Want a 400Z to modify, should I start with NISMO?

[d4rkg04t]

Durability is going to be heavily tune dependent when you get much above 500 wheel HP

As with any twin turbo car, keeping it cool is important too. Make sure your intercooler and cooling system upgrades are sufficient for the build and driving style.

Yep, yep. Well aware of how to make power and keep it safe, at least in the world of modern muscle. Totally unsure what the go-to steps are for doing it with a Z. Tunes I usually run fat, never on the ragged edge.

 

[d4rkg04t]

If you don't care about the status and exclusivity of the Nismo trim, you can build a Sport that significantly outperforms the Nismo for substantially less money. However, this is not a popular opinion around here, so I'm sure others will chime in.

I don't care about exclusivity at all. First thing I did with my Dark Horse was pull the powertrain and crack the front of the engine open to shore up the known weaknesses.

That said, if it saves money to start with the Performance trim then I'm down for that. Otherwise, I'm okay to start off with the Nismo. Just trying not to waste money unnecessarily if that makes sense.

 

[d4rkg04t]

I suspect the question is, how much labor are you willing to put in? I'm sort of over the add this, change that to get to what I'm looking for, and the 27' + NISMO solves many of this gripes with the Z.

A fair and understandable viewpoint. I'm not worried about labor, as witnessed by my current ride. Though, strangely, the mod scene for the new Z seems to be priced very close to the Dark Horse believe it or not.

 

[Tranzor Z]

I don't care about exclusivity at all. First thing I did with my Dark Horse was pull the powertrain and crack the front of the engine open to shore up the known weaknesses.

That said, if it saves money to start with the Performance trim then I'm down for that. Otherwise, I'm okay to start off with the Nismo. Just trying not to waste money unnecessarily if that makes sense.

You have a dark horse? Get a Z and you'll be trading that pile of shit. That's what I did.

 

[d4rkg04t]

VR30DDTT oem stock motor cams rods pistons etc internals is proven to handle reliably up to 850HP/600FTlbs . Do you want a vip show car? TRACK/autocross, Dragstrip or roll racer or just a spirited daily?

Hmmm... I guess what I'm looking for out of this is similar to what I have now. A spirited toy (I have other cars so it won't be a daily) that can handle great and is good for average roll racing situations. I have ~1000bhp at the moment, so it'd be a welcome reduction in concerns to have a Z that's putting out less than that so I can do more dumb stuff more often without hitting flippin' warp 10 in town.


Yes, I'm looking specifically for what the top end and bottom end of the engine can withstand repeatedly over time. It's my understanding that torque is the limiting factor with the engine and transmission? Is that right? I'll pull the powertrain if I need to, but I'd rather stay in it's good graces to start with. Otherwise I'll end up with another goofy overpowered car.

I hope that makes sense. I just want to make as much power as I can without going overboard, but also to be certain that beating on it won't end its life 6 months down the road.

 

[d4rkg04t]

if you're unbolting everything to bolt upgrades on

you're just paying for the badge and bodykit

and even the nismo will need coilovers, suspension arms, and likely even more brake upgrades

if you're leaving thing alone, sure, Nismo

I don't know how to leave things be.

 

[KrackaC8]

If you're going to be modifying it, get a Performance trim, it's the sweet spot to begin a street build. This is what I did...and I have a serious addiction/problem with modifying vehicles for going on 3 decades now... Before that it was Jet Skis, BMX bikes, and Ninjas... The Nismo trim is a sizable cost premium for not a lot of actual performance gain (and some creature comfort loss).

Honestly, check my sig and copy my mod list. This is the sweet spot for a street car on 93 pump. Next up in addition would be FlexFuel and slightly larger stockframe turbos.

The Z1 chassis braces along with Stillen swaybars go a long ways in stiffening the chassis and settling down the high-speed behavior. Add Eibach ProKit lowering springs if you want to reduce the wheel gap; a quality alignment is key regardless.

Fuel quality/brand makes a difference. Add a bottle of Redline WaterWetter to both coolant reservoirs.

 

[ZULU-1]

OK…I’ll chime-in.....but, read at your own risk!

Not knowing your level of expertice/experience with build projects, I preface the following by apologizing for anything that maybe perceived to be condescending/underneath your understanding in this subject area. Not my intention:

Then perhaps, would be best to visualize the build objective on paper by creating a project spreadsheet (MS Excel). Create a columm for the specific desired power/performance level (determine if you aim mainly for straight-line vs track performance. I presume you are not considering street/daily-driving). Another columm, identifying the items needed to achieve the desired power/performance level. Then the associated cost per item needed to attain the desired build (consider adding a separate column to account for the cost of labor on fixing, changing/upgrading the specific item if it fails post installation. Highlight/note If the item replacing OEM components, nullifies the warranty (you may avoid this consequence by using Nismo components; however, the upgrade components available from Nismo, may not achieve your power/ performance objective)… calculate an estimated cost for replacing a critical upgraded component which failed to compliment your overall power objective (at this point the warranty will not bail you out from unexpected failures due to non-OEM/non-compatible components interacting in the revised system setup.) once you setup and populate the spreadsheet. Then prepare another a separate-one containing the required mods to the Nismo (if indeed your power performance objectives, surpass that of an OEM upgraded stock Nismo) and compare the Sport Z vs the Nismo project (If well withing your Excel capability/ knowledge, merge the two spread sheets or just create one incorporating all the components creating any applicable formula to provide you with functional flexibility when changing data.)

