Lowering springs + sway bars - do I actually need adjustable end links?

[TurbodToilet]

I know this topic has been covered a lot, but the existing threads have only added to my confusion. Hoping for some direct guidance from people who've run this exact combo or something similiar.

My plan:

• Eibach lowering springs
• Stillen sway bars (front and rear)
• Z1 spacer kit (stock wheels)

I thought this would be a simple, mild setup. Small drop, noticeable handling improvement, very similar ride quality to OEM. But the more I read, the more conflicting info I find. Some say lowering the car requires adjustable end links, others say the adjustable ones on the market are poor quality and cause clunking, and some say no aftermarket end links are needed at all.

Some questions for everyone:

1. Can I stay on OEM end links with this amount of drop, or do I actually need adjustable ones?
2. If adjustable end links are necessary, which brands have actually held up well (no clunking) for you?
3. Do I even need an aftermarket rear sway bar? Some say the front matters more than the rear.
4. Do I just go with coil-overs? If I do coil-overs do I need to shell out additional thousands of dollars for control arms, camber arms... etc?

 

[KrackaC8]

1. OEM
3. Yes, do the matching set

You picked a very good streetable setup.

 

[KyleWI]

I know this topic has been covered a lot, but the existing threads have only added to my confusion. Hoping for some direct guidance from people who've run this exact combo or something similiar.

My plan:

• Eibach lowering springs
• Stillen sway bars (front and rear)
• Z1 spacer kit (stock wheels)

I thought this would be a simple, mild setup. Small drop, noticeable handling improvement, very similar ride quality to OEM. But the more I read, the more conflicting info I find. Some say lowering the car requires adjustable end links, others say the adjustable ones on the market are poor quality and cause clunking, and some say no aftermarket end links are needed at all.

Some questions for everyone:

1. Can I stay on OEM end links with this amount of drop, or do I actually need adjustable ones?
2. If adjustable end links are necessary, which brands have actually held up well (no clunking) for you?
3. Do I even need an aftermarket rear sway bar? Some say the front matters more than the rear.
4. Do I just go with coil-overs? If I do coil-overs do I need to shell out additional thousands of dollars for control arms, camber arms... etc?

And we'll you're working on #3, may as well upgrade the exhaust. That's what I ended up doing.

 

[TurbodToilet]

And we'll you're working on #3, may as well upgrade the exhaust. That's what I ended up doing.

I am also stuck on which exhaust to buy lol. I like the sound and quality of the AWE exhaust, but I’ve heard that it has fitment issues especially on lowered cars. Something about banging on the crossmember. I imagine all the 3in piped exhausts have the same issue though…

 

[trackratZ]

If you’re only concerned with streetable lowering springs, not much of a drop, OEM is good enough, overall geometry won’t change much. That answers your question.

If more drastic lowering w/ adjustable coilovers, best to ask the bar manuf and reputable alignment shop to make sure you still get full susp range and avoid any binding. Adjustable endlinks might be needed.

I’m still against any spacers, get the right offset of wheels.

 

[KrackaC8]

I am also stuck on which exhaust to buy lol. I like the sound and quality of the AWE exhaust, but I’ve heard that it has fitment issues especially on lowered cars. Something about banging on the crossmember. I imagine all the 3in piped exhausts have the same issue though…

Lowering won't change the exhaust fitment. I know I've been a vocal critic of the AWE fitment but it is still one of the better exhausts available for the Z. Fitment is snug and it needs to be installed absolutely perfect. I do like mine, especially how it looks/performs/sounds.

 

[VR30Infection]

You won’t need adj end links. I’m on coilovers with about 1.25” drop maybe a tad more, with Eibach anti-sway bars front and rear, on stock end links with no range of motion issues and no binding or clunking. In the rear especially, adjustable end links are pointless as there is no room to get the bar back to parallel to the ground (level) due to the rear camber links being in the way. Personally, with your plan, I would throw on the springs, and front bar, get an alignment, and drive the car. If you feel excessive understeer, then I would add the rear bar. The reason is the the rear bar ends end up at a pretty big angle thus making the rear bar stiffer than it’s designed to be. There is a way to fix this and the rest of the geometry issues in the rear however it’s a big jump in work and more parts. As far as exhaust goes, Fast Intentions or Stillen would be good choices as they are 2.5” with a legit x pipe and unless you’re planning on getting larger turbos, true duel 2.5” flows more power than our cars can put out on the stock turbos even with FBO and a tune. 3” has fitment issues and doesn’t make any more power. (This is not my personal opinion, it’s based on HP per exhaust sizing) Z1 makes over 600 wheel through single 3” section and duel 2.5” flows more than single 3”. (Not hating on anyone’s decision to add duel 3” as it doesn’t really hurt anything however 3” is usually deeper/ possibly louder if you are after that)

 

[masti99]

I'm in the same boat. Got the lowering springs and spacers. Going to order the saw bar kit from Stilllen. Let me know how it works for you.

 

[Who.Am.Eye.2716]

In the rear especially, adjustable end links are pointless as there is no room to get the bar back to parallel to the ground (level) due to the rear camber links being in the way.

Do you have pics of this issue? Couldnt you load the suspension with the wheels off and adjust the end link?