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Yea. I’ve got a pop/rattle coming from my hatch over bumps, from my door listening to bass, from the piece above my steering wheel from bumps, and inside my steering wheel from exhaust drone.

What it truly is must be a black vinyl wrap with clear over it. Whether the black is painted over the wrap after placement or not I am not sure. But there’s definitely clear coat connecting them. Sealing it

I noticed that, I didn’t like that about the two tone cars. Idk why they couldn’t match them with a good job. It’s like they painted the whole car blue and then painted black over it.

I read somewhere that where they meet is hand painted. If you see imperfections along that line, that is why. It’s all paint though, and there are no separate pieces. Just another layer of paint for the black with primer underneath. Is blue raised or is the black raised?

Interesting, I thought it only functioned on launch control, but I will try it! thanks for the tip

I’ve got both, CZP under shroud and oil pan. Just got to install

It feels Nissan, hard to explain, but their MT in all models are always like this. They are hard to shift smooth. I see where you’re coming from. The turbos do not help in this case as going through 2-3k rpm the turbos pull you and when you push in the clutch there is a lot of lurch, followed by...

So the Z can take 20-21 psi and be okay in the case of Tuning and tuner boxes. So I’d say that yes, that there’s an issue with the pressure gauge because the car reads what the gauge is saying, then notices the A/F ratio does not signify that specific ratio where the boost pressure gauge is...

For real, I was going to install my tuner box and now I’m thinking not to. Bc they send the boost to 20psi no problems. Whatever it is the car doesn’t like it, but it seems like it’s just cutting fuel, no real problem for the engine to take. I think the wastegate may need to be recalibrated or...

It doesnt do this 1-2? It’s weird. I’d be taking off my intakes as I’ve got the nismo cai and driving to the dealership!!

If you reset the ecu then it can’t be the exhaust. Do you feel the extra boost in performance? This could determine electrical (boost gauge) vs waste gate issue

it’s picking up boost like crazy!

Have you tried resetting the ecu by unplugging the battery? I’m aware that the waste gate is calibrated to the ecu, it might just need a recalibration. Whichever way you go please keep us updated.

If you’re hitting 20psi with only a muffler delete, and no tuner boxes, then technically you’d have a boost leak. We should look at this in the simplest way possible. I doubt this is true that you have an active boost leak. If your intake had a hole/was disconnected, the MAF sensor would notice...

I appreciate all the advice and replies! Unfortunately, my only options were places like caliber collision (who I’ve had issues with in the past before they were rebranded from Price’s) where the exact same thing that happened at this dealership occurred there too. or dealership for body work...

Thank you for the heads up. Probably saved me if I don’t already have damage.. is there a good way to check the harnesses? Could you see the damage?

I was able to find where the whine is, it’s coming from something with the transmission position sensor. Not sure if it’s normal for it to whine like it is but when I shift into N it’s quieter, and when going from 1-6 there’s a buzz coming from it. When I called the dealership they said they’d...

I did not, but I may next time. It does not state to do that in the manual, only lock the car and wait 10 minutes. I don’t know why it doesn’t state to disconnect the battery.

Hi, this may be a good question for @Will-Stillen but when I tried to put in my stillen tru control, those two boxes they plug into, what are those? When I unplugged and plugged in the harness I noticed they got incredibly hot, like 150 degrees hot and not cooling down. I ended up backing out...

Yea! They’re super nice