Help Me Figure Out Wheel Specs - VOLK CE28N

[Mrdeep]

Hey all,

hoping to have someone validate or invalidate the wheel size upgrade for my proto. continuing to work on my OEM+ (spent way too much money to look like I spent none) build.

I have my 23 proto spec, and want to get wider tires to handle the power. I've narrowed in on the Volk CE28N-plus, and want to make sure I don't buy the wrong set up to be flush against the car.

A couple of points

1. I have the Nismo Fender flares, so that's an additional like 15MM.
2. I want to keep the stock bronze look, but want it to be the satin sheen since I have a stealth PPF
3. I also have the Greddy lip kit on the way, but I don't think that is super relevant (unless someone tells me it is).

Looking at the CE28n-Plus

• Rear:
  • 19x11 114.3 +15 Face4
• Front:
  • 19X10 114.3 +18 Face 4

LINK TO THE WHEELS
https://www.t1motorsports.com/produ..._gr0YK9pydP4-ngFVD8eEMG7wcE82BpEaAvhFEALw_wcB

 

[OptionZero]

Those sizes are fine

The issue is the Nismo flares DO NOT INCREASE WHEEL CLEARANCE. Look at how they clip in, they extend inward a bit and may rub. They actually reduce clearance (slightly).
It is not accurate to call them flares because they don't actually flare. They're "trim"

That said, for these wheels (or any more aggressive than stock sizing) to fit properly, you always need:

Lower height
Camber
Appropriate tire size

That means

Coilovers
adjustable arms, since there is no front alignment adjustment and minimal rear

Tires are only .5 inch wider than stock so you can still use a 245/40 front and 285/35 rear. You can go way higher to 265/35 and 305/30 but that may require more camber, depending on height

example
this is a Z34 on TE37, 19x9.5 +22 front, 19x10.5 rear. 275/35 and 305/30 on eibach springs

The specs you posted a a bit more aggressive and that is why adjustment should be needed



TLDR
Good sizes
Needs more stuff to look good and fit properly

 

[Mrdeep]

Those sizes are fine

The issue is the Nismo flares DO NOT INCREASE WHEEL CLEARANCE. Look at how they clip in, they extend inward a bit and may rub. They actually reduce clearance (slightly).
It is not accurate to call them flares because they don't actually flare. They're "trim"

That said, for these wheels (or any more aggressive than stock sizing) to fit properly, you always need:

Lower height
Camber
Appropriate tire size

That means

Coilovers
adjustable arms, since there is no front alignment adjustment and minimal rear

Tires are only .5 inch wider than stock so you can still use a 245/40 front and 285/35 rear. You can go way higher to 265/35 and 305/30 but that may require more camber, depending on height

example
this is a Z34 on TE37, 19x9.5 +22 front, 19x10.5 rear. 275/35 and 305/30 on eibach springs

The specs you posted a a bit more aggressive and that is why adjustment should be needed



TLDR
Good sizes
Needs more stuff to look good and fit properly

This is the feedback I'm looking to build off of so Thank you!

So more context: I have done almost the entire suite of suspension upgrades: coils, tie rod, control arms, etc.

For tires, I have 285s on the stock wheels, and they are only 10" (I don't have the Nismo).

I knew the Nismo flares actually do the opposite of clearance, and I was curious to see if anyone has had issues with significant rubbing with the wider wheels.

This pic is from before the trim pieces (not flares to your point).

 

[OptionZero]

Not sure about the RZ34 but I dumped my flares early on and found that the Z34 front fenders were already a bit rolled from the factory on my Nismo. I don't think you need to touch your fenders to clear those wheels, but if you do its not that hard to find a competent tech these days.

On an 11 inch rear wheel, you should safely be able to run a 305/30 which is plenty. At that point your compound choice is more important than any more width.

In 99% of cases the rear will never be the problem on the Z. The fender wells are massive and can fit anything

The fronts are always the issue thanks to lack of camber adjustment. If you have the arms to adjust camber, you should also have a ton of space. Our fenders are massive, it just takes an alignment to unlock it.

For reference, I am running or have run in front:
275/40/18 on 18x10.5 +16 for my track wheels (Nexen SUR4G)
245/40/19 on 20x10, -1 on current street wheels, Works GT5-3P
275/30/20 on 20x11, +15 on TE37 Ultra, (street only)
255/35/20 on 20x10, +3 on SSR Professor SP4 (street only)

My front fenders are pulled a bit and i'm fairly low, but your sizes are well within the range for untouched fenders.

You should be fine

 

[FSUZ33]

@OptionZero ... What was your camber setting with 20x10/-1 on the front? I assume that was dead-nuts or really close to the clearance limit for a non-molested front fender.

 

[VR30Infection]

You should be able to go 10.5 +22 up front. Others have. You can fit 285/35. Hopefully others that have will chime in.

