Factory audio system questions.

[50thZ]

JBL BassPro Hub (11.5in woofer). HUGE difference on my Non Bose system . I let a pro install the JBL it was pricey but well worth it, he did it the right way by getting the audio source from the radio itself . He had the Z for about 4 hrs charged 3 hrs labor plus the JBL and related wiring.
I used 6.5 front speakers by Powerbass direct fit. The audio is AMAZING! A huge improvement.
I do not understand the love affair automakers have with Bose.

 

[tractng]

JBL BassPro Hub (11.5in woofer). HUGE difference on my Non Bose system . I let a pro install the JBL it was pricey but well worth it, he did it the right way by getting the audio source from the radio itself . He had the Z for about 4 hrs charged 3 hrs labor plus the JBL and related wiring.
I used 6.5 front speakers by Powerbass direct fit. The audio is AMAZING! A huge improvement.
I do not understand the love affair automakers have with Bose.

Do you know if he took out the headunit?

 

[50thZ]

Do you know if he took out the headunit?

I am not 100% sure, however, there were hand marks on the dash and radio. I have seen videos that is where they source the audio.

 

[tractng]

I was hoping getting the source from the rear speakers would be enough.

 

[50thZ]

I was hoping getting the source from the rear speakers would be enough.

I was told that but the best way is to go through the radio, less issues of distortion and reliability.

 

[takemorepills]

I was hoping getting the source from the rear speakers would be enough.

Nope. The signal at the speaker connection is processed by the amplifier programming.
Nissan vehicles send clean signal from the head unit to the external amp. It's far better to intercept that signal than to connect to the speaker and use post-processing to correct the signal

 

[50thZ]

Nope. The signal at the speaker connection is processed by the amplifier programming.
Nissan vehicles send clean signal from the head unit to the external amp. It's far better to intercept that signal than to connect to the speaker and use post-processing to correct the signal

Thanks for explaining what I thought was true.

 

[beergeek]

… at least verify 100% that each of the aftermarket speakers you are installing match the impedance (ohms / Ω) of each the OEM speakers you're replacing them with.

Do you know the impedance of stock Bose speakers?
I’ve seen claims that the doors are 2-Ohm, but have seen conflicting info on the dash (2- or 4-Ohm).

 

[50thZ]

Do you know the impedance of stock Bose speakers?
I’ve seen claims that the doors are 2-Ohm, but have seen conflicting info on the dash (2- or 4-Ohm).

The doors are 4ohm the rear are 2ohm Not sure what the front ones are, these are the Non Bose

 

[Mugzilla]

The doors are 4ohm the rear are 2ohm Not sure what the front ones are, these are the Non Bose

A polite correction:

Dash: 4 Ohm
Rear: 4 Ohm
SPORT stock Door speakers: 2 Ohm.


See @Exquisite_Red 's post and pics on pg 3 of this thread:
https://www.nissanzclub.com/forum/threads/sport-model-audio-solution-thread.2886/page-3

What does this mean? Means Nissan audio engineers are cheap, lazy a-holes. (Why do you say that, Mug?)

Sport audio system is 4 channels, but has SIX speakers. (See pg 2 of the above thread) Dealing with the FRONT LEFT channel, Audio comes OUT of the head unit (Terminal 2), powers BOTH the dash and door speakers (Different resistances, mind you), then BACK to the head unit through terminal 3. . So, you have different resistances in the same circuit with each other. If you use 4 ohm dash AND door speakers, the dash speakers SCREAM. You can barely hear the door speakers.

I learned this (the easy way,) by actually doing it. I corrected my post earlier in the above referenced thread (pg 1) to use PowerBass 2 ohm door speakers in the Sport. I can only speak to the Sport model.





(While I'm bashing Nissan audio) How ELSE are they a-holes? It's 4 channels, but has 6 speakers, the front left and front right have 2 speakers each. One is a 6.5". The rear-left and rear-right are teeny, tiny speakers. Why not put 6.5" rear speakers instead of the non-standard 3.5"? How hard did they have to work to make the rear ones sound so crappy?

 

[alutwon]

yea the rear speakers, why even bother Nissan? they should have made 6x9 and put them in the rear hatch, at least we could have had some decent rear fill to the sound. that being said I do like audio system but then again my only other car is basically made of sheet metal and rubber bands, so it's not a high bar.

 

[50thZ]

A polite correction:

Dash: 4 Ohm
Rear: 4 Ohm
SPORT stock Door speakers: 2 Ohm.


See @Exquisite_Red 's post and pics on pg 3 of this thread:
https://www.nissanzclub.com/forum/threads/sport-model-audio-solution-thread.2886/page-3

What does this mean? Means Nissan audio engineers are cheap, lazy a-holes. (Why do you say that, Mug?)

Sport audio system is 4 channels, but has SIX speakers. (See pg 2 of the above thread) Dealing with the FRONT LEFT channel, Audio comes OUT of the head unit (Terminal 2), powers BOTH the dash and door speakers (Different resistances, mind you), then BACK to the head unit through terminal 3. . So, you have different resistances in the same circuit with each other. If you use 4 ohm dash AND door speakers, the dash speakers SCREAM. You can barely hear the door speakers.

I learned this (the easy way,) by actually doing it. I corrected my post earlier in the above referenced thread (pg 1) to use PowerBass 2 ohm door speakers in the Sport. I can only speak to the Sport model.





(While I'm bashing Nissan audio) How ELSE are they a-holes? It's 4 channels, but has 6 speakers, the front left and front right have 2 speakers each. One is a 6.5". The rear-left and rear-right are teeny, tiny speakers. Why not put 6.5" rear speakers instead of the non-standard 3.5"? How hard did they have to work to make the rear ones sound so crappy?

Well, unless Nissan changed the specs the speakers that were removed from my Z on the door were 4ohm my rears were 2ohm. Not sure why??

 

[Mugzilla]

Well, unless Nissan changed the specs the speakers that were removed from my Z on the door were 4ohm my rears were 2ohm. Not sure why??

OK, that's HUGE. IF they did, they may have changed the pin-out for the front speakers out of the head unit. Wouldn't happen to have those old speakers laying around? Folks that decide to use that replacement wiring harness could be in for a surprise if the power, or wire positions, are different.

I will change my "A polite correction" to, "I would like to state, in the most polite terms, what my 2024 Sport's door speakers ohm rating is."

Any 2025-2026 Sport owners have a few minutes to pull a door panel and a speaker to take a look at the stated ohm rating?

 

[50thZ]

OK, that's HUGE. IF they did, they may have changed the pin-out for the front speakers out of the head unit. Wouldn't happen to have those old speakers laying around? Folks that decide to use that replacement wiring harness could be in for a surprise if the power, or wire positions, are different.

I will change my "A polite correction" to, "I would like to state, in the most polite terms, what my 2024 Sport's door speakers ohm rating is."

Any 2025-2026 Sport owners have a few minutes to pull a door panel and a speaker to take a look at the stated ohm rating?

Wow,that is what I saw. I will confirm again, however with the installer to make 100% sure. Thanks for your input

 

[50thZ]

Wow,that is what I saw. I will confirm again, however with the installer to make 100% sure. Thanks for your input

Checked with the installer and where I purchased the speakers. I STAND CORRECTED they are in fact 2 OHMS. my bad I hope this clears things up. My apologies to all.