This particular dealer is certified to install Nismo and Z1 parts. So...? Who knows, tho. I have no idea if they preloaded the suspension before torquing things down. I will certainly mention it to the local dealer I'm going to on Thursday. Thanks.
It’s not that they “won’t work” as far as can not be installed or adjusted at all. It’s that when you lower the car, the ends of the bar will be angled upward. Ideally, you would lengthen the end links to get the sway bar to be parallel to the ground, however, with the rear of the Z, the camber arms are in the way so this cannot be achieved. With a lowered car, in general, geometry is compromised in many cases. With the Z, this issue is one that rears its ugly head. I’m starting to believe this is why a lot of guys that track their car say to run as thick of a bar up front as you can but to retain the factory rear bar. When a sway bars ends are at an angle it causes the bar to perform stiffer than it would if it were properly adjusted. I am looking into rear spindle replacements to remedy this issue with geometry correction but I’m in a weird place right now where I’m contemplating making a vehicle change in which case it would be counterproductive for me to move fwd. if you’re going to be driving aggressively, I would suggest a front bar of your choice and keep the factory rear bar. You could get adjustable end links up front but it’s not necessary at all unless you lower your car way over an inch. There is no binding or noise at all and it performs flawlessly with the factory end links. (I believe people that have issues up front have installed the front bar upside down which causes binding) get the necessary arms to get a proper alignment (proper as in NOT back to factory specs). Up front you want more negative camber than what is called for from the factory and more negative camber will plant the car proper in a corner and get rid to the cars major under steer issues upon initial turn in even on factory tires. Once you’ve done all this, based on your tire size choices, if you end up with under steer, THEN, get the rear adjustable bar. But only then. At this point I wish this would have been explained to me. I had to find out the hard way. With the geometry in the rear being lowered about 1 1/4” and having the front bar in the tightest setting and the rear in the loose setting, if ANY throttle is inputted in a corner at all, the ass slides out. Company’s produce parts to sell parts. They care about making money. Just because something is available for purchase, doesn’t mean it’s needed. (Write that down).
) Not necessarily in that order but that would be the list I would pull from. The KW will probably feel more plush due to being a twin tube design though. You will get a good ride and the car will handle better and be more composed at the same time while gaining better dampers than factory that are tuned to the spring rates.
From what I’ve read lately it seems the HKS Hipermax S would be a good fit for what you’re after.