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kevinbonds

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The Stillen ones interest me. However, when I look at pictures of them the tips are out a lot. I never had an aftermarket exhaust put on before. I wonder how much adjustment in and out can be done? Does not have to be perfectly flush. Any thoughts?
I have seen a few, and most look flush to the bumper to me.
 

VR30Infection

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Personally, I wouldn’t worry about that. When I choose my exhaust, if it’s not louder than the fake exhaust then I will be disappointed. I want my exhaust to have some personality and some bite to it, maybe some gurgle and rasp, but ABSOLUTELY no drone while cruising.
If you are worried about too much noise and just want some more flow and personality, then I would go Fast Intentions with the resinated pipes. Should stay decently tame.
 
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weissk93

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One last question. Almost got everything narrowed down!

Copying from other thread:

I am thinking of getting a 2.5 inch diameter, resonated third party exhaust with stock down pipes.

I would rather not go to dealer or cut wires. Thus leaving ANC/ASE on.

Are turning these settings off necessary? I do not mind the pumped in noise. However, not sure how new exhaust will make things which makes me nervous.
 

kevinbonds

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One last question. Almost got everything narrowed down!

Copying from other thread:

I am thinking of getting a 2.5 inch diameter, resonated third party exhaust with stock down pipes.

I would rather not go to dealer or cut wires. Thus leaving ANC/ASE on.

Are turning these settings off necessary? I do not mind the pumped in noise. However, not sure how new exhaust will make things which makes me nervous.
You don't need to go to the dealer to do anything, just have the new exhaust installed and enjoy it.
 
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weissk93

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For all those wondering, I decided on the following. Items are ordered by the shop and I will update once installed.

1. Remark Exhaust (Resonated, Axleback, Midpipe, Y-Pipe)
2. Stillen Sway Bars
3. Z1 Black Aluminum Undershroud

Appreciate all the input from everyone over the last few weeks!
 

kevinbonds

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For all those wondering, I decided on the following. Items are ordered by the shop and I will update once installed.

1. Remark Exhaust (Resonated, Axleback, Midpipe, Y-Pipe)
2. Stillen Sway Bars
3. Z1 Black Aluminum Undershroud

Appreciate all the input from everyone over the last few weeks!
Great list, the only thing I would suggest, if it's not too late, is to look at the concept Z performance under shroud. I was considering Z1, then ended up with the CZP. It's all one piece and has a small panel you can easily remove for oil service, it also is all one piece and uses all the same factory bolt locations.
 
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weissk93

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Great list, the only thing I would suggest, if it's not too late, is to look at the concept Z performance under shroud. I was considering Z1, then ended up with the CZP. It's all one piece and has a small panel you can easily remove for oil service, it also is all one piece and uses all the same factory bolt locations.
It is too late. The Z1 under shroud does have a panel that is removable. Although it looks larger than the panel for the one you recommended. Not a huge deal.
 

Thefunk

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I still think even if you don't track the car, you should upgrade the brake system:
1pc or 2pc rotors slotted (don't get drilled)
Steel braided lines
Master cylinder brace
RBF600 DOT4 fluid (or equivalent/better).

The car is powerful and fast. Priority is stopping the car without slop from the pedal to the calipers.

These are completely optional and may add nvh but remove a lot of slop from the drivetrain
Trans and rear diff braces
 
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weissk93

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I still think even if you don't track the car, you should upgrade the brake system:
1pc or 2pc rotors slotted (don't get drilled)
Steel braided lines
Master cylinder brace
RBF600 DOT4 fluid (or equivalent/better).

The car is powerful and fast. Priority is stopping the car without slop from the pedal to the calipers.

These are completely optional and may add nvh but remove a lot of slop from the drivetrain
Trans and rear diff braces
I did do a master cylinder brace. It does firm it up a little bit. Pain in the butt to install with my friend. Luckily, since I have automatic, there was a little more room to maneuver.
 

Thefunk

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I did do a master cylinder brace. It does firm it up a little bit. Pain in the butt to install with my friend. Luckily, since I have automatic, there was a little more room to maneuver.
I didn't have any help and it was very difficult getting those bolts threaded in while trying to keep the brace centered. Dropped one of the bolts and it landed deep into that pocket under the booster. Had a long flexible piece of scrap metal and taped a magnet to it to fish it out.

Once installed though the brake feel is complete with the steel lines.
 
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weissk93

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I got my new exhaust on today. Got the Remark Axleback, Mid Pipe (Resonated), Y Pipe.

https://www.remark-usa.com/products...M3aeES1kAGxSN3hMOcrEyWHIXjgjjseIENk64bTf2NO9r

Unfortunately, only the rear sway bar was delivered. I did not want that installed without the front one as it could cause oversteer problems. They were nice enough to install the exhaust and metal under-shroud now even though they will have to remove them again to install the sway bars.

Initial thoughts, they sound and look great. There is a deeper growl I can hear inside the cabin without it being overwhelming. Definitely how it should have been factory. I attached some images for reference.

The only thing I question is the ability for the tips to be center in the exhaust cut out. It seems like all of them, including OEM, are slightly off centered. Do you think there is any left/right tolerance?

They will have to remove tips at next appointment anyways so I will have them look at it. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Before 1.jpg


Before 2.jpeg


Comparison.jpg


No Exhaust.jpeg


After 1.jpeg


After 2.jpeg
 

VR30Infection

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I would jack it up and throw a ratchet strap around the two pipes and ratchet them tight. Looks like they both error to the outside.
 
 






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