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Could you take some pictures of the pipe routing to the intercooler around the sides of the heat exchangers. I just recently did brake ducting and am worried about this mod interfering with the brake ducting.

Looks like there is already a thread on this XD https://www.nissanzclub.com/forum/threads/nissan-z-convertible-imagined-renderings.1210/preview

https://www.z1motorsports.com/nismo/nismo/nismo-2023-nissan-cold-air-intake-p-41460.html I was offered a used version of this (I don't know the price yet), but I for sure do not want it if it requires tuning the car. I like what Nissan has done with the power plant, so if there isn't any other...

Yes, but I'd rather have the thicker fluid as I assume the 90 weight spec is designed for city driving, not track driving. Additionally, it's a 75 weight cold, similar to Nissan's spec. 350F is not the flash point for oil, so no worries yet. If necessary, I could look into this...

I track mine and use a 75w140 by redline. I’ve done oil analysis and it’s fine. The only thing I’m really losing is gas mileage but worth the extra weight when the diff regularly hits 350f out there on track.

So I just did the swap. Not too hard, but I might be retarded. I was roughing up the exhaust a little too much trying to get it off and fucked the threads on one of the studs. Had to beat it off and replace it with one of the studs that are on the AT exhaust. I got the full AT exhaust setup...

Nissan should "open source" the service manual tbh.

Kind of a nerdy question, but anyone know the torque ratings for the bolts that attach the flanges between the muffler and the midpipe, and the midpipe to the Y pipe? Of course if no one knows, then I'll just eye ball it as it's prolly not serious as long as there isn't a leak. As a side...

Yea my default impression of Z1 motorsports is to avoid their inhouse products unless it's the only ones available. I do buy stuff off their site, but it's usually the stuff other companies have engineered like SPL. I did get their inhouse dust shield with 2.5" NACA ducting but, cmon. How can...

iirc it's due to testing requirements for sound levels. In California, manual has to pass the 92 db limit in 2nd or 3rd gear WOT the entire time. Autos only have to pass the 92 db limit with as much throttle needed without the car shifting down a gear for more power at some speed, so you are...

Yeah I'm thinking this is the way, and if I really want to level up the noise, I can do a poor man's cat delete for the lower downpipes. Pretty sure the O2 sensor is above the cat, so it isn't monitoring the performance of the second cat. Don't need to worry about hacking the secondary O2...

One thing that would be nice is a louder exhaust. As y'all already know, the MT variant has a muffler the size of Texas because why not and this causes the car to be quite silent. I don't want to spend a lot on something purely performative, so something cheap like a muffler delete is an option...

I'm tracking the car, but I'd rather maximize my money than maximize the performance of the car. Admittedly, I'm not good enough a driver to make up time from the small weight savings a 2 piece would provide.

This was at COTA and I was talking to a porsche 992 owner. I assumed he was just having to pay the porsche tax. His 992 doesn't have carbon ceramic brakes on his either. I just wanted to make sure there wasn't any validity in his claim for my car and that seems to be true according to this...

Yeah so for cheapness, the best way to go is whatever rotor rock auto has. I just wanted to confirm this. thanks.

A lot of people at the track say that the 2 piece rotors are cheaper since you only need to replace the disc and not the hat, but I find that all of the single piece rotor options from RockAuto to be cheaper then the replacement discs for the 2 piece rotors. The only upside would be a lighter...

Everything is stock other than tires and brakes. Tires are just some "super 200s" (ECF fronts and Dunlop Direzza ZIII rears). I have 2.5" ducting. I'm not able to put any bigger tbh. I might just say fuck the boots and rebuild the calipers without them next time. Just more maintenance...

So update. I did an HPDE with these ducts and the dust boots still cook to shit. Seems like I need a different kind of rubber at this point. Brake ducting is still useful to keep temps down and help longevity of all the parts down there, so I'm not peeved this didn't work. Just that I need a...

My case was definitely a software bug or hardware issue. I say that because my car was cold, and I didn't have boost until I restarted it. Yours might be something different...

New entry here for y'all. If you want to do brake ducting, then here is a showcase to prove it is possible. https://www.nissanzclub.com/forum/threads/dust-boots-burning-up-constantly.8392/post-168470 Good luck to any other nerd who wants to put brake ducting on your whip.