Catch Can Thoughts

[FSUZ33]

Got my Mishimoto catch can. Doesn't need to happen before it's installed, but I'd like to fab a drain line with valve. The can has a plug in the bottom, but I can't break it loose. I've tried everything but clamping the can in a vise, which I prefer not to do. Anyone else tried this and had success removing it?

 

[Midz10]

Got my Mishimoto catch can. Doesn't need to happen before it's installed, but I'd like to fab a drain line with valve. The can has a plug in the bottom, but I can't break it loose. I've tried everything but clamping the can in a vise, which I prefer not to do. Anyone else tried this and had success removing it?

Try heating it. They might have used a Loctite or something like that.

 

[FSUZ33]

Try heating it. They might have used a Loctite or something like that.

I got it.
It did have Loctite or some type of thread locker.
The plug is also tapered, I think 3/8 NPT. Assume the hole is as well, but didn’t measure.

I got a little frustrated, wrapped a shop towel around it (the paper towel kind), put it between two pcs of pine in the vise and smacked the Allen wrench with a brass mallet. Can spun a little on the first two whacks, so I sent it on the third and it broke loose. BIG vise (at work) and squeezed it pretty good (whole thing, can attached to top) and it didn’t mar the finish AT ALL nor did it tweak the can. Still screws on and off like butter.

Like Sex Panther cologne, the Mishimoto catch can is quite formidable.

 

[FSUZ33]

Only install video I found was from Mishimoto. Install looks pretty simple, although everything you do takes a different tool. Removing the intercooler inlet and outlet connections appeared to be the biggest pain. Thinking I'd start at the intercooler, but that's not how Mishimoto did it. Does it matter?

 

[5amp5on]

Only install video I found was from Mishimoto. Install looks pretty simple, although everything you do takes a different tool. Removing the intercooler inlet and outlet connections appeared to be the biggest pain. Thinking I'd start at the intercooler, but that's not how Mishimoto did it. Does it matter?

I followed the YouTube instructions step by step and it they served me well. The inter cooler is a pain in the ass getting reinstalled. Best to have a good set of pic tools for the tubes.

 

[offizial]

I got it.
It did have Loctite or some type of thread locker.
The plug is also tapered, I think 3/8 NPT. Assume the hole is as well, but didn’t measure.

I got a little frustrated, wrapped a shop towel around it (the paper towel kind), put it between two pcs of pine in the vise and smacked the Allen wrench with a brass mallet. Can spun a little on the first two whacks, so I sent it on the third and it broke loose. BIG vise (at work) and squeezed it pretty good (whole thing, can attached to top) and it didn’t mar the finish AT ALL nor did it tweak the can. Still screws on and off like butter.

Like Sex Panther cologne, the Mishimoto catch can is quite formidable.

If you are venting with a line to the frame, why not just plug the intake port on passenger side, leave pcv valve, and save the money on a catch can. Running a line directly from pcv valve to a breather filter then to the frame? This won't work in California, but no emissions where I am so I am thinking of doing it rather than buying the catch can.

 

[offizial]

But that might not be the best idea as the negative pressure pulls the vapors out of the pcv line. IMO, a use of a check valve on the vent line might be important with this, and leave the pcv valve connected to the intake through the catch can. You don't want the vent line acting as an extra intake. Was looking at some Q60 forums as I was thinking about where the blow by goes at WOT. Noticed theres 2 more lines that purge to the intake side on each turbo. Either way, the intake valves are getting caked, catch can or not from what I am seeing. Need 3 cans for optimal filtering, totally custom. Going to leave this here. https://www.infinitiq60.org/threads/mishimoto-q60-50-catch-can-design.15862/

 

[FSUZ33]

Wasn’t planning on venting. I’d like to add a small ball valve to drain vs unscrewing the can each time. I have a tendency to overengineer and complicate things. As my buddy would say, “pole vaulting over mouse turds.” So my plan now is to install everything as-is (with the plug) to see if its even worth adding a drain.

 

[offizial]

But that might not be the best idea as the negative pressure pulls the vapors out of the pcv line. IMO, a use of a check valve on the vent line might be important with this, and leave the pcv valve connected to the intake through the catch can. You don't want the vent line acting as an extra intake

Wasn’t planning on venting. I’d like to add a small ball valve to drain vs unscrewing the can each time. I have a tendency to overengineer and complicate things. As my buddy would say, “pole vaulting over mouse turds.” So my plan now is to install everything as-is (with the plug) to see if its even worth adding a drain.

