What did you do with your Z today? 🙋🏻‍♂️

[traska_rz34]

Been a bit! I got the Z1 duckbill installed. Looks great but hyper paranoid by the fact that's only installed with 3M tape...

Also just got my Blitz engine strut in today to yank out the Z1 3-point brace that keeps knocking non-stop in the cabin. Pretty sure I'm going to take out my Z1 engine cover as well as this point.

Also got in the Evo-R carbon fiber katana covers from CZP but it's too cold here in FL to apply yet. I'll apply that later this weekend but I staged some pics. Fitment is absolutely butter.

 

[HuskeRZ34]

Been a bit! I got the Z1 duckbill installed. Looks great but hyper paranoid by the fact that's only installed with 3M tape...

Also just got my Blitz engine strut in today to yank out the Z1 3-point brace that keeps knocking non-stop in the cabin. Pretty sure I'm going to take out my Z1 engine cover as well as this point.

Also got in the Evo-R carbon fiber katana covers from CZP but it's too cold here in FL to apply yet. I'll apply that later this weekend but I staged some pics. Fitment is absolutely butter.

I’m digging the carbon fiber!

 

[Neutr0n]

you think my warranty is void by now LOL

 

[trackratZ]

you think my warranty is void by now LOL

Just routine diff fluid change, still full warranty!!

 

[Imperial]

Nismo goodies for the Nismo...

 

[BigBlue]

While some cars say to over fill a little, I don’t think you guys are reading the manual accurately. I also know of some cars that will give a big problem if they are overfilled! So we have to make sure we get it right…..
The way I read the owner's manual, it appears that they want us to fill it from Max, to Max -9mm (not +9mm like was mentioned). So what I think what they are trying to say, is that for normal driving it has to be anywhere from Min to Max. But for performance driving it has to be between Max and 9mm below max only. (Not 25mm all the way down to the Min line) so basically from 2/3 full to Max.
Here is the part of the owners manual that I’m referring to:

In reference to reading the manual accurately. We can further read the manual and or apply the correct use of punctuations VS symbols. For example, do you see how you wrote the minus. You get extra points for writing it correctly but that's not how it was written in the manual. For any of you that were a sleep in English class a minus(symbol) is always shorter and thinner than a dash(punctuation). When you write a white paper, procedures or a manual that will be published and considered a high authority or standard you stay with the same format throughout said publication. For example, if you use 2 then you stay with that instead of two. So, when you read the Nissan manual(accurately) you'll see when they refer to a minus symbol it looks nothing like the dash punctuation that you read. I say we set that all to the side and get to the reason why people come to sites like this. Their hoping to find good info from people with more experience or empirical data from actually doing the work. In closing, the only thing worse than running 20wt oil on the track is running it 9mm or what the f@#k ever low on the dip stick while staying with Nissan's 10k OCI.

 

[trackratZ]

In reference to reading the manual accurately. We can further read the manual and or apply the correct use of punctuations VS symbols. For example, do you see how you wrote the minus. You get extra points for writing it correctly but that's not how it was written in the manual. For any of you that were a sleep in English class a minus(symbol) is always shorter and thinner than a dash(punctuation). When you write a white paper, procedures or a manual that will be published and considered a high authority or standard you stay with the same format throughout said publication. For example, if you use 2 then you stay with that instead of two. So, when you read the Nissan manual(accurately) you'll see when they refer to a minus symbol it looks nothing like the dash punctuation that you read. I say we set that all to the side and get to the reason why people come to sites like this. Their hoping to find good info from people with more experience or empirical data from actually doing the work. In closing, the only thing worse than running 20wt oil on the track is running it 9mm or what the f@#k ever low on the dip stick while staying with Nissan's 10k OCI.

In checking the manual again, note that the entire section under Note: is bolded, Nissan won't make a thinner 'minus' in this case. What I'm sure Nissan is saying is, if running under extreme conditions track, drift, drag, etc. where repeated high rpms and high Gs are encountered, ensure that the oil level is at High (Max) or no more than 9mm lower than Max. In other words ALWAYS good routine to check after every session, just set it back to High (Max), should be safe. I can't vouch for the VR30 running over full, like I said before, my Porsche flat-6 does have that recommendation. Of course under those conditions use at least 5W30 not 0W20.

 

[up4speed]

In reference to reading the manual accurately. We can further read the manual and or apply the correct use of punctuations VS symbols. For example, do you see how you wrote the minus. You get extra points for writing it correctly but that's not how it was written in the manual. For any of you that were a sleep in English class a minus(symbol) is always shorter and thinner than a dash(punctuation). When you write a white paper, procedures or a manual that will be published and considered a high authority or standard you stay with the same format throughout said publication. For example, if you use 2 then you stay with that instead of two. So, when you read the Nissan manual(accurately) you'll see when they refer to a minus symbol it looks nothing like the dash punctuation that you read. I say we set that all to the side and get to the reason why people come to sites like this. Their hoping to find good info from people with more experience or empirical data from actually doing the work. In closing, the only thing worse than running 20wt oil on the track is running it 9mm or what the f@#k ever low on the dip stick while staying with Nissan's 10k OCI.

