Factory audio system questions.

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Mr. Mac

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On the passenger side there is a grommet near the battery. Prettu easy access. I disconnect the two rear speaks. And used the factory sub input for the JBL. But you have to have the ASC turned off. I havent made anyother audio upgrades. Justa wanted some bass.

What was purpose of disconnecting the two rear speakers? Also, do you recall color of wires that were used from original sub to feed audio signal to aftermarket sub? Going off memory here, but I think there were maybe four wires in the OEM connector that plugs into the Bose sub.
 
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UPDATE for anyone following this; That mystery speaker in left dash-only that initially looked like a single tweeter is in fact a dedicated speaker for driver safety alerts, hands-free call audio, and navigation prompts. Confirmed this last night.
 

iztrumental

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UPDATE for anyone following this; That mystery speaker in left dash-only that initially looked like a single tweeter is in fact a dedicated speaker for driver safety alerts, hands-free call audio, and navigation prompts. Confirmed this last night.
Thx for the update and info!
 

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UPDATE for anyone following this; That mystery speaker in left dash-only that initially looked like a single tweeter is in fact a dedicated speaker for driver safety alerts, hands-free call audio, and navigation prompts. Confirmed this last night.
That kind of seems to make sense. I do notice my messenger notification sounds and what ever else tend to come from the LH dash corner when connected to android auto
 

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If anyone removes the rear speakers on a sport, please post pics. Please measure the hole diameter and the hole depth. If there is enough material around the hole, it could be enlarged to house a standard sized speaker.

If anyone has pics of the factory speaker wiring connector, please post them. I'm going to install better 6.5" in the front, 5.25" in the rear, and want to find an adapter so I don't have to cut the factory wires.

I have an air nibbler and a Dremel, and can waller out the 4.5" rear speaker holes to make the 5.25" fit.
 
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If anyone remembers, I had written, "Can you put 6x9 speakers in the door?", and now it isn't here? Someone else posted the same thing, then said, "I'm going to stick with the 6.5". The REASON is, you need a spacer to hold the 6x9 forward from the door, so it is closer to the door panel. the stock door spacers will do that for the 6.5".
 

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What was purpose of disconnecting the two rear speakers? Also, do you recall color of wires that were used from original sub to feed audio signal to aftermarket sub? Going off memory here, but I think there were maybe four wires in the OEM connector that plugs into the Bose sub.
Did you ever figure these out? I too am wondering.

Thanks!
 

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That would make sense. Not too sure why the sub output couldn't be used as hi-level, though.

I should have clarified my sentence; Willing to bet drunkumbrella used the rear speaker wires as high level inputs for his subwoofer, AND DID NOT SPLIT OFF OF THEM. He could have made the factory + and - audio in to TWO + and 2 - audio wires. One set would go to the subwoofer high level input, and the extra could go to the rear anemic 4/5" speakers.
 

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@Mr. Mac I have ordered new Pioneer 2.5, 6.5, and 5.25 speakers. I plan to document the installation to include how to get to the rear speakers w/o ruining the panels or Christmas trees. I also want to find compatible factory-to-speaker connectors so the next person doesn't wire a speaker out of phase.
 

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Just FYI, you may want to rethink use of pioneer speakers. They are very inefficient and Bose systems thrive on low ohms. You may want to go with JBL, or Infinity as they typically are much more efficient and have ohm ratings of 2-2.5 @ 92-94 dbs. Pioneers have dbs in the low 80's and are rated a 4 ohms.

The speaker wire adapters are readily available on Amazon. The adapter for the speakers in the dash are Nissan tweeter adapters and the other speakers have regular Nissan adapters they have used for years.

I have a 24 Z performance and swapped out the 6x9 in the doors and they are now a direct fit with most all 6x9 without on adapters of any kind.

To really make a change with this system you need to capture the pre-out signal going into the Bose amp from the head unit using a RCA converter (not a line out converter). The signals coming from the head unit to the amp are about 2 volts which is sufficient to simply use a RCA adapter if you can get the wiring schematic to figure out which wire is carrying each signal. There should be 8 wires altogether. A + and - right front and left and same for rear. Each of those signals are full range as the amp does the crossing over. You can also use any two of those wires for the sub signal.

This is what I figured out so far.
 

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Yes for each
 

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@Lenk

Thank you for the other recommendations on speakers. Yes, those others will flow more "current" (for lack of a better word). However, E= I x R. Voltage is a constant. If you lower resistance, the current through the wiring, and through the head unit is double.

My car is a Sport models, which, if Nissan thinks their Bose system is premium, I am really afraid of what corners they cut in the stock deck.

80+ dBs from a stock deck to my hearing impaired butt by not pushing the deck hard is fine by me.


Now, since I have the sport, I do not think I have an option to use an RCA adapter. I'll have to use a line out converter, or use high level inputs on the amp. Again, I'm not looking to enter in to stereo contests. I just want the speakers to sound better than a 1980's walkman headset cranked to 11.
 
 





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