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So due to the saddle bag design of the gas tank, hard right-handers will move all the fuel from the right saddlebag to the left saddle bag. I have experienced fuel starve at half a tank and this is no good. Has anyone attempted to fix this issue? How hard is it to do? I'd imagine the fuel tank...

Each weekend is 2 days, about 4-5 30 minute sessions, so a total of 4-5 hours of time on track per weekend. I changed the diff/MT at the same time, around 7000 miles of wear. Engine probably had 5000 miles of wear on the last oil change I did, so it was about due anyways (Unfortunately only had...

FWIW, I changed the Engine oil 4 times, diff 3 times, manual trans 3 times. Blackstone keeps telling me to go further (I'm basing it off the number of track weekends) for every single one of the above. Engine oil will now target 4 weekends, diff 8 weekends, and trans 8 weekends. I'll just keep...

Damn thing was still breaking in lol. I changed it at 1500 miles after all the "break in" was done. According to blackstone, I still had break in particulates until my 10k oil change.

Y'all have light feet. I get 12mpg on the Highway. I can't help it :cry:

Have faith? Last time their stock was as low as it currently is was October 1998. Your expectation is that they'll be fine? Then it's at an all time low! Time to buy.

Looking to replace it at some point with a quick bleeder, but I cannot find the size of this damn screw. If I had the size, I could order the part. Thanks!

There is a "performance" tab and I've just selected the ones that aren't drilled. Only one way to figure out if the rotors are worth a damn is to just try em.

Much cheaper just to rock auto that.

no their one piece rotors.

Yeah. I've stopped giving a fuck about the looks of the car due to this. If you ever see a silver Z with it's rear bumper hanging off, that'll be me.

I've been rear ended 5 times in the 2 years of ownership, so I'd say that it's likely to get into accidents.

Yeah. A lot of people just run blanks or slotted at all the HPDEs I go to. Quite a few run the cheapest shit they can find and say they have been happy with that. If you are tracking, the rotors, pads, fluid, tries, etc... are consumables that disappear very very fast. I've ran through 250$ pads...

That's not a bad Idea. I might try a 110 for the diff the next time I do a change. I will say, DO NOT RUN STOCK DIFF FLUIDS FOR LONG. That shit came out BLACK at 5k miles. I bet the breakin additives they have are just brutal on the diff gears.

Just FYI, modern common knowledge for track driving is to not run drilled rotors due to the tendency of them cracking at the holes like so: It's best just to get vented rotors, slotted if you so desire.

I wonder if you can ask z1 to add in this spacer from the get go. If it’s reduces nvh by 90% and retains 90% stiffness then it should be an option directly from them. Seems like an overall good idea.

On brake? No. I have a bad habit of not having a perfectly straight wheel on brake, but that’s a skill issue, not a mechanical issue.

I’ve already chewed through the stock pads at 14k miles. I’ve got on the “premium” grade stuff off rock auto or 30$ per axle. I can come to a complete stop at 156mph just fine. Unless you are truly track driving or doing a hardish canyon run, just put the cheapest crap on there. if you are...

Yea I got a dremel and cut out part of my wheel well to fit my NACA ducting. I was thinking something similar to get it around the front frame.

The pipe has to touch the wheel well right?