Help Me Figure Out Wheel Specs - VOLK CE28N

[VR30Infection]

if 315 is enough for a turbo z with aero then i think its enough for 99% of Z's in existance

So, You didn’t see the “” in my message? That is what we call a “joke”. You said,”I don’t what to hear…”. So I thought I would be a comedian for a moment so we can all have fun. Hope you have a good day buddy.

 

[VR30Infection]

Good to see lots of possibilities, spacers, pulled fenders, etc. For now I'll stick with 285/35 on 10.5 +23 all around square, -3 front camber, need it for the ability to rotate, track tires are expensive!

That’s about where my target is. 19x10.5” and then +22-+25 depending on the rim I end up with. I was working with a Porsche 911 cup driver / race car builder that has built and raced BMW, McLaren, and Porsche, and he told me to go as wide as possible up front and then square if I want to rotate/ have the car feel “loose” and rotate easy or if I want a little more stability then go up 1 width size out back. He stated that in a front engine, rear drive chassis, this is proven over and over. If you want looks or drag race then it’s a different story.

 

[trackratZ]

That’s about where my target is. 19x10.5” and then +22-+25 depending on the rim I end up with. I was working with a Porsche 911 cup driver / race car builder that has built and raced BMW, McLaren, and Porsche, and he told me to go as wide as possible up front and then square if I want to rotate/ have the car feel “loose” and rotate easy or if I want a little more stability then go up 1 width size out back. He stated that in a front engine, rear drive chassis, this is proven over and over. If you want looks or drag race then it’s a different story.

Yep, and a few track guys I know use that range of offsets on 10.5, fits fine no spacers needed with camber of course. Actually more tire options with 18" same specs plus slightly lighter weights if you want to go that route. Ability to rotate the set, which is key, and adjust your handling by sways, tire pressures, coilover height, damping.

 

[OptionZero]

Yep, and a few track guys I know use that range of offsets on 10.5, fits fine no spacers needed with camber of course. Actually more tire options with 18" same specs plus slightly lighter weights if you want to go that route. Ability to rotate the set, which is key, and adjust your handling by sways, tire pressures, coilover height, damping.

been a little bit since i dug through the pricing but there also seemed to be a noticeable jump in tire prices going from 18 to 19

its just more economical to run 18s at the track, in addition to having alot of selection available

 

[VR30Infection]

Man, I don’t see all the extra options in 18” tires. Especially in the 200 tw segment. I see way more options in 19” at both Tire Rack and Discount Tire Direct/ Americas Tire. Also, a lot of them end up being around an inch shorter than a 285/35-19. I don’t want to effect gear ratio, and Speedo readings to that level. Any thoughts or suggestions?

On another note, I also don’t want to have to run -3* camber on the street. I think -2.5 up front and -2.0 out back would be about my limit for an aggressive street/ canyon carver/ light track use car. On the rear there is a give and take between cornering grip and straight line acceleration grip to think about. (Just my thoughts from my experiences)

 

[OptionZero]

275/40/18 is 26.7 inches which is close to stock

I paid $164/ea from Tire Rack.

Unfortunately this tire was discontinued, and I don't know if there's a comparable value anymore in the 200TW category.

Tire pricing can get wierd

for example, the Yokohama A052 is regarded as a fast wearing but VERY grippy "super 200" tire, basically a time attack style use tire

275/40/18 is $392
275/35/19 is $383
but
295/35/19 is $476 (basically a $90 jump for going a bit wider)

I'm sure there's some market forces at play

 

[Mrdeep]

haven't done any measurements but sure seems like they're the same based on fitments floating out there. any minor differences can be accounted for in alignment

also, yes, you can fit 20x12 in the rear
20x12, +20
315/25/20
-2 camber

This is where my fitment actually could have been better:
the 20x11, +15 fronts are MUCH more aggressive than the 20x12, +20 rears.
Look at the last pic, you can see a chasm of clearance
I could have done a 325/25/20, EASILY. That was only -2 camber!

Had I gotten 20x10.5 +22 fronts it would have "matched" the same level of poke

(To match the 20x11 +15 fronts i would need to be 5 to 10mm more aggressive in rear)

i don't wanna hear anything about lack of tire bc 315 rears are plenty

Do you have a lot of rubbing with that setup? it looks super tight

 

[OptionZero]

Do you have a lot of rubbing with that setup? it looks super tight

No rubbing in rear. As I said, there is a chasm, you can fit two fingers.
Had some rubbing on the front bumper tab in front
Trimmed/relocated the tab
No more rubbing

Running an even more aggressive set up now
19x10, -3
245/40/19

19x11, -6
275/35/19

Front fender is pulled

Camber makes a massive difference

 

[Mrdeep]

No rubbing in rear. As I said, there is a chasm, you can fit two fingers.
Had some rubbing on the front bumper tab in front
Trimmed/relocated the tab
No more rubbing

Running an even more aggressive set up now
19x10, -3
245/40/19

19x11, -6
275/35/19

Front fender is pulled

Camber makes a massive difference

Good to know. I got upgraded upper control arms already, so camber shouldn't be an issue.

maybe I should look to be more aggressive

 

[OptionZero]

Good to know. I got upgraded upper control arms already, so camber shouldn't be an issue.

maybe I should look to be more aggressive

Go more aggressive.
IMO the sweet spot is 19 or 20x11, +0
285 tire

unfortunately this is usually a spec that only is available in a 3 piece wheel.