:crackup: :crackup: :crackup:
Also I think in Japan they auto fold when you turn the car off...
If its true, there must be a way to get the motorised AU mirrors to auto-fold. Need someone to really deep dive through the BCM.
If I'm reading that site right, it's $6k for a complete kit, or $4k for the kit without wheel arches.
I'm not at all interested in the full kit, only the arches...
Oh that... lol nah, I'm just an idiot - I got 3" dps. I've been told I did that typo before, just haven't edited it in Insta. Sorry for the confusion.
Cost about AUD$800 for the downpipes and cats (custom made and fitted).
Full exhaust system, including the diverter valve and controller fitted...
Yes... this OP has two threads where we are discussing brakes. He mentions noticing some brake fade during a track visit, but also says his intentions behind the build are street and occasional track.
If you are building a track car, a full brake upgrade would be one of the first things I'd do...
The cooling advantages it mentions are a result of it being 'floating' or ventilated, which the stock rotors already are. Z1 does use directional ventilation, which would help, but... once again... the effects of this on road or mild street use would be barely noticeable.
Yes I'm saying exactly that.
2 piece might help cool things down a bit - but so what? If you're talking street driving, you are never going to brake hard enough to experience fade, which is really the issue with braking + heat.
How?
Because the hub piece is aluminium? Sure... aluminium dissipates heat faster than steel, but in the conditions you are talking about (mainly street with occasional track work), the effects would be negligible.
Different story if you were purpose building a track car.
/my 2c.
At the end...
You know that '2 piece' doesn't refer to the double up of the rotor disc right?
Because that separation of the disc (with venting in the middle) is exactly how the stock brakes are... Look at my stock brakes in the below pic:
For further reference, have a look at the images below - first is...
Some comparisons for you. The explanation of the lines, and associated mods, are in my description.
Worth pointing out that cooling will have little effect on the max hp that you see on a dyno.
What it WILL do is give you consistency between runs. I noticed 5-10hp losses between pulls with the...
My front bar has come off so many times, it takes my guys about 15 mins to get it off now.
IMHO if you have your heart set on big cooling upgrades, the heat exchanger and intercoolers will offer the biggest bang-for-buck.
Radiator and Oil cooler upgrades will not be noticed unless you are...
Oil cooler and even radiator upgrade should be the last things you do.
To get your car running cooler, do (in order):
1. Heat Exchanger (AMS or Z1)
2. Intercoolers (AMS or Mishimoto)
3. Radiator tank (Nismo one releasing soon)
4. Radiator (whoever, effects will be limited - I'm speaking with PWR...
its very likely NOT the callipers. Unless you've done some significant performance upgrades to the car, you won't get much benefit out of callipers or rotors.
Upgrading the pad will give you much more braking confidence in both everyday street use, as well as on the track.
For track...
Are you able to show us the dyno with the bolt ons? I'm pretty keen to see the curve.
For reference, I ran similar (intake, dp and exhaust), only without the heat exchanger, and dialled in at 429hp with ECUTek at the wheels. Not earth shattering, but the power/torque curve smoothed right out -...