VR30DDTT Cooling upgrades

Proto Z

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That's my plan too. I want to get all the rads and intercoolers done in one job. I'm curious to see what whp I can make without a tune but better cooling plus the CAI.

Forgot about the trans cooler lol. That I'd like to upgrade as well.
Some comparisons for you. The explanation of the lines, and associated mods, are in my description.
Worth pointing out that cooling will have little effect on the max hp that you see on a dyno.
What it WILL do is give you consistency between runs. I noticed 5-10hp losses between pulls with the stock cooling.

 
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Thefunk

Thefunk

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2 piece rotors make zero difference to heat dissipation.
How can this be true? Even at high track temps? If there is less surface area of heat absorption then wouldn't that mean less heat soke? Also these rotors are slightly wider than stock. Not saying you're wrong but I did research them which led me to buying them now I feel like I messed up lol. I emailed Z1 to ask for a refund.

Also read that it is cheaper to replace the iron and keep the hub vs replacing one piece rotors, that is definitely not always true. I can get a set of front and rear slotted one piece Stillen rotors for $500 vs $800 for front and rear Z1 iron replacements. So do you think the stock rotors will hold up with good pads for several track days?
 

Proto Z

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How can this be true? Even at high track temps? If there is less surface area of heat absorption then wouldn't that mean less heat soke? Also these rotors are slightly wider than stock. Not saying you're wrong but I did research them which led me to buying them now I feel like I messed up lol. I emailed Z1 to ask for a refund.

Also read that it is cheaper to replace the iron and keep the hub vs replacing one piece rotors, that is definitely not always true. I can get a set of front and rear slotted one piece Stillen rotors for $500 vs $800 for front and rear Z1 iron replacements. So do you think the stock rotors will hold up with good pads for several track days?
You know that '2 piece' doesn't refer to the double up of the rotor disc right?
Because that separation of the disc (with venting in the middle) is exactly how the stock brakes are... Look at my stock brakes in the below pic:



For further reference, have a look at the images below - first is single piece performance brakes, second is 2 piece performance brakes (same company, Akebono)
1720749217700-sa.png
1720749227549-mw.png


I can tell you now, that there would be zero difference in 'cooling'.
The only difference is that the black hub section (in the second image) is made of a different, lighter, metal than the silver disc section. This helps with unsprung mass.

YES, you can only replace the disc if it wears... but this is honestly something that should outlive the car in most cases. AND, good luck finding someone that will sell you only the disc... 9 times out of 10 you buy the disc and hub as a complete package.

Finally, don't get me wrong... if you are planning on doing not only a lot of track work, but a lot of HEAVY track work, then brakes play an important part - as do oil and trans cooling.
But there are a heap of other, far more cost effective, things you could do to improve heat, wear, performance etc etc before you start looking at things like big brake kits.
A single example - the stock suspension in the Z's is complete garbage. Get coilovers, or even just sway bars, and you can take corners much faster - resulting in less need for heavy braking.

That isn't just general advice, it's specific to the Z. They wallow like a boat without suspension upgrades...
 

Evolution

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@Proto Z please don’t take take this wrong but you have a lot more research to do on 2 piece rotors, specifically towards heat dissipation.
 

Darkhorse

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Some comparisons for you. The explanation of the lines, and associated mods, are in my description.
Worth pointing out that cooling will have little effect on the max hp that you see on a dyno.
What it WILL do is give you consistency between runs. I noticed 5-10hp losses between pulls with the stock cooling.

Why did you choose 2 inch downpipes and not something larger? Also how much were these (with cats). Im interested bc downpipes are next on my list and im not in a hurry to pay more import duty right now.
 

Proto Z

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Why did you choose 2 inch downpipes and not something larger? Also how much were these (with cats). Im interested bc downpipes are next on my list and im not in a hurry to pay more import duty right now.
Oh that... lol nah, I'm just an idiot - I got 3" dps. I've been told I did that typo before, just haven't edited it in Insta. Sorry for the confusion.

Cost about AUD$800 for the downpipes and cats (custom made and fitted).
Full exhaust system, including the diverter valve and controller fitted was about AUD$2500.
I've generally found it to be a lot cheaper to get parts custom made than off the shelf (where possible).
 

Darkhorse

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Oh that... lol nah, I'm just an idiot - I got 3" dps. I've been told I did that typo before, just haven't edited it in Insta. Sorry for the confusion.

Cost about AUD$800 for the downpipes and cats (custom made and fitted).
Full exhaust system, including the diverter valve and controller fitted was about AUD$2500.
I've generally found it to be a lot cheaper to get parts custom made than off the shelf (where possible).
The exhaust shops ive asked don't want to touch the downpipes. I'll give Rob a call, cheers.
 

Hernandooo

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When you guys installed your AMS Intercoolers and Heat Exchanger, did you guys use OEM Coolant? or another brand. AND, Was it 50/50 Coolant and Distilled Water?

Thanks
 

VR30Infection

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I am wanting to wait on Air to Air intercoolers. SOHO stated that they did back to back hits consistently with no signs of heat soak whatsoever. I too am interested in a larger more efficient oil cooler.
 

alienpoker

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Yeah but 100hp might be 69-85 whp. He didn’t specify. But I doubt it went 400->500hp.
 
 






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