Finally, develop a project-time-line depicting/accounting for the progresive implementation of the project and associated funding requirements for each phase. Recognize realistic limitations on time and $$$!

Note: Even if you install item-by-item as recommended...(following someone's proven build recomendations, there is no guaranty that your version may not fall short of performing as anticipated. Too many factors, such as tires/wheels, alignment specs, AT vs MT, Tunes and even upgraded Turbos, etc... tend to affect respective development/design versions, especially if objectives go beyond the 500hp threshold on a VTR30DDTT engine.

Consider that the selected base vehicle does becomes a laboratory subject; therefore, account for the time and aggravations/frustrations that each developmental path may create for you. Finally, account for the resale depreciation effect.

By the way, on a separate issue, it may be beneficial to read the article below to have factual understanding of the vehicle's genealogy and perhaps use the legacy info when structuring your modification/build plan! ...maybe even school "Tranzor" on posting with tactfulness!

https://www.motortrend.com/features/nissan-z-car-history-generations-specifications

Be well....

 

[Tranzor Z]

If you're going to be modifying it, get a Performance trim, it's the sweet spot to begin a street build. This is what I did...and I have a serious addiction/problem with modifying vehicles for going on 3 decades now... Before that it was Jet Skis, BMX bikes, and Ninjas... The Nismo trim is a sizable cost premium for not a lot of actual performance gain (and some creature comfort loss).

Honestly, check my sig and copy my mod list. This is the sweet spot for a street car on 93 pump. Next up in addition would be FlexFuel and slightly larger stockframe turbos.

The Z1 chassis braces along with Stillen swaybars go a long ways in stiffening the chassis and settling down the high-speed behavior. Add Eibach ProKit lowering springs if you want to reduce the wheel gap; a quality alignment is key regardless.

Fuel quality/brand makes a difference. Add a bottle of Redline Water lWetter to both coolant reservoirs.

This guy. Forget the rest.

 

[Who.Am.Eye.2716]

I went with Sport Z after adding up the minor differences between the Performance Z. Engine and trans (6sp or autotragic) is the same across all platforms, and FBO are identical with no extra power gain between the 3 trims.

Here is my reason why I went with a Sport Z.

I didnt need the heated power leather seats, the bigger infotainment, and the duckbill spoiler. I can swap out the cloth seats, adding an LSD, my own spoiler without having to fill in existing holes from the OEM spoiler, and upgraded suspension. And not having to sell the OEM stuff, or have it collect dust in the corner taking up space.

Seeing Nismo Nick sharing the '27 Z Nismo experience did make me rethink life owning one with a M/T. But, it will cost double for what I want to achieve with my '24 Sport Z M/T. That there took the Nismo off my list for good.

Final note: Stock for Stock, get the Nismo.

 

[FSUZ33]

There's lot of Z cars. If you do a search for 400Z you not only see the RZ34, you see people calling it the 400Z since it was rumored to be coming out as a direct successor to the 350Z and 370Z. You just lost what little cool points you had and got yourself blocked for being a troll.

I hope you decide to jump into a Z and share your journey.

That said, personally, I’d rather get banned here than be part of the group that calls it a ”400Z.” I know, a lot of people are using that term, but that doesn’t make it right. Yes, just “Z” can be confusing, but that’s because internet turds were calling it a fake name even before Nissan made public their dumb decision to drop the number for the first time in the history of the car. Only to be topped on the stupid scale by not putting a manual in the NISMO for 3 years.

imagine if Ford was developing a dorky electric wagon thing and the internet started saying it was going to be called a Mustang and it would have GT badges just like the slightly less ugly actual Mustang, and then that name stuck?! Oh wait, Ford actually did that. Nevermind.

 

[280driver]

Hey, I'm kind of falling in love with the new Z and I am thinking about getting a 2027 Nismo with stick.

I'm sure this is the best place to get some straight answers before I cut a check that may or may not have to be for $80k.

I know the Nismo option cleans up nearly all of the complaints about the platform's handling/braking, but if you price it out with all Nismo upgrades it rivals what I paid for my current toy.

Is it worth grabbing a sport edition instead, with manual, then going FBO, upgraded fuel, slightly upsized turbos (to prevent power drop off up top only), upgrading cooling, and a full aftermarket suspension upgrade? Or will that end up costing way more than just snagging a Nismo with all factory upgrades and then doing a turbo upsize and tune?

Also, what are the weakpoints of the engine and transmission and well the whole drivetrain, if I should I decide to go balls deep with power later?

Coming in ignorant here. Would greatly appreciate any input.

What‘s a 400Z?

 

[loki2191]

Nismo if you want a decent out of the box track weapon. However if you have time and resources and love the journey of building a personalized track car then Sport is the way to go. There really isn’t a perfect answer as we all have our own reasons for getting a Z. Don’t procrastinate and go out there and get yourself a “Z”, you won’t find a 400z anywhere Nissan doesn’t make that model .

 

[Imperial]

My personal 2 cents. If you absolutely love how the Nismo looks and may consider, even for just a moment, a Nismo conversion down the road if you end up with a Sport or Performance... just get the Nismo. The cost for a conversion is astronomical. Otherwise, no model is immune from the mod bug. Take it from someone that’s put in at least another 25K into his Nismo.