Factory audio system questions.

staying_tuned

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FSUZ33

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Although it’s a very interesting thread, I only understood about 8% of it.

4 out of 5 non-audiophiles wanna know…Is it possible to get better sound by swapping the door and cabin speakers?

Not looking for $4,500 6x9’s. Not trying to wake the neighbors with crazy volume or bass. I just want it a little crisper and cleaner.

Is it worth spending a little money and time on if I’m not adding amps and subs and crossovers and yeti cup sized capacitors?

If so, what should I look for and what should I avoid? Talking more about spec’s rather than brand name. I know what amps and ohms are, but have no clue how they play into a DIY speaker swap. Something called RMS…? Does that even factor in? idk.

Don‘t expect a dissertation on sound systems, but would appreciate a little info and advice, even if it’s as simple as ‘Not worth it.’
 
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Although it’s a very interesting thread, I only understood about 8% of it.

4 out of 5 non-audiophiles wanna know…Is it possible to get better sound by swapping the door and cabin speakers?

Not looking for $4,500 6x9’s. Not trying to wake the neighbors with crazy volume or bass. I just want it a little crisper and cleaner.

Is it worth spending a little money and time on if I’m not adding amps and subs and crossovers and yeti cup sized capacitors?

If so, what should I look for and what should I avoid? Talking more about spec’s rather than brand name. I know what amps and ohms are, but have no clue how they play into a DIY speaker swap. Something called RMS…? Does that even factor in? idk.

Don‘t expect a dissertation on sound systems, but would appreciate a little info and advice, even if it’s as simple as ‘Not worth it.’
My opinion is that it's 'not worth it' to simply swap out speakers in these types of OEM system, or more accurately I should say it's a crapshoot. Reason being is doing so doesn't factor in all the processing and power parameters that are already baked into the OEM audio system's electronics, which are specifically designed to work with the OEM speakers.

That said, you might get lucky and achieve the minimal improvements you're after with simple speaker swaps IF you happen to find aftermarket speakers that happen to play well (and safely) with the OEM processing and power.

If you do go through with the experiment, at a bare minimum you're going to want to at least verify 100% that each of the aftermarket speakers you are installing match the impedance (ohms / Ω) of each the OEM speakers you're replacing them with. This is very important because if you mismatch the impedance of the aftermarket speakers you can at best have reduced volume output (not harmful, but not ideal either), or at worse damage the OEM amplifier that's powering them. Complicating this endeavor is that many modern OEM audio systems' amplifiers and speakers do not operate on standard 4Ω which is how most aftermarket car audio speakers are designed (subwoofers are a whole other ballpark though).

Hope this info help. Good luck.

$0.02 and some pocket lint.
 
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staying_tuned

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@FSUZ33 JL makes supporting speakers with a very low need RMS-wise at like 25 watts per that I was originally going to get, cheap too at like $120 a pair? Something like that, it’s in the thread I posted but those would be the only ones I’d gamble a no amp speaker swap with. Basically guaranteed better sound withiout breaking the bank but you’ll have to level-set your expectations especially around bass output. They may hit tighter and crisper but you wont “feel” them like you do pushing even 50 clean watts to a 6x9 etc. via dedicated aftermarket amp.
 

staying_tuned

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I must have bad ears. To me, this system isn't all that bad.
It isn’t terrible but it is pretty gutless when you want to crank just about any style of music and “feel” it. That said if I was short on time or I didn’t want to fuss much with it I’d for sure just add a powered sub for like $250 all in and call it done.
 
 






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