Oil Solenoid, and P06DA. Anyone have a pic?

[FSUZ33]

Do you have to remove all that crap (AT oil cooler?) just to unplug the connector?

 

[Mugzilla]

Do you have to remove all that crap (AT oil cooler?) just to unplug the connector?

The videos I have seen for the 9AT cars show it being removed. It would be RIGHT in the way.

Even on my 6MT, I had to contort my hand to get the tab flipped up.

I plugged in the 25 ohm, 2 watt resistor today. Taped over it, and zip tied it to the nearby wire. Cleared the code.

No codes or smoke on the way home. And, I didn't need to use a coin!

Do not do the resistor idea. Pics later.

 

[FSUZ33]

The videos I have seen for the 9AT cars show it being removed. It would be RIGHT in the way.

Even on my 6MT, I had to contort my hand to get the tab flipped up.

I plugged in the 25 ohm, 2 watt resistor today. Taped over it, and zip tied it to the nearby wire. Cleared the code.

No codes or smoke on the way home. And, I didn't need to use a coin!

lol!…a fix without a coin?!? Maybe you didn’t NEED to use a coin, but SURELY you could have found a way to work a nickel or two in there somewhere!

Apart from the mod/fix completely lacking the use of loose change, Great Info!

 

[sarbjeetsbains]

Hi Everyone,

Newbie to the VR30 - I have read about the solenoid failing and causing burnout (engine burnout) on the old Infinities.

Could someone please let me know if this is still an issue on the 2024 Z engines? I have a 100k mile warranty on the powertrain on this baby from Nissan. Plus another additional warranty for rest of the stuff until 100k/ 2032.

I am wondering if I should care, or just enjoy flooring? I do suffer from Heat Soak (out of houston) and i definetly hate the 0W-20 recommendation. I would do 0W-40 (previous VW/Audi fan here).

But I would beg the question on that end, does a quart of Lucas fix that problem post Dealership oil change or does the solenoid really need to go go ?

 

[KrackaC8]

Houston here too! Change your oil regularly to keep the engine clean and you'll have nothing to worry about. RaceBox is an excellent local resource.

For the heatsoak, you absolutely need at least an upgraded aftermarket heat exchanger in this environment.

 

[FSUZ33]

Not sure how prevalent it is on later VR30s, but the reason it fails is contaminates jamming the solenoid. The best thing you can do is change your oil regularly.

 

[sarbjeetsbains]

Not sure how prevalent it is on later VR30s, but the reason it fails is contaminates jamming the solenoid. The best thing you can do is change your oil regularly.

Thank you Sir, I am sticking to a 5k to 6k mile interval (as required for the warranty)

I daily this baby, monitor the oil temps, and it never goes above 195F (90 C)

Regards,
Sabbi

 

[FSUZ33]

Great minds think alike!
But to be honest, the answer to a crap-ton of engine-related questions is “change your oil regularly.”

 

[KrackaC8]

Thank you Sir, I am sticking to a 5k to 6k mile interval (as required for the warranty)

I daily this baby, monitor the oil temps, and it never goes above 195F (90 C)

Regards,
Sabbi

4-5k is ideal for a turbocharged engine in my opinion, but plenty of debate surrounding the matter.

Oil temps aren't as important as people claim; modern synthetic oil additive packs don't actually even reach their full benefit until 220-230F and will protect well past 250F.

 

[haohmaru]

The videos I have seen for the 9AT cars show it being removed. It would be RIGHT in the way.

Even on my 6MT, I had to contort my hand to get the tab flipped up.

I plugged in the 25 ohm, 2 watt resistor today. Taped over it, and zip tied it to the nearby wire. Cleared the code.

No codes or smoke on the way home. And, I didn't need to use a coin!

Wouldnt 2 watts be a little undersized?

 

[Mugzilla]

Wouldnt 2 watts be a little undersized?

No smoke yet.

The wires are teeny tiny. They wouldn't carry much mor without getting really soft while current was flowing.

Do NOT do the resistor idea. I'll post pics later.

How I feel:

 

[rz34kevvv]

No smoke yet.

The wires are teeny tiny. They wouldn't carry much mor without getting really soft while current was flowing.

How are they holding up? I wanted to go your route and put a resistor on the harness side and just leave the original solenoid inserted but just unplugged.

 

[Bumflik]

How are they holding up? I wanted to go your route and put a resistor on the harness side and just leave the original solenoid inserted but just unplugged.

Since I had my engine dropped for upgraded Turbos and Twin disc Clutch I unplugged this solenoid and now have 28psi at idle . A sigh of relief. And when WOT 57psi! Bearings are happy being lubricated now when at idle yess. Before the unplugging it was 17psi. Not good.

 

[haohmaru]

Since I had my engine dropped for upgraded Turbos and Twin disc Clutch I unplugged this solenoid and now have 28psi at idle . A sigh of relief. And when WOT 57psi! Bearings are happy being lubricated now when at idle yess. Before the unplugging it was 17psi. Not good.

Same here with the oil pressure readings after delete.

 

[Mugzilla]

So, I've edited my posts above. I tried to shove a resistor in the plug, and leave the solenoid in the block. Solenoid did fine. Resistor looks like the arc reactor out of Tony Stark's chest from Iron Man 2.

Pics later.

If anyone has been using a female plug to pretend to be a solenoid, please look at it. There is a LOT more current flowing (For a longer period of time) there than I anticipated.