm hiding something.


Not sure if you are agreeing with your plane buddy or not, or his logic.

Oil filters do not have a pressure "sensor". They can only sense the pressure differential (PSID) across the filter elements.

Lets say you use a Mobil One 108A filter (15 PSI bypass), fill with oil, and start a generic engine. If oil pressure on one side of the filter element is 90 PSI, and on the other side of the filter element the pressure is 80 PSI, the bypass won't open. Pressure is only 10 PSID across the filter elements. You increase RPMs. Oil on one side of the element goes to 100 PSI. On the filtered side of the filter, pressure is 80. 20 PSID = BYPASS OPENS, since it is set at 15 PSI.

What drops pressure ACROSS the filter? Filter being clogged, higher viscosity oil (Going from 0w20 to 5w30). That positive displacement oil pump will force tht oil somewhere. I'd prefer oil going through the filter elements.

I'm not flying with your buddy. Maybe he has oil flowing. But it shows a fundamental misunderstanding or respect for engineering.
 
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VR30Infection

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I don’t think you’re taking everything I said in. He’s not saying he doesn’t change his airplane filter. It’s that they literally don’t have a filter. He said at first this bothered him so he added an external filter however he was told by a pro plane mechanic that it’s pointless. He then payed attention to the oil during changes and noted no difference. So on the plane he has now (which didn’t come with an oil filter from the factory) he left it alone.
 
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Mugzilla

Mugzilla

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I don’t think you’re taking everything I said in. He’s not saying he doesn’t change his airplane filter. It’s that they literally don’t have a filter. He said at first this bothered him so he added an external filter however he was told by a pro plane mechanic that it’s pointless. He then payed attention to the oil during changes and noted no difference. So on the plane he has now (which didn’t come with an oil filter from the factory) he left it alone.
Fixed my post. Used strikeout on the parts where I missed the point. Made some grammar and technical clarification / corrections.
 

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Great info, a few notes:

- With the larger GTR filter you will have less differential pressure across the filter when new due to more filter media - I think this is what Z1 is talking about.

- Any filter should only really bypass once filled with enough contaminates. If you change your filter often enough the 15 vs 26 psi bypass shouldn't matter because you will never load the filter enough to bypass.

-Now Z1 may have evidence that the smaller filters don't have enough media area to prevent a 15psi bypass with thicker oils (though I kind of doubt this).


my personal opinion of what is safe:

High Bypass pressure small filters.
GTR filter.
 

KrackaC8

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Want to know something that will blow your mind?

I have a buddy that is a pilot and owns his own plane. One day we’re talking about oil changes on our mini bikes and he says he never changes his filter because it’s pointless. I went 🤨…. Then he goes on to explain how much more important reliability is on a plane engine than a car or motorcycle. Which I agree with, and then he tells me that most plane engines have no oil filter at all. It’s not needed. 😳. Then he tells me how most oil filter bypass is lower than the oil pressure anyway so there is always oil bypassing the filter.

Just food for thought.

My thoughts. The filter doesn’t really matter that much. Just change your oil often and use good oil.
This is exactly why pilots pay actual certified mechanics to perform and document maintenance logs.
 
 






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