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Sway Bars: What did you choose & why?

VR30Infection

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Love your other car. Please tell me it is Plum Crazy.
Sadly no. It was a nice silver blue from the factory when my Grandfather had it. Then my dad ruined it with bright yellow šŸ¤¦šŸ»ā€ā™‚ļø I haven’t decided what color it will end up.
 

kappa_md

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have a great day everyone and let’s stick to the topic.
I’m wondering why I don’t hear people say Eibach on this thread.
I’m using Eibach sway bars front and rear in my Z. I went with Eibach since I’ve used them in different cars (86, FK8 etc) Fitment and quality are top tier and haven’t really had any issues with them so far šŸ‘šŸ» Works well in my experience šŸ™‚
 

VR30Infection

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kinda seems like everything i've said is going right over your head, so...

i am very happy that not "leaning" working out for you so well

you keep puttering on man
I am actually not sure you have a good understanding of how they work and maybe stuff is going over your head?!

On a dedicated track car sometimes anti-sway bars aren't needed because you can run crazy stiff spring rates to increase roll stiffness while keeping the movement of the suspension independent. This kind of suspension frequency would be way too stiff for a street car. Stiffer anti-sway bars can increase the roll stiffness of the chassis without making it unbarible on the street. So, while the bars cannot mitigate dive and squat under hard braking or acceleration, they can make the car corner flatter and more balanced while keeping the car soft over bumps.

I'm running custom sprung and valved coilovers on my Z. I'm sitting at 2.2 Hz up front and 2.4 Hz in the rear which is pretty stiff. (Many would say to stiff for the street) Currently I still have the factory bars. The car is so much more planted its crazy. Nose dive feels gone and the uneasy feeling in an aggressive corner over uneven road (small bumps and whatnot) is gone. However I will still be adding anti-sway bars to the equation to flatten it out even more and add a touch of extra tuning control that will be needed once I go with a 10.5" wide rim square setup. The car was made to under steer from the factory and my goal is as much grip as possible with a street tire, with the chassis being as ballanced and controlable at the limit as possible. I want the car to feel confidence inspiring. Currently on stock tires which are not great by any means, and Ive had the G meter read 1.2 g. On the street. While I understand that not many would do this, I have. I don't think people are getting triggered by your opinion. I just think they disagree with you and are enjoying the noticible difference they are experiancing with their upgrades... Stiffer bars will be more noticible with factory sprig rates than they will be for me but I still think they can bring something to the table..

Now the question is.... Which ones???

The quest continues
IMG_2520.webp
 

OptionZero

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I am actually not sure you have a good understanding of how they work and maybe stuff is going over your head?!

On a dedicated track car sometimes anti-sway bars aren't needed because you can run crazy stiff spring rates to increase roll stiffness while keeping the movement of the suspension independent. This kind of suspension frequency would be way too stiff for a street car. Stiffer anti-sway bars can increase the roll stiffness of the chassis without making it unbarible on the street. So, while the bars cannot mitigate dive and squat under hard braking or acceleration, they can make the car corner flatter and more balanced while keeping the car soft over bumps.

I'm running custom sprung and valved coilovers on my Z. I'm sitting at 2.2 Hz up front and 2.4 Hz in the rear which is pretty stiff. (Many would say to stiff for the street) Currently I still have the factory bars. The car is so much more planted its crazy. Nose dive feels gone and the uneasy feeling in an aggressive corner over uneven road (small bumps and whatnot) is gone. However I will still be adding anti-sway bars to the equation to flatten it out even more and add a touch of extra tuning control that will be needed once I go with a 10.5" wide rim square setup. The car was made to under steer from the factory and my goal is as much grip as possible with a street tire, with the chassis being as ballanced and controlable at the limit as possible. I want the car to feel confidence inspiring. Currently on stock tires which are not great by any means, and Ive had the G meter read 1.2 g. On the street. While I understand that not many would do this, I have. I don't think people are getting triggered by your opinion. I just think they disagree with you and are enjoying the noticible difference they are experiancing with their upgrades... Stiffer bars will be more noticible with factory sprig rates than they will be for me but I still think they can bring something to the table..

Now the question is.... Which ones???

The quest continues
IMG_2520.webp

Please stop and think about what you’re saying

you’re bringing up custom spring rates and g readings on a tracm

the people replying are telling me about ā€œleanā€ on a highway on ramp

We are having two conversations
Half of the people are basically ricers in denial justifying stuff on their mod list when it is doing nothing on a street environment

the original post i responded to asked ā€œare sway bars worth itā€

and I answered no for a street car because…i dont place any value on making and old mans feeling when he guns it on a onramp
 
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VR30Infection

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I'm noticing that most of the Bar options out there add signifigantly more stiffness over stock to the rear than the front. More than likely to get rid of the cars natural desire to understeer with the skinnies up front. Due to the fact that I chose flat ride frequencies with the rear being about 10% stiffer than the front, and that I will be going with a 285 square setup, I am wanting to have the increase in stiffness be higher in the front. I might even end up with an aftermarket front bar and stock rear bar to accomplish this but then I will be loosing some of the adjustability I'm looking for.
 