I see. Definitely the way to go

 

[Who.Am.Eye.2716]

@FSUZ33

You can add a drain kit to the Z1 can
https://www.z1motorsports.com/oil-catch-can/z1-motorsports/z1-catch-can-drain-kit-p-58906.html

 

[FSUZ33]

@FSUZ33

You can add a drain kit to the Z1 can
https://www.z1motorsports.com/oil-catch-can/z1-motorsports/z1-catch-can-drain-kit-p-58906.html

Nice Mishimoto’s is $72+. Don’t know if Z1’s barb fitting fits the Mishimoto can, 3/8 NPT, but I can get a brass one at Lowes for probably $5. Going to install tomorrow and see how everything fits and what space it’s got before pulling the trigger.

Thanks!

 

[FSUZ33]

First impressions of the Mishimoto catch can: Not impressed
Everything seems to be great quality. My problem, at least at this point, is the design itself.

Decided to start by mounting the bracket and can first. That way I can evaluate whether a drain is worth it. Then I’d tackle the piping/intercooler end.

- I installed the inlet and outlet to the can, and the can to the bracket.
- Removed the two radiator support screws and installed Mishimoto’s longer bolts with large flat washers.
- Loosely installed the small flat washer and nut on the catch can side.
- Positioned the bracket/can on the protruding bolts and noticed a figment issue.

The bottom of the can smashes one of the coolant pipes. Like really smashes it. Down to half its diameter or more. I don’t like that. There’s room to move it a little closer to the engine. If they were stuck putting it in that spot they could and should have done a better job. I wasn’t expecting a forged carbon work of art, but for $300 the damn thing should at least fit.

Not giving up yet. I can get longer bolts and machine a plate or spacers to go between the bracket and radiator support to shift it closer to the engine. Another thing could be tweaking the bracket to shift it up a little. Will need to remount it, put some clay on top and close the hood to see how much clearance is there.

Really annoyed right now.

Appreciate advice if you’ve got some to give.

Borrowed this pic from @C89

 

[5amp5on]

Mine does not impact that line. Did you make sure to shift it all the way towards the passenger side with the bracket. It can adjust side to side before tightening.

One of the reasons I went with the mishi over Z1 is that Z1’s instructions specifically mention possibly having to adjust that A/C line for fitment.

 

[FSUZ33]

I didn’t tighten the nuts, but yes, I shifted it in the slots and held it tight against the support/rail to replicate the position when tight.
If there’s room that another way to avoid contact with that line; extending the slots sideways to shift it further to the left. I like that!

I’d prefer to avoid touching that hose entirely. Not only the possibility of reduced flow, but to avoid abrasion and failure. It has a braided sleeve, most likely PET, for protection, but that could Eventually wear through. NOT SAYING IT WILL, but if nothing’s touching it, it won’t.

Haven‘t got everything together, and it’s possible once the PCV lines are connected it’s not possible, but I think one thing that would help emptying the can, whether unscrewing it or draining from the bottom, would have been a 2-piece bracket with a clamp or fastener that you could undo, separate the part holding the can, and lift the can up a little. MAN it’s tight in there!

 

[5amp5on]

I didn’t tighten the nuts, but yes, I shifted it in the slots and held it tight against the support/rail to replicate the position when tight.
If there’s room that another way to avoid contact with that line; extending the slots sideways to shift it further to the left. I like that!

I’d prefer to avoid touching that hose entirely. Not only the possibility of reduced flow, but to avoid abrasion and failure. It has a braided sleeve, most likely PET, for protection, but that could Eventually wear through. NOT SAYING IT WILL, but if nothing’s touching it, it won’t.

Haven‘t got everything together, and it’s possible once the PCV lines are connected it’s not possible, but I think one thing that would help emptying the can, whether unscrewing it or draining from the bottom, would have been a 2-piece bracket with a clamp or fastener that you could undo, separate the part holding the can, and lift the can up a little. MAN it’s tight in there!

To check/empty I just loosen the two bracket bolts and that gives mine plenty of space/movement for me to unscrew. Would be nice to have a better solution for sure.