 

[trackratZ]

Well, I tried fit 285/35 on 10.5 +23 up front on stock arms, will rub for sure but just barely. With camber arms like SPL and added neg camber of course no problem fitting. Note that 285s have slight differences in width across makes, I'm on 200TW RE71-RS.

 

[VR30Infection]

Yeah. You would have to be lowered and run a little extra negative camber for sure. But if the goal is to get as much grip as possible then that is part of the recipe anyways. If you’re going for a look then that’s another story. It’s always confused me why so many go to 9.5” up front with an aggressive offset. Leaving so much on the table inboard. The other option would be to run the +32 rims and then add a small spacer to perfect fitment. +32 with a 5mm hubcentric spacer would give you the same outboard fitment as a stock performance rim with 25mm spacer. (Which I have and Z1 suggests for good fitment on a lowered Z) and it would be the same inboard clearance as the stock rims without a spacer.

 

[OptionZero]

@OptionZero ... What was your camber setting with 20x10/-1 on the front? I assume that was dead-nuts or really close to the clearance limit for a non-molested front fender.

Actually, fits pretty comfortably with my pulled fender and -3.5 camber, 245/40 tire (Falken FK510)
Please excuse the dirty car, this was on pickup from the shop
No rub lock to lock, no on any form of freeway or street driving
I have air cups so speed bumps and curbs are not an issue even with the lip
HIGHLY recommend air cups in front, solves all the problems people complain about here with scraping

I also found an old pic that shows the clearance on 20x11, +15. 275/30/20 Toyo T1R
-3 camber, +6 caster. This was before air cups and also before a lip.

20x10, -3 is 5mm further out than 20x11, +15

I forgot the other spot that rubs - the front bumper tab. I believe the RZ34 has the same mounting point. You may need to trim a little off, OR drill a new hole and relocate it inwards.

This is for a more extreme case of front fitment like mine.

EDIT

That fitment might look scary to some but i assure you it is perfectly functional
this is 18x11, +16 with 275/40 at -3 camber being used on all 4 corners going over all sorts of bumps. turns and elevation changes

 

[OptionZero]

Yeah. You would have to be lowered and run a little extra negative camber for sure. But if the goal is to get as much grip as possible then that is part of the recipe anyways. If you’re going for a look then that’s another story. It’s always confused me why so many go to 9.5” up front with an aggressive offset. Leaving so much on the table inboard. The other option would be to run the +32 rims and then add a small spacer to perfect fitment. +32 with a 5mm hubcentric spacer would give you the same outboard fitment as a stock performance rim with 25mm spacer. (Which I have and Z1 suggests for good fitment on a lowered Z) and it would be the same inboard clearance as the stock rims without a spacer.

9.5 up front is likely down to most retailers recommending a stagger by default and to be conservative with most customers being ignorant about wheel fitment

also unless the shop is familiar either with aggressive fitment generally or Z fitment specifically they won't know for sure how to adjust the front spec

I also have found a general lack of selection for low offset 9.5 inch wheels that also clear brakes and also have concave or lip

9.5 +22 has been a "standard" recommendation for the Z from Volk for over a decade and it kinda just stuck

@hotrodZ_166 on IG is running 315's in front on an 18x11 . . .+16 i think but thats sa full aero track beast

 

[FSUZ33]

Are the known similarities/differences between lip clearance and inner clearance on the Z34 vs RZ34? Obviously there are MANY more examples of wheel sizes/fitments on 370's, so when I'm bored and inevitably end up wondering "Can I fit 20x12 on the rear?" there's more info to pull from.

 

[OptionZero]

Are the known similarities/differences between lip clearance and inner clearance on the Z34 vs RZ34? Obviously there are MANY more examples of wheel sizes/fitments on 370's, so when I'm bored and inevitably end up wondering "Can I fit 20x12 on the rear?" there's more info to pull from.

haven't done any measurements but sure seems like they're the same based on fitments floating out there. any minor differences can be accounted for in alignment

also, yes, you can fit 20x12 in the rear
20x12, +20
315/25/20
-2 camber

This is where my fitment actually could have been better:
the 20x11, +15 fronts are MUCH more aggressive than the 20x12, +20 rears.
Look at the last pic, you can see a chasm of clearance
I could have done a 325/25/20, EASILY. That was only -2 camber!

Had I gotten 20x10.5 +22 fronts it would have "matched" the same level of poke

(To match the 20x11 +15 fronts i would need to be 5 to 10mm more aggressive in rear)

i don't wanna hear anything about lack of tire bc 315 rears are plenty

 

[VR30Infection]

That’s not enough tire

 

[OptionZero]

if 315 is enough for a turbo z with aero then i think its enough for 99% of Z's in existance

 

[trackratZ]

Good to see lots of possibilities, spacers, pulled fenders, etc. For now I'll stick with 285/35 on 10.5 +23 all around square, -3 front camber, need it for the ability to rotate, track tires are expensive!