VR30Infection

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none of which answers the question o originally posed

Are they worth it for a random street car?

and my answer remains

no
If the question is for a random street car where the driver never pushes the car? Then yes, I would have to agree with you. But if any spirited mountian or canyon carving is in the cars future, then they are absolutely worth it considering that as far as upgrades to suspension goes they arent very expensive..
 

OptionZero

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If the question is for a random street car where the driver never pushes the car? Then yes, I would have to agree with you. But if any spirited mountian or canyon carving is in the cars future, then they are absolutely worth it considering that as far as upgrades to suspension goes they arent very expensive..
I dont know what the forum rules are (if there even are any)
But i will not be endorsing any form of street racing or reckless driving, so if that is where people want to justify what they buy , we have nothing left to say
 

Katum68

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I dont know what the forum rules are (if there even are any)
But i will not be endorsing any form of street racing or reckless driving, so if that is where people want to justify what they buy , we have nothing left to say
"i will not be endorsing any form of street racing or reckless driving". Sorry, but that is what we do regardless of age.
 

VR30Infection

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I dont know what the forum rules are (if there even are any)
But i will not be endorsing any form of street racing or reckless driving, so if that is where people want to justify what they buy , we have nothing left to say
lol. I’m not street racing bud. Most street racing are drag races and won’t benefit from a roll stiffness increase at all. In fact if you’re serious about drag racing then you take the front bar off. And though I am guilty of that in my younger years, I’ve grown out of it. But you can stay on your high horse if you want Zero. I’m just trying to be a part of the Z community here. Was attempting to find some common ground and maybe help you see a different perspective. If you want to take your ball and go home though, that’s totally fine. Hope you have a good night.
 

OptionZero

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lol. I’m not street racing bud. Most street racing are drag races and won’t benefit from a roll stiffness increase at all. In fact if you’re serious about drag racing then you take the front bar off. And though I am guilty of that in my younger years, I’ve grown out of it. But you can stay on your high horse if you want Zero. I’m just trying to be a part of the Z community here. Was attempting to find some common ground and maybe help you see a different perspective. If you want to take your ball and go home though, that’s totally fine. Hope you have a good night.
read the post above yours, thats what im talking about, not you
 

thesilverbullet

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This has turned into a funny thread. šŸ˜‚.
ā€œI got this and I love itā€
ā€œYou’re wrongā€
ā€œI know you are but what am I?ā€
ā€œSticks and stones may break my bones but forum opinions will never hurt meā€

lol.

have a great day everyone and let’s stick to the topic.
I’m wondering why I don’t hear people say Eibach on this thread.
I’m going with eibach w/ stock suspension - I’m just waiting on the spr!ng sale.

My goal is to simply to eliminate the ā€œriced out civic on lowering springs and blown out shocksā€ bouncy feel and set the balance to neutral - oversteer. i prefer backing into the ditch vs driving head-on into It.

Here are pics of my daily exit ramp and track. the track just happened to be maintained by DOT.

fyi - a lot of bad assumptions. reminds of a co-workerā€˜s comments one morning. Told me i should leave for work a little earlier so I didn’t have to rush. my response was - time had nothing to do with it, it would be the same if i arrived an hour early…

speaking of time goals- i do need to be able to pull on a stock IS500. but I’m not expecting the sway bars to solve that issue..

IMG_2242.webp


IMG_2243.webp
 
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thesilverbullet

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I’m using Eibach sway bars front and rear in my Z. I went with Eibach since I’ve used them in different cars (86, FK8 etc) Fitment and quality are top tier and haven’t really had any issues with them so far šŸ‘šŸ» Works well in my experience šŸ™‚
Awesome. I have a few questions…

What your settings? any other suspension mods? any idea if you are tight or loose on corner entry?
 

VR30Infection

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I’m going with eibach w/ stock suspension - I’m just waiting on the spr!ng sale.

My goal is to simply to eliminate the ā€œriced out civic on lowering springs and blown out shocksā€ bouncy feel and set the balance to neutral - oversteer. i prefer backing into the ditch vs driving head-on into It.

Here are pics of my daily exit ramp and track. the track just happened to be maintained by DOT.

fyi - a lot of bad assumptions. reminds of a co-workerā€˜s comments one morning. Told me i should leave for work a little earlier so I didn’t have to rush. my response was - time had nothing to do with it, it would be the same if i arrived an hour early…

speaking of time goals- i do need to be able to pull on a stock IS500. but I’m not expecting the sway bars to solve that issue..

IMG_2242.webp


IMG_2243.webp
Nice. I hope you’re able to accomplish your goal. For my taste the factory spring rate and dampers were just not enough. Those look like fun!
 

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the original post i responded to asked ā€œare sway bars worth itā€

and I answered no for a street car because…i dont place any value on making and old mans feeling when he guns it on a onramp
I disagree, specifically about RZ34's behavior, it is much too soft from the factory (non-Nismo), definitely noticeable compared to other factory 'sport suspensions' driven before, very floaty. Sway bars even with OEM springs will and are very noticeable, tightens up the suspension even on normal driving, and obvious on any winding roads. They are nice 'step one' upgrades to make our Zs more like sports than GT cars. Well worth it IMO.
 
 






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