Factory audio system questions.

[ShearMe]

That's an awesome idea! How much did it cost, and what kind of shop did this (or did you DIY)?

I searched around my area for automotive interior/upholstery and found a shop that had pictures of exotic cars with various cosmetic mods. Recon Central in Carrollton, Tx https://maps.app.goo.gl/s8X21NUXHCrefQsY6

$2k for this job, which is a bit spendy. Maybe could have shopped around for a cheaper quote but seeing their other work gave me confidence. I am very happy with the result.

Now I'm thinking Nissan could have done better with the interior molding to utilize this chasis's space.

 

[Mr. Mac]

Update on system here for anyone interested >>> https://www.nissanzclub.com/forum/threads/project-bose-be-gone-completed.2610/#post-72222

 

[Mrdeep]

Ok so I'm starting on my replacement journey as many of you have. Plan on installing the 10w7 and slash 6 amp from my old 370, and a set of C6 components up front with an active crossover setup. I shared my aspirations with the installer and got some feedback I wasn't expecting.

He told me that there is no way to bypass the Bose amp into upgraded component speaker because 'everything runs through the bose.' I was told that there are ways to bypass with other cars, but there isn't one currently for our car.

How have y'all pulled the Bose system and installed new components? Has there any impact to other elements of your infotainment?

 

[Mr. Mac]

Ok so I'm starting on my replacement journey as many of you have. Plan on installing the 10w7 and slash 6 amp from my old 370, and a set of C6 components up front with an active crossover setup. I shared my aspirations with the installer and got some feedback I wasn't expecting.

He told me that there is no way to bypass the Bose amp into upgraded component speaker because 'everything runs through the bose.' I was told that there are ways to bypass with other cars, but there isn't one currently for our car.

How have y'all pulled the Bose system and installed new components? Has there any impact to other elements of your infotainment?

Hi - Your installer is incorrect (thankfully lol). Take a look at this other thread for proof of this, and feel free to ask any question afterwards if needed for how to accomplish aftermarket audio goodness tied to factory head unit with zero probs and all elements of infotainment retained. >>> https://www.nissanzclub.com/forum/threads/project-bose-be-gone-audio-upgrade-completed.2610/

 

[Mrdeep]

Hi - Your installer is incorrect (thankfully lol). Take a look at this other thread for proof of this, and feel free to ask any question afterwards if needed for how to accomplish aftermarket audio goodness tied to factory head unit with zero probs and all elements of infotainment retained. >>> https://www.nissanzclub.com/forum/threads/project-bose-be-gone-audio-upgrade-completed.2610/

I had a feeling after seeing your thread that this was the case... I may just link your thread to him so he can read up on it and get the install done. Your posts have been tremendously helpful btw. Thank you for all the details

 

[Mrdeep]

Hi - Your installer is incorrect (thankfully lol). Take a look at this other thread for proof of this, and feel free to ask any question afterwards if needed for how to accomplish aftermarket audio goodness tied to factory head unit with zero probs and all elements of infotainment retained. >>> https://www.nissanzclub.com/forum/threads/project-bose-be-gone-audio-upgrade-completed.2610/

Ok so second attempt failed. Going to try another shop I believe...

Installer said he wouldn't be able to do it without an 'ampro' connector out of the factory unit to bypass the Bose. I'm annoyed more than anything. Even showed him the diagrams and your other thread.

I'm not educated on this enough to explain how you did it beyond the images you have shared. Would love any guidance!

 

[Mr. Mac]

Ok so second attempt failed. Going to try another shop I believe...

Installer said he wouldn't be able to do it without an 'ampro' connector out of the factory unit to bypass the Bose. I'm annoyed more than anything. Even showed him the diagrams and your other thread.

I'm not educated on this enough to explain how you did it beyond the images you have shared. Would love any guidance!

Here, maybe this will help.

Top'Left photo shows location of the factory Bose amplifier. Once amplifier is unbolted from chassis it lifts up for access to the plugs that go into it. When facing the side of amplifier that has the connection it's the plug all the way on left side that you'll want to grab unadulterated audio signal coming from the factory head unit. There's several ways to do this, but the way I recommend is by simply soldering leads directly the factory four wires identified below that go into that plug (1, 2, 9, 10), heat shrink them for insulation/protection, plug the factory connector back into the Bose amplifier and re-mount it to chassis. This way nothing is changed about the factory Bose amplifier at all, and now you can take the four leads that are tapping those four factory audio signal wires to feed the aftermarket audio system. I have no use for fade control from head unit on aftermarket system since I set all my levels in the DSP, which is why I'm only tapping the front left/right signal wires and not the rear left/right. If you happen to want fade control for some reason, just do the same lead tapping described here for pins 3, 4, 11, 12 too which are the factory rear audio wires from head unit identified here: 3. Rear/Left +, 11. Rear/Left –, 4. Rear/Right +, 12. Rear/Right – . All + wires for both front and rear signal are RED, and all – wires for front and rear signal are BLUE.

