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VR30DDTT Cooling upgrades

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Thefunk

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I'd be more concerned with cooling with any kind of tune flash or non-flash piggy back. Which is the topic of this thread lol. I would think the engine as stock isn't designed for prolonged use in higher power ranges.
 

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lol I give up! You win! I’m done with this conversation! ???
Dude I am just trying to help you not blow up your new car based on things I have seen as a tuner for 10+ years. But its your car, do as you wish. If you decide to take a log and would like me to look it over, send it in a PM.

Sorry OP for the thread hijack! I will add that I would stay away from anything Mishimoto. There have been reports of it working worse than stock on a few different platforms. Derale is who I typically go with for oil cooler stuff, even if you have to retrofit one of their coolers in.
 
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Dude I am just trying to help you not blow up your new car based on things I have seen as a tuner for 10+ years. But its your car, do as you wish. If you decide to take a log and would like me to look it over, send it in a PM.

Sorry OP for the thread hijack! I will add that I would stay away from anything Mishimoto. There have been reports of it working worse than stock on a few different platforms. Derale is who I typically go with for oil cooler stuff, even if you have to retrofit one of their coolers in.
No worries duder. Tuning, extra HP, and cooling are still part of the thread (y)

Oil coolers specifically or anything from Mishimito? I found an AMS heat exchanger which is the thickest I could find, 40mm. But I also want to upgrade the engine cooler rad to a better one, one with maybe more fins, more pipes, and thicker core. I'll take a look at Derale coolers!
 

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Dude I am just trying to help you not blow up your new car based on things I have seen as a tuner for 10+ years. But its your car, do as you wish. If you decide to take a log and would like me to look it over, send it in a PM.

Sorry OP for the thread hijack! I will add that I would stay away from anything Mishimoto. There have been reports of it working worse than stock on a few different platforms. Derale is who I typically go with for oil cooler stuff, even if you have to retrofit one of their coolers in.
Its all good info, others will appreciate the info. Ive heard horror stories as well, its exactly why i only ever considered custom tuning. Lots of good custom remote tuners out there for our platform.
 

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lol I give up! You win! I’m done with this conversation! ???
Why are you getting defensive, he hasnt said anything incorrect.

Also, I would recommend reviewing the actual graphs straight from Burger. They specifically say they got 401.05hp final result on 93 octane lol.
 

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No worries duder. Tuning, extra HP, and cooling are still part of the thread (y)

Oil coolers specifically or anything from Mishimito? I found an AMS heat exchanger which is the thickest I could find, 40mm. But I also want to upgrade the engine cooler rad to a better one, one with maybe more fins, more pipes, and thicker core. I'll take a look at Derale coolers!
Pretty much all Mishimoto stuff. They have gone downhill these past couple years. Whatever cores they use now are not great, even though they are big. Pay the extra for AMS stuff. It actually does what they say it will do.
 
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Pretty much all Mishimoto stuff. They have gone downhill these past couple years. Whatever cores they use now are not great, even though they are big. Pay the extra for AMS stuff. It actually does what they say it will do.
PC building taught me pay more for better radiators and never look back ?

Checked AMS for engine coolers but they only have heat exchanger for the charged air system I guess. I saw their intercooler kit as well that's also on my list. Just have to find a better/thicker engine cooler rad and also upgraded oil cooler. I didn't see any coolers for the Z on Derale's website.
 
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Oil cooler and even radiator upgrade should be the last things you do.
To get your car running cooler, do (in order):
1. Heat Exchanger (AMS or Z1)
2. Intercoolers (AMS or Mishimoto)
3. Radiator tank (Nismo one releasing soon)
4. Radiator (whoever, effects will be limited - I'm speaking with PWR about an off-the-shelf solution)
5. Oil cooler (whoever, effects will be limited - I'm speaking with PWR about an off-the-shelf solution)

I've done a bit of work to mine now, and even from early runs the effects of heat soak on the dyno - about 5-10hp per run.