I agree with your analysis, and I can't lie, it made me a little confused as well. But I chalked it up to a Japanese to English translation.
So, the real question is, what did they intend to say? With that wording, I absolutely can't tell. I think I will just make sure it is precisely at the high line, and hope it's good enough, lol.
My other question is, if they took the time to specify the level for "performance" driving, why didn't they specify a different weight oil as well?
I don't fully trust the manuals, but I also don't want to play engineer and do what I THINK is best. I would really like to KNOW what is best.
You mentioned previously that over filling a little will prevent cavitation, but if it's over filled "too much", the oil can then foam, thus causing reduced lubrication. I feel like we are playing a guessing game at this point.

 

[BigBlue]

Look, the manual is full of weasel words written by lawyers to satisfy CAFE and to show lower operating costs ie a smaller foot print. CAFE only applies to the USA. The rest of the world shows 30wt and up. 10k OCI= lower operating cost. When the OE refers to the life time of your car it just means the end of warranty. There's really no guessing on the oil level. We all know to keep it on the high mark and the hell with the rest of that noise. If you got a stick car put a camera on the oil psi and IP . Some tracks will load the car longer than others. If the light flickers or the PSI really drops hard then call or find a race shop and break out the check book. For the auto cars look for a panel that plugs into the OBD that let's you set alarms for temps/pressure. Regardless of all that, anyone that tracks the shit out of their car knows any track day could be the last for you or your car. I gotta go. the nurse is bringing my meds.

 

[trackratZ]

I agree with your analysis, and I can't lie, it made me a little confused as well. But I chalked it up to a Japanese to English translation.
So, the real question is, what did they intend to say? With that wording, I absolutely can't tell. I think I will just make sure it is precisely at the high line, and hope it's good enough, lol.
My other question is, if they took the time to specify the level for "performance" driving, why didn't they specify a different weight oil as well?
I don't fully trust the manuals, but I also don't want to play engineer and do what I THINK is best. I would really like to KNOW what is best.
You mentioned previously that over filling a little will prevent cavitation, but if it's over filled "too much", the oil can then foam, thus causing reduced lubrication. I feel like we are playing a guessing game at this point.

Chris, if you intend to push your Z hard, instead of relying on the manual which is really for street fuel economy reasons, CAFE etc. consult with reputable high performance or race shops that are familiar with various stages of mods of our VR30DDTT, from stock on, and see what works best under those conditions, oil viscosity, types, etc. Otoh if you're concerned only about street driving, just follow the manual.

 

[FSUZ33]

you think my warranty is void by now LOL

2x4’s are the unsung hero of workshop tools.

 

[BeShizz]

Ceramic coated wheels

 

[up4speed]

In checking the manual again, note that the entire section under Note: is bolded, Nissan won't make a thinner 'minus' in this case. What I'm sure Nissan is saying is, if running under extreme conditions track, drift, drag, etc. where repeated high rpms and high Gs are encountered, ensure that the oil level is at High (Max) or no more than 9mm lower than Max. In other words ALWAYS good routine to check after every session, just set it back to High (Max), should be safe. I can't vouch for the VR30 running over full, like I said before, my Porsche flat-6 does have that recommendation. Of course under those conditions use at least 5W30 not 0W20.

I just found an interesting bullet point in the GT-R owners manual.....

*When the vehicle is delivered, the engine oil is set to 10mm(0.39in) below the H mark for optimal high-performance driving. The engine oil can be filled up to the H mark if performance driving is not engaged.

Based on that, I'm pretty positive at this point, that they intend the Z to be from 9mm below the High line, up to the High line at most.

 

[up4speed]

For the auto cars look for a panel that plugs into the OBD that let's you set alarms for temps/pressure.

Do you happen to know which OBD2 module would be good for our cars to signal an alarm for high temps, or low pressure on the oil? I would really like to purchase one.

 

[BigBlue]

In checking the manual again, note that the entire section under Note: is bolded, Nissan won't make a thinner 'minus' in this case. What I'm sure Nissan is saying is, if running under extreme conditions track, drift, drag, etc. where repeated high rpms and high Gs are encountered, ensure that the oil level is at High (Max) or no more than 9mm lower than Max. In other words ALWAYS good routine to check after every session, just set it back to High (Max), should be safe. I can't vouch for the VR30 running over full, like I said before, my Porsche flat-6 does have that recommendation. Of course under those conditions use at least 5W30 not 0W20.

It's written High to High, not high to low 9MM