If your installer isn't up on how to do this from diagram and photos I would advise seeking out one who is. It's pretty straight forward stuff for any installer worth their salt.

 

[Mrdeep]

You're a life saver. I'm gonna go to another shop and ask for their help since I'm a bit burned out on this dude.

Thank you!

 

[Intrepid Z]

You can drastically improve this system with a DSP amp new front component speakers and a sub that fits in the spare tire wheel well. I went with the Match Up 10 DSP amp that fit in the Bose Amp location and I found a Match Up spare tire two six inch subwoofer on Ebay for $300 and Morel front speakers. The entire setup cost me $2500 but the sound quality is absolutely amazing once tuned even with the stock rears. It is actually an easy install that does not require running new wires although a direct power line to the batter is recommended. Other European stereo companies such as Audison have similar amps that I believe are less expensive

Hello mate, I’m also in the process of installing an UP 10DSP and the PP 7S-D subwoofer set up. I’m busy creating a harness, I have a quick question.

The sub input has 8 wires total, but the output from the amplifier is only going to be 4 wires total (channels J & I). Do you have any information about how you wired it that you could share?

Thank you

 

[OCPanther]

I replaced the factory Bose sub with the JBL hub. Also I had the dealer turn off the ANC and ASE.
Big improvement!

I love your setup. What did that cost if you don't mind me asking?

 

[staying_tuned]

There's several ways to do this, but the way I recommend is by simply soldering leads directly the factory four wires identified below that go into that plug (1, 2, 9, 10), heat shrink them for insulation/protection.

Tremendous asset, thanks a ton for posting this. I recently performed a very basic upgrade in my F150 with Kicker KS components up front and a set of rears. Driving them is Kickers Key 200.4. Then I've got a Kicker Hideaway HS10 sub. Despite not spending a ton (all in all, with PNP's adapter I was under $1,100) yet it sounds incredible and gets eons louder than I can handle. That little HS-10 powered 10" will rattle the whole truck, it's crazy.

I'd be 100% comfortable soldering/tapping like you suggest, I simply cannot believe we have access to essentially a full audio interface like this honestly.

It makes me wonder if I could go with the following in the Z.

- Kicker KS line component speakers up front (great experience with them in my truck)
- Kicker Key 200.4 in bi-amp mode driving fronts, abandon rears all together (KEY DSP handles tuning flawlessly vs. active/passive component crossovers)
- Kicker HS-10 powered sub in rear
- Then I'd just run power & ground to both the Key 200.4 and HS-10 powered sub. Both the Key 200.4 and HS-10 sense signal so no remote wire needed.

Hmmmm. Could it be that easy? I know the existing component speaker wire is thin but I'd be running such low wattage. Lastly, no issues soldering but I bet I could find female pins to have a nice & tidy p-n-p tap on 1, 2, 9 & 10 like so:

Anyhow, thanks again for sharing the above!

 

[Y2jimmyk]

Hi - Just acquired the new Z and was shocked to learn how bad the factory audio system is. Incredibly sub-par at this price point, and it's supposedly the "Premium Bose" system too. Criminally bad. Just terrible. Anyway, so I'm beginning my research on how to fix this unforeseen injustice and the first thing I'm finding is there's what appears to be only one tweeter in the dash on the left/driver's side. There's no way this can be correct, is it? Reason I'm asking is there are clearly visible perforation holes over what appears to be ~4" midrange drivers on each dash grille, but perforation holes only over one ~1" tweeter on the left/driver's grille, while the other grille has no perforation holes for tweeter on right/passenger side. Has anybody here explored deeper yet underneath these grilles to determine exactly what's going on with the dash speakers? Also, any info on exactly what size and type speaker(s) are in the new Z's doors and in rear behind each seat. I've checked with Crutchfield already and they still have no data for the new Z. Any advanced info would be greatly appreciated before I go reading into things. Being a hardcore music lover and audiophile this is completely unacceptable and must be corrected ASAP. Thanks

I changed the Stereo speakers out and added 2 amps. The doors are able to house 6x9 speakers, just need spacers so they don’t hit the door hinge when opened or closed. Also need to disconnect the Bose microphones inside car

 

[staying_tuned]

@Mr. Mac I was hoping you could clarify a point on the bose amp wiring you mentioned above. The identified leads which provide clean factory signal can drive an aftermarket amp nicely, I'm planning to go that route as you've suggested. My query revolves around the factory speaker-wires themselves.

I'll be using a kicker key 200.4 for the dash and door speakers, the factory wiring should suffice but I'm having a heck of a time finding any sort of colored (or labeled) diagram for the speaker cables running from the bose amp back out to the speakers.

My goal would be to pick up signal where you've described for my amp then just run the kicker amp's wiring to the factory speaker wires. Do you happen to know which speaker wires are for the dash and doors?

Thanks in advance for any insight!