Also don't bother with brake upgrades until you've done pads, fluid and lines. Some big debates here in AU about brake fade due to heat, but the reality is the stock brake fluid and pads aren't up to spec.
 

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Got AMS Heat Exchanger and Intercoolers on order. Figured if im going to mess with airvac coolant refills, better off get it one and done. Oh yeah, and installing the Turbosmart BOV, at the same time.

After that, the Z will go for a proper dyno tune
 
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way too small. 9 row is the minimum I would go. 13 is ideal for track use.

most derale kits I have seen, are custom. It will have to be a manufacture based custom kit.

should be no reservoir on the factory system.
I think I'd have to request a custom rad then. I'm not welder/fabber lol. The in and outlets would have to match the existing rad.
 
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Got AMS Heat Exchanger and Intercoolers on order. Figured if im going to mess with airvac coolant refills, better off get it one and done. Oh yeah, and installing the Turbosmart BOV, at the same time.

After that, the Z will go for a proper dyno tune
That's my plan too. I want to get all the rads and intercoolers done in one job. I'm curious to see what whp I can make without a tune but better cooling plus the CAI.

Forgot about the trans cooler lol. That I'd like to upgrade as well.
 
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Oil cooler and even radiator upgrade should be the last things you do.
To get your car running cooler, do (in order):
1. Heat Exchanger (AMS or Z1)
2. Intercoolers (AMS or Mishimoto)
3. Radiator tank (Nismo one releasing soon)
4. Radiator (whoever, effects will be limited - I'm speaking with PWR about an off-the-shelf solution)
5. Oil cooler (whoever, effects will be limited - I'm speaking with PWR about an off-the-shelf solution)

I've done a bit of work to mine now, and even from early runs the effects of heat soak on the dyno - about 5-10hp per run.

Also don't bother with brake upgrades until you've done pads, fluid and lines. Some big debates here in AU about brake fade due to heat, but the reality is the stock brake fluid and pads aren't up to spec.
Since I'm new to auto work and this is a new car, I'm more likely to take my car to family owned shop that I trust for more complex part replacements. I want to do the all the coolers in one shot since the front bumper will only need to be removed once. What will take me days will take them a few hours.

I already received the two piece rotors from Z1 with steel lines. I've read that one piece rotors can warp easier and don't dissipate heat as well as two piece. It can't just be a gimmick right? Also definitely going to use better fluid and pads.
 

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Since I'm new to auto work and this is a new car, I'm more likely to take my car to family owned shop that I trust for more complex part replacements. I want to do the all the coolers in one shot since the front bumper will only need to be removed once. What will take me days will take them a few hours.

I already received the two piece rotors from Z1 with steel lines. I've read that one piece rotors can warp easier and don't dissipate heat as well as two piece. It can't just be a gimmick right? Also definitely going to use better fluid and pads.
My front bar has come off so many times, it takes my guys about 15 mins to get it off now.
IMHO if you have your heart set on big cooling upgrades, the heat exchanger and intercoolers will offer the biggest bang-for-buck.
Radiator and Oil cooler upgrades will not be noticed unless you are tracking hard and regularly. The heatsoak you have seen is a result of intake temperatures, not engine oil/water. It's pretty hot here in Australia... we are all about heat management and even I can't see any real world difference from radiator/oil cooler upgrades.

To be honest though, its the same with brakes. If you've bought the upgrade rotors now... well... so be it. You won't notice any difference in the real world or even light track duties. Rotors sell well because they look pretty behind your rims. Pads, lines and fluids can't be seen, but are what will stop you reliably and with confidence on a track.
2 piece rotors make zero difference to heat dissipation. The '2 piece' doesn't mean it has two rotor discs, it just means that the rotor discs and hub are separate pieces of metal. If the disc does warp (and haven't heard of this being an issue with stock brakes) then you can replace the disc section only. In reality you wouldn't do this anyway...

The only other reason you would go with 2 piece rotors is for the weight saving. Its not much, but because the hub can be a different material to the disc, it can be made lighter - and reducing unsprung mass is a thing...
